Rocklands, second week

Time is passing fast here in Rocklands and every evening we reckon how many days left. We are in the middle of the trip and we still have some areas to visit, many projects to try and goals to achieve. After "King of limbs" I finally felt that my two previous months of training started to work well enough; not as I would, but It is obvious that the physical shape has higher and lower points in the graphic. I am feeling in a pretty good shape but for sure not as I was in "gandalf il grigio" or in Sweden. Last week I managed to put some ticks on my list doing a couple of problems I found really lovely. The first is "derailed" 8B, it looks like a ball of glass to squeeze and it has the first ascent signed by Daniel Woods. I watched this line in Progression film, I think four or five years ago, and I was pretty impressed by its slopers and its movements.I remember I said that I wanted to try it one day in my life and that it would have been a dream to see it and to be in a place like that. But everytime that I asked to my dad to go to Rocklands his answer was always doubtful because I was too young or things like that. He often explained me to have patience during my life, in the climbing side. When he saw me disappointed after a day of climbing he said me that with patience and no haste I would have climbed in south Africa or would have done some hard boulders around.For sure "derailed" is not the best line in the world, but last tuesday it was like a little dream for me to be under it; because I waited four years for it and there I was conscious about my dad’s words, probably he was right . Finally I could touch that sloper which was always present in my mind and never in my hand. After a fast warm up, my goal was under the sun, but I decided to try it a bit since the wind blew and it refreshed the holds. After a session of work I understood how to do the first move and the changing of feet which is probably the hardest part for me. At the end of the session I missed the last crimp from the bottom and my energies went down while the sun was heating up more and more. I took the best decision deciding to wait for the evening, when the shadow would have fallen. We went in another wall and I rested thinking about "derailed". In the late afternoon I started to go towards the line with Adrian but we took a halt to see the monkeys on a boulders. When we arrived it was already in the shadow and my motivation grew up fast. I did it on the first go. I’m really happy about this line, it is very significant for me and for my climbing journey.
The day later we went to Sassies. My friend max told me that the walking would have been really long and sandy  so I was ready to walk; or probably I just thought that I would have been ready. Fortunately the walking skipped. we managed to go up with the car until the highest parking and shorten the path to few minutes. The approach with the car was crazy, because we spent 15 mins to push it since it sank in the sands  so it was really hard getting there. During the day I flashed "Pinotage sds", a probable 7B+ and climbed "Shosholoza" 8A which is a well known line of two moves simply awesome. Also for Nils was a good day since He flashed his project "leap of faith", a hard jump with a scary fall. The two days after were rainy and we all got new skin and good energies for our projects. During these rainy moments boredom was high for all and we tried to fill our days with ping pong and poker tournament. On Saturday 20th, we woke up and surprisingly It was raining again, despite the positive forecast. Fortunately at 10 o'clock in the morning it stopped and some blue sky started to appear. We had many indecisions about where to go and we went on to ask ourselves which sector would have dried first. Probably the time for "sky" was arrived and in fact at midday the final decision was to go to Kleinfontein. I felt a bit of pressure because I knew that I wanted to have the line in a perfect conditions to attempt a possible flash go. We parked and a slight rain restarted. Anyway we went towards the project and when we were under this marvelous thing the azure of the sky started to appear again. I was a bit more relieved.I don't write here about the high beauty of the problem, since everyone knows about the perfection of this rig and the videos of today can explain well how pure and essential it is. In my mind the first move was a bit shorter, but when I was in front of it the move looks long with arms completely open. After the warm up I was ready to try. I brushed it and I was focus. This moment was often present in my mind and also my friends knew the possibilities about a good flash go. I took the first one and I lost my feet, I matched and I failed going to the last pinch. Shame for this, but the pressure immediately went down, letting me more quiet for the next tries. After two attempts on the last move I crushed on my second go and I was anyway happy to have done this super orange gem. Concerning the stupid grade system, my personal opinion made some discussions but for my size I thought that the grade can't honestly be higher than 8A+. I think that this kind of number doesn't matter as I always said and it seems ridiculous to put discussion (o start a discussion) about grades in front of a boulder. I think that whether it is 8B+ or 8A+ or 7C, this kind of valuations doesn't ruin in any case a perfect line as sky is.

"Sky" 8A+, Rocklands. Photo Nils Favre

Apart from the usual problems about numbers, the day after we finally went to Fortress where it is the line of "the vice" 8B. This line was put up by Thomas Willenberg fourteen years ago. Its true looking is for sure better than what it seems in the video and it counts 13 movements which made me pumpy before the easy exit. I was happy to have done also this line and I think it is a worthy one despite the long path to reach which made tired my thin legs.

"The vice" 8B, Rocklands. Photo Nils Favre

As every climbers can image the lines here are good and the rock too. But for me it is not the most impressive thing of this place since Fontainebleau has a better kind of sandstone. For my experience, Rocklands is the first  climbing place where there is not any kind of artificial noises and you can stay alone among the natural landscapes without seeing and hearing cars, airplanes, roads, cities and other human made stuff. In my opinion this is the best aspect of this place, the possibility to be alone in this marvelous scenery surrounded only by rocks and natural elements.
After Friday we will have still two weeks of climbing. for now I would like to say thanks to Nils who is taking me some really nice shots.

South Africa, First week

King of limbs 8B, Rocklnds. Photo Nils Favre

At the end of a travel lasted 29 hours , last monday evening I reached Rocklands. The first week of my trip is basically over and I decided to write something about these days in African landscapes. As I said, the journey was obviously long from Milan; it was my first flight out of the Europe. The halt in Dubai lasted almost nine hours and we sat in a jack daniel pub to have a dinner. Sunday night we took the second flight and Nils and Gulham got the upgrade to Business class and I had to settle for the economy one. Next morning we arrived in South Africa and Nils bound our pads above the car, since it was really small for all the luggage. The driving lasted about three hours from the airport to Clanwillian, the closest city to Rocklands. We passed through the grasslands which was rich of sheep or similar animals and in the evening we were exhausted so we decided to go to bed early to be in shape for the day after.

Fortunately, on Tuesday we had a couple of hours to climb here and we checked the first sector close to our home in pakhuys camping . Finally I was able to try a few lines which I desired for years. We tried "ray of light", "glading the waves like a dolphin" and "el corazon" where I missed the ascent touching the top on my second go. Nothing was climbed during these first hours, but I immediately understood that the place would have been worthy and it would have offered me some awesome landscapes and sick boulders. The day after we went to the pass, probably the most famous area of all Rocklands, where I was finally able to crash some problems like "nutsa" 7C+, "out of balance" 8A, "green Mamba" 8A and "caroline" 7C. In the first three lines I always missed the flash at the last move like a stupid and I climbed them in the second go. I was really hit by the beauty of Caroline, for sure the best problems climbed in this week. The rock represents a perfection of pinches and cracks, probably made by the water and these features made it really unique. I really liked also Green mamba, which has a really lovely sandstone at the beginning and cool moves at the end. For Thursday I planned a day of rest, but it is really hard in a place like this to have a day with no climbing. In fact, in the evening I reached Benoit in "witness the sickness" 8A, since it is one of his project for this trip. At the beginning I was strong to withstand this inviting problem but at the end I fall in its temptation. Fortunately I climbed it fastly and after two goes I was at the top with no additional dangerous troubles at my skin. On Friday the time for "moiste mooise" finally arrived and Nils and I were extremely syked to put our hands on it after long period of waiting and dreaming. We got warm in a crazy and marvelous wall, which has some easy lines and I’d like to have always such easy and beautiful problems to warm up). It deals of a slightly overhang whit a black slab before the topout, it was amazing being under it. After climbing the four lines on this wall we put the pads under one of the meanest problems which I would like to do, Moiste mooise. It was completely at the sun and with 23 degrees it looked hard. My skin got worse after few goes and I wasn't strong enough to do it. I did it splitted in two sequences twice, hoping to get an improvement the next session. The riverside sector is really particular and nowadays everything is burnt after the big summer fire in January. Nils told me that last year It wasn't so simple to find the lines, because a lot of bushes and trees hinder the path. Now the area is bare and the boulders are pretty visible going towards the zone. This zone has also a little river, which makes it a bit different than the other ones I saw so far and this stream was a bit useful to refresh my hands, since they was burining after the two hours trying Moiste Mooise. In the late afternoon I was under "black shadow", knowing that the ascent would have been quite hard for me, because I felt tired again. In fact I failed miserably at the end of the problem. after calling the day, I decided to take one/two days of rest and I started to think a wish problems list by the selection done during the first days. For sure I will come back to try "black shadow","el corazon" and "moiste mooise" and during the next days I would also like to check other lines to put them in the working list and to climb other easier stuff.

After the rest I felt quite better and today, after the warm up in a classic like "the rhino", I could climb in few attemptes "king of limbs" 8B, a cave with a big gaston move and a powerfull finish.

The first week is gone and I’m going to have other four ones to visit new places and try other sick sandstone lines :)
 

Green Mamba 8A, Rocklands. Photo Nils Favre

The rhino 7B,Rocklands. Photo Nils Favre

 

Last month

Here we go! Only few days miss for the second trip of 2013 and South Africa come closer and closer. I desired Rockland for long time, but during the last years my motivation started to go down. Too many climbers went there in last three years and it seems to be like a summer trend going to the south. Except this fact, I am sure about the beauty of the place, with pieces of orange sandstone scattered in every angle. Last winter Nils invite me to join with them in this experience and I decided to seize the opportunity to visit the famous paradise many climbers tell about. I have to admit my motivation before Sweden was still higher, because Scandinavia lands always inspired me a lot. Despite this, I am obviously Syked to check a place completely different under the environmental aspect, I guess everything will be barer and the colors of nature will be the opposite of the Swedish ones. Even if it is different, I think it is an awesome place with a great and spectacular natural contest.

Beside Rocklands desires, this last month was dedicated to training, looking for get a decent shape before leaving. The newest thing in my program was the hang exercises of Chris Webb Parson, which would have had to last 12 weeks but I had to modify it in a 10 weeks program for questions of time. This kind of sessions were pretty useful for me, and it seems they can work well. I feel like it is giving to me a little finger strength improvement which I have always needed . In addiction of these hangs, I also did few Pan Gullich sessions with new exercises like some crossing moves, and some abdominal working, which make body tension a bit stronger. During these two months of preparation (may + June) every week was accompanied with two or three hours of stretching and some climbing on the rock; or in the gym when the weather was negative. In the gym I tried to do three session of endurance-strength with boulders 16-18 moves long, meanwhile in June I returned to try normal boulders with few movements and some different features to try different kind of skills. 

In June I also climbed on the rock, not so frequently, but I had some session in Champorcher and Barbara refuge. The developing of new lines in Champorcher goes on and a bunch of problems was born in last month. The first one was "Murano", a line I checked the second time I was there in 2011. It deals of a small cave, brushed by Mazrio Nardi who also made a really good base on the ground in order to try it in a safety way. Last years I was syked to try this powerfull crimpy overhang, but my ascent seemed really hard since the first move is a big dynamic to a glassed crooked crimp which I never did, despite numerous work session. Fortunately the foot hold is large and I knew it would be possible one day in the future. After the ghost ship days my shape was still good and I decided to try again the sick cave. On May 31th Rudy and I reached the spot after the usual halt to buy a fresh sandwich. The temperature was fine, in fact I needed my jacket and in this natural hole I was freezing. Surprisingly after some attempts I grabbed the crimp and I keep a good position to continue this short sequence. It has three moves and I failed on the last one which is a long span to the final jug. I rested and I did it. I was happy, because it was a test of my shape about crimpy strength since last year I wasn't able of doing this first movement. Moreover a new line was there to be repeated. The name chosen is "Murano" due to the kind of rock that looks like glass and the crimp is a bit smooth. 

Last Monday, Rudy got a day off and we decided to climb again there with Marco. On the weather web site, it was forecasted a light rain in the afternoon, but it was wrong and the sunny day allowed us climbing until 6 o'clock in the evening. They decided to change our Champorcher routine, buying a sandwich near home, where the shopkeeper contained us asking about climbing. We arrived in Champorcher and the warming up took place on a boulder marked with "13" sign which is really fun to get an ideal body temperature. It has eight logical lines, but we often invent new sequences to have fun, since the holds have a good quality of rock. After climbing a bunch of lines and after having seen the normal crimpy snaps of Rudy, we moved toward "la V". It deals of a line around 7A, with strange mantle which my mates never tried. Marco did it after a couple of goes instead of Rudy who had hard times to feel the slopy lip. During his attempts I tried to figure out a lower part which seemed to offer good pinches. The squat start was already done years ago, but the ascent used another boulder for the foot which makes it really horrific. After two hours I found a good beta to avoid this bad way, so the lower climbing is possible without any other stone. I hope to come back before Rocklands to try it again. 

In the afternoon Rudy discovered a new cave. He called us shouting, so me and Marco ran to check it. It was really nice, orange rock and high quality grain. Motivated by this, we took the pad and we started to try this sick line. After some tries I climbed it from the bottom using some tricky to stay on this slopy sequence. For sure it will be present on the video I hope to edit in September/October. We are all happy about this day, because another new line was born and we called it "orange madness", probably around 7C+/8A. Moreover, In the evening other two new problems were born in a boulder discovered by Max days ago. A wall with black and white stripes which had three possible lines. The straight line, called "yellow fever" has a really strange dynamic and it could be around 7C I suppose. The second one, is a traverse that join into this problems, which doesn't add difficulty but fun moves on serpentine.

It is really nice for me seeing a boulder area in its developing and this fact is motivating because every new line can offer something special that didn't exist before. I will come back in Champorcher on this Saturday for trying the V project and then it will be time to leave. I feel in a pretty good shape, probably I trained a lot some finger skills but at the same time I haven't done enough in climbing gym. This fact probably has worsen other skills like some climbing dynamic movements or muscle tone question that climbing gym training can usually offer. For sure I will not focus only on the hardest boulders, But I would like to climb what inspires me more. I am syked to see this new place for my eyes; beyond climbing stuff I hope to love this place I have always imaged and to feel me in a paradise as some climbers tell.

Murano, Champorcher FA. Photo: Rudy Ceria

King of Pratacco, Champorcher FA (2011). Photo: Giulia Paoletti

Champorcher

The Ghost Ship - Champorcher

The arrival of spring is often associated with hard times to climb in good bouldering spots like Ticino and many others. For April, May and June I think there are still good areas where it is possible to climb with cold and to keep the motivation high to bear the summer's arrival in the lower lands. For this season, the spots where I would have liked to go were Val Bavona, Barbara refuge, Fionnay and Champorcher.

As always happen, it is really hard visiting all these places before the vernal temperature becomes summer. So I opted to climb in two of them so far,  by selecting on my projects list. Unfortunatly  the weather in Val bavona was really rainy and after a fast day up there, I decided to dedicated my energies to Champorcher and to do some First ascent experiences.

Some projects were in my mind and I was syked to climb on virgin rock. The first time I was in Champorcher two years ago, I saw a futuristic line on the overhanging  face of the parking prow. I saw some crooked holds and I imaged a line on this wall. After three scattered sessions in 2011 and 2012, this year my aim was to figure out a possible beta and to understand if it would have been possible for my abilities. On Saturday 11th May I went there with a bunch of good friends. The first time of the season in Champorcher it is always good: The place is nice, the torrent is still wide and spring days are often crispy, in fact the valley offers good natural place with great light. In this pleasant  contest the orange rock and the boulder caos stands out in all its beauty.

In the afternoon I started to work out a possible sequence of my big project. The years before I did the first three moves so I was curious to check the second part. At the end of the day every move, until the last jug, were done and I started to dream about its possibilities. I brushed a bit the exit, since it was the only missing  section and I went home really happy. Champorcher immediately gave us the wish to come back, getting profit by this low temperature of may. In the same day also a new line was put up, called "Il Salto del Corazza", a big move to a lip which requires a good arms lenght. 

Wednesday 23th. Conditions were good again, by being 1400 m on sea level Champorcher is really dry in these days, especially in this month where temperatures are under medium season values. Before warm up, I bound the rope on a pine and I brushed the exit of my goal. We climbed some stuff around the huge boulder, like a nice arete of 6C which I would advice and some lines on the back side of my project, around 7A/+ which were quite good to get ready. I attempted the top out previously brushed and I found a easy way to do it. Only one move missed and I was almost sure that it wouldn't have been so hard. I was completely wrong.

The session before I completed every move except the last one, where I had a good hold but I was totally open with my arms. I should have know that it was still a hard move, in fact from that open position I should have kept the swing with only one arm using the good hold, and then linking to top out. I tried this powerful move and I did it after some goes. thinking about the whole line, last move looked too aleatory and I knew it would have been too hard from the bottom. I started to work out the first part, trying to do some links.

The evening session was positive since I fell down on last move but at the same time I had the confirmation that it was too hard for the link. I made good progresses on the lower part but the final was still enigma. Thanks to pushing of my friend Gabri, I tried more times this last doubtful  sequence and I wasn't able of repeating  one arm action. I left the place conscious about my doubts and I knew that the next session would have been dedicated to figure out a different beta for the last piece of my puzzle.

Friday 24th. Rudy was off as every Friday and he was motivated to come with me up there. The evening before, we checked the weather web site and it promised a max of 8 degrees, sunny and dry. Once we arrived in the parking, the day seemed perfect as we expected. Blue sky, dry air and cold were really motivating  factors for both. Few things started to be really household, as the strong sound of the river and the moans of the cows on the background. After the usual warm up, Rudy climbed "antrace" a 7A on the same boulder and I started my session. After some work I understood a good way to replace that incredible last move with a low per cent of success. This was merit of a pair of old jet7, a kind of shoes whit a great toe hook which suited to my foot really well. The new way was a double toe hooks which permitted me to do the last swing with two hands and not with only one, basically a totally different foot sequence than the first one thought days before. I repeated the last part two times then I started to try it from the bottom and I failed high enough since my foot slipped on the first slopy crimp. I took a rest for all afternoon long.

Rudy tried "cochese night" a nice crimpy traverse situated on the right side of a grassed trail and engulfed by trees, which make this boulder completely in shadow. He liked it and he wants to come back soon. In the evening I had another valid tentative but I made a mistake and I failed before last move. I had to quit since my skin was a bit hurt and I couldn't feel the first crimp.

Two days later, on Sunday 26th I went there with Marco and I felt quite good since I rested well. We planned a halt in a little food shop before going up in the valley. This one was close and we went in a bar where we met a friend of us, Pero. His programs were to go to a cliff for rope climbing, but when he knew our destinations he changed his mind joining with us for a bouldering day. Same warm up of the previous three sessions and I put eight pads under the big wall. Some of them were left in a cave during this period of attempts.

Marco set the camera and I started. Everything went perfect until the last swing where I kept the body on and I did the exit. I was really glad, finally my vision of years before was done and this First ascent made me really joy for few minutes.  I loved this kind of experience and its climbing. My beta used every holds on that overhang and without one of them I wouldn't  have been able of doing. For this reason, I consider this sequence as one of the purest I have ever done. The name choosen was "The ghost Ship" and it might be a possibile 8B+ since I felt it harder than my previous boulders.

In the afternoon we moved again towards "cochese night", where Marco did fastly every move.  He started from the bottom and he missed the ascent on the mantle since the crimp was full of pine needles, postponing  the sure ascent on next time. Meanwhile I did the first ascend of another project which I called "calicot". It deals of a line brushed last year with Max, but really hard to attempt because temperature was too high. That day the conditions were quite good and my shape too and I took advantage by these facts. 

Champorcher starts to be an important bouldering spot of North west. The quality of rock is better than other places of the valley and there are almost 100 lines from 3th grade. Now other projects are waiting for a first ascent up there, but I would also like to go in other place like Fionnay or Barbara Refuge to change rock and environments.

The Ghost Ship FA, Champorcher. Photo Marco Pelle

The Ghost Ship FA, Champorcher. Photo Marco Pelle

Il Salto del Corazza FA, Champorcher. Photo Rudy Ceria

Training for summer

The first three months of this year have been set for training to get in a fine shape before my ten days in Sweden. The period of training worked well and in the middle of march I felt stronger than Dicember or January. I started to get in shape in the period of Gandalf il grigio and this feeling accompained me until the end of april. In Sweden, and during the few weeks later too, I felt good and agile as I wanted, in fact I was really glad for having climbed high quality stuff since this was my goal.

After april the 6^th I decided to take a month of rest or just climbing outdoor when it was possible. Rarely I had some fingerboard hangs.

The weather in the last weeks wasn’t so good. The first touch of spring seemed more like summer, in fact the medium season area in Aosta Valley were too hot, while the summer spots were still covered of snow.

I went once in Gaby with Rudy where we finished to brush a river arete.

I climbed it from the sit and he was close in the stand version. From the stand it has two moves on slopers which could be equal to 7A I though, while the sit adds two harder singles, really fun to do. The line remains on river sector, on the left of “Big Courier”.

Another time I was in Brione where Me,Marco and Aly tried to take the last freshness of the winter to grab the lovely Verzasca’s granite. In the morning I managed to do “the guilty of the hilti”, a Gaston line put up by Bernd Zangler. While in the afternoon I did the third ascent of “flash flood” on the river, just on the right of “ fake pamplemouse”. I climbed them both on second go from start, but in the first one I had to fight hard some tries to win the hard gaston move, which makes the hard part of the line. My back was destroyed the day after.

Marco showed me “Ballermaan” too, a stunning line with great rock. It deals of a compression boulder with a jump at the end where it is hard to keep the other hand on the slopy pinch. A really good line, probably one of the best in Brione around these grades, 7B/+.

Beyond these rock sessions, I climbed seldom until this week when I restarted training.

My next adventure will be in Rocklands this summer, from july the 7^th until August the 11^th.

My current aim is to get in a good shape before leaving, although I have just two month.

I have set a period of training where I would like to test some new stuff.

The first new thing in my program is Chris Webb Parsons hang advice, since his videos was on the web some weeks ago and it seemed really fun and useful. I think it could be worthy to try.

The second thing deals new exercises on PG, like some crossing moves or some changes on the previous exercises. As in the previous program, the first part will be all set in fingerboard, with three sessions per week (2 with hangs and one of Enchores). Over this, I will climb in the gym and on rock when it will be possible. While the second run the fingerboard will be linked on PG sessions. During All two months I also hope to get some rock climbing in Aosta valley and around, to climb new stuff for me and also to check how training works before SouthAfrica.

Flash Flood 8B, Brione. Photo: Alice Gariazzo

Sweden. First time in the north.

Baltic sea

Three months ago, My girlfriend and I decided to plan a little trip in the North to go in Scandivia’s landscapes and to do some bouldering.

After taking fly tickets, we had the certainty about the trip and I started to think many rocks and new places where to climb. The fact to have the possibility to climb in new spots is really motivating and the north Europe isn’t such a frequented area.

So a lot of stuff is new for our eyes, the sectors are unknown for us and this discovering is one of the most important things for my bouldering view.

The destination choosen was Vaestervik, a city three hours south of Stockolm where most part of lines are opened by Stefan Rasmussen. The Travel was really adventurous for me and Giulia since we just had a Guidebook from 27crags, but we didn’t know exactly where the boulders were. Sometimes we took some hours to reach a line and we got lost more times among the woods. The trip was made more adventurous by the climate, since the week before a big storm overran the north and we found a great wintry view . Every lake was iced and in many woods had 50-60 cm of snow upon the ground. Beside this, the weather was perfect. Every day was completely sunny and crispy, with temperatures between –2 until 4 degrees and really dry.

I wrote I little diary day by day.

Day 1

We woke up really early, 5.10 AM because flight time was at 10 AM From Bergamo. My dad carried us at the airport and we took a large advance to avoid delays, since we should have passed the critical point before Milan. We arrived in the airport and we had some troubles with our pads because the flight company didn’t want to consider them as normal bagage. They are completely mad, as pads were widely in the fair size and the day before I called them to be sure. After some insists there weren’t anything to do since the lady on check in didn’t want to change her mind and We had to pay a extra cost for them. We pass over this thing and we left thinking about Sweden. We arrived and we took our Toyota Yaris, driving From Nykoping towards Rumma, the place where we lived.

Just before arriving we stopped in Bjornblocket, the hourglass zone. We checked it and I was surprised by its beauty just as I thought. We arrived in Rumma and Immediately, the lady of our house, got out to give welcome us heartily and to show us the room.

We fastly left Bags and we went to Marstrand. We parked in the snow and we went up the hill to climb after the long trip. We found the boulders after some minutes but our feet were already wet and I realized that the Etnies shoes weren’t not suitable to those lands. After hard times in warm up I started to have my hands ready for climbing in this cave with a great granit. I decided to try “animal act”, a cool 8A+ I wanted to try for long time and I climbed it on my first try. Basically I flashed it but I previously climbed the 7A on the right, which has the easy exit in common. The climbing trip started well, I liked the spot, the rock and I felt in a really good shape. After some attempts on “goofhead variant” we went home tired.

Day 2

knowing Marstrand, we went there again. This time I had more clothes on and the warm up went better. On first try of the day I climbed goofhead variant and I moved the pad under “primitive” which starts stand and the sit was still a project. After some goes I climbed the upper part and I started to work the move in the sit. It looked hard and I wasn’t able to touch the pinch after the second hold. The time to “the hourglass” finally arrived and I was so syked. We arrived under it and I climbed “the office” a nice arete to the right. After this one I was ready. I knew the Hourglass would have been my style and I wanted to try it in a flash attempt. I felt really good, the conditions were perfect and my skin too. I put the pad and I touched more times the hold with chalk thinking well every kind of move. The videos were all printed in my mind and I tried. I sat and I knew the the first move would have been one of the hardest for me, and then it looked quite ok until the last two ones. When the line was opened the start used the low undercling and a high sidepull for the left hand. Apart a couple of ascents, I think the new start version was with the left hand in a lower sidepull. In this case every climber can start sitting and the shorter can start without double pads.

I did the first move and I tried to take better the second hold three times until I had it correctly. I went on, I pulled really hard with my right foot to the second move and I went into the compression section which passed pretty quietly, reaching the last hold before the dyno. There, I had a bit of indecision and I saw the lip really far. I don’t know how but I tried to jump as high as possible and I got the sloper in my hand. I couldn’t belive. I put my foot up over the edge I did the mantle which I brushed previously. I was really glad and satisfied. Concerning grade it is not simple to say in the flash go, in fact I was more for 8A+ than 8B proposed. But when I tried the single moves for the photos I wasn’t able to do some of them and I thought that it could be right. Hope to hear some opinions from other climbers who will climb it.

The Hourglass 8B, Bjornblocket. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Day 3

I opted to get a morning of rest or probably all day long. We went to check a really famous area called “falla taket” where it is situated “david or goliah”, a classic I wanted to try during those days. We left the car in the parking near the horse ranch and we walked into the wood. The place was great with nice trees and ground was cover by a lot of snow. I knew there was one km of path to reach the crag but I didnt know where it was. We got lost and after almost 2 hours of attempts we quitted without having seen any rocks. We went to Lysingsbadet, a sector on a hill really close to the camping where it is possible to look out the Baltic sea on the back side. Here there are 5 blocks with a lot of easy stuff until 7A+, a really good place for Giulia’s approach. She climbed some hours there, trying a slab and touching her first rock. In the late afternoon, I felt rested and we decided to check another sector called VO. The lines which I would have liked to try were “namaste” and “delirium” since I knew this last would have been dry. To reach the spot we walked on the ski track which was completely praticabile with skiing, a nice wintry scenery. I found “Namaste” in front of me completely dry but the mantle was covered by to snow, which made it impossible to try. We tried to go on to search “deliruim” but also in this case we weren’t able to find it and our feet were wet again.

We started to understand that it would have been a really adventurous trip whit a lot to discovered in unconfortable place. But this wasn’t so bad, even if a bit nervous though.

Giuly on her first rock in Lysingsbadet

 Day 4

It was time to go to the south of this bouldering area and the plans were to check “Solstadstrom” and “Tunablocket”, two sectors which have basically one block for each one. We arrived in the first one and the searching started. The snow made always hard the path but after one hour and half we reached it although it is close 150 meters to the parking. We seemed really stupid.

My goals were “awake the unkind”, a fine crimpy wall put up by Gu, and “le pacte des loups”.

At the first sight, the lines didn’t look possible with only two pads and I was disappointed, but since we were there it was worth to try at least. After a fast warm up I felt ready and the climate was perfect: Sunny, dry and cold. I tried the upper part of “awake the unkind” and I did it on 1^st try without pad’s problem. After some mins I climbed the whole line from the sit, which didn’t add a lot, In fact I had to try it flash from there but I was worried for the pads. I also climbed “le pacte des loups”,“all hope is gone” arete and then we moved towards “Tuna” where Stefan was waiting for us.

The boulder is really close to gravel road and I saw it just when I arrived. My goals for it were “Frost” an 8B established by Stefan and repeated by Gu. Unfortunatly a principal sidepull for the left hand was wet and I couldn’t use it to do try the original beta. I tried with another way, still more morpho and I did every move after one hour, except the last one. After my rest, also the last crimp started to drop since the top was covered by snow and the sun hit it. also this crimp wasn’t possible to use.

I figured out another beta, completely different by the FA and I couldn’t say if it is easier or harder. I fell on the last move with this sequence and I did after another rest time.

Before leaving, I climbed “hot tuna” a cool arete which has the start in common with Frost, and “king’s speech” a slighty overhanging wall completely red with one of the most compact granit I have ever touched. After some pics in this crazy places, we took the road to Rumma again.

Awake the unkind 8A, Solstadstrom. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Day 5

We were in Lysingsbadet in the morning, to get profit from the sun and the temperature were ok. Giulia climbed the slab tried two days before with a great effort in the mantle. Later she tried also another line which she failed before exit. In the afternoon I reached Stefan in Marstrand, with the intent to try the big project of “game of shadow”. It was covered by an icefall, probably with the picks would have been interesting.

We changed the plan and I tried again the sit of primitive. After some attempts really far to touch the holds, I started to understand the position to do this big span to the pinch. Stefan said me the beta tried by other climbers and I changed it a little bit until I finally grabbed the holds. The move is simply amazing and really particular. I was really glad to put up a new line in the north. I would have liked to try other projects there, But having just ten days I have preferred to dedicate my energy to classics before.

Primitive sds 8A+, Marstrand FA. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Day 6

Another perfect day under climate’s aspect. The sky was always clear and every day had an amazing friction as I have never seen before. The day for Fruberget came and I was really curious to check this zone. It is the biggest sector of the area, it counts about 90 lines and the rock looked really good from photos and videos. We left the car in the southern parking, near the baltic sea. Fruberget sector is really peculiar, it develops up and down between two hills. The wood is different in the south side, chestnuts and trees similar to swiss’s country. On the other side the wood is like Fontainebleau with conifers,moss and pines. From our guide the boulder’s sector seemed hard to understand in fact we spent one good hour to find “stora grotta” where there is “cave man” and “Fysyologi”. This last was one of my goals and the rock in this sector is probably the best around Vastervik. I climbed it and, although it is a real lowball, the moves are pretty fun and the rock is beautiful.

In the afternoon I wanted absolutely find “soulfly” a cave with brick pinches and good features. We left Fysyologi at half past one and we reached soulfly at five o’clock with a lot of nervous and the snow until the knees.

When I was under it I was fain to have find this line and it looked like a great one. I climbed it after some goes but when I come back home I checked some videos where climbers didn’t use the left vertical part of the cave for the feet and they went straight in the middle of the cave. so I came back the day after.

Fysyologi 7C, Fruberget. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Day 7

We came back to Fruberget and I climbed “soulfly”. Afterwards, Giulia tried a really good 6A but it looked hard and after one hour she quitted. She climbed for her second time outdoor and she had already occasion to climb on one of the best kind of rock I have ever seen, I was happy for her.

In the afternoon I checked again Falla taket but also this time I got lost.

Day 8

Rest and turism day. We woke up at seven o’clock in the mornig and we travel three hours towards Stockholm. After having visit a bit gamla island in the center, we walked for 4 km and we went to visit “houdini”. It is An awesome roof on another island really close to city center but at the same time completely isolated in the green near to the baltic sea. Sick place and cool line with a project on the back side, I hope to come back with climbing stuff to try it one day. We came back towards Gamla and then we went home again in the late evening.

Day 9

Last day in Sweden. Stefan was free to carry us to Falla taket and finally I could see this spot. When we arrived all the crag was covered by a strong stratum of ice and every exit was impossible. “david and Goliah” had the last hold totally in the ice and the high snow on the ground made it really lower than how it appears on the videos. All the spot is good and many lines to climb looked really fun. When I will come back one day I would obviously like to come in this classic place to try those problems.

The only one possible was “by the book” although the exit wasn’t available, it was possible standing up on the last slopery rail at the top, before the easy slab.

“by the book” is worthy one with a good sequence of moves. Body tension, strange holds and a knee lock  characterized my beta and after a long session I finally crushed it.

The morning was really cold, probably the coldest moment of the trip, with the spot completely in the shadow and some fresh wind. We in fact decided to leave it going in Lysingsbadet where Giulia got other three lines and fun moments of climbing.

In the late afternoon we went up to the north in Risebo, where I was attracted By “arcanum” an 8B opened by Gu which seemed quite good to check. The approach with the car was magical and we saw amazing natural place tipical of Scandinavia. The road is gravel and the forests close to it are really thick. When we parked the car we found Arcanum in front of us and for all the session there haven’t been any kind of noise, just natural silence which made that really awesome.

The rock on “Arcanum” is not the best, since it has a strong granit, but the line is really nice and the move to the crimp is great!

The principal crimp was a bit wet, but I dried it with a cloth and it stopped to drop. The problem was the mantle since there was the snow above the jug and it was a bit wet. I did the stand and on the exit I found some troubles but with the nails on the snow I was able to do it. So I knew it was possible and I climbed from the sit after few goes. Although I think that it is easier than the grade, I liked it and the forest around too.

We went home and we began to pack the bagages for the return.

 

Arcanum 8A, Risebo. Photo Giulia Paoletti

Day 10

We left early and we went to supermarket for a fast breakfast. We had to deliver our rental car at 1 o’clock so we would have had just two hours of climbing. We opted for Forsby, a sector on the way for the airport. The two hours planned for climbing became time to search some lines without any succes. We went to nykoping and we flew in the evening saying “bye bye” to Sweden.

Every return is obviously a bit malinconic. Sweden experience gave us so much, many natural adventures and really good granit to grab. I would like to link the site of our B&B close to Gamleby since you can live there economically and they are really kind. You can also find the link on sidebar. If someone is interested to go there, for sure this B&B is really nice.

http://www.bjoerkhyddan.net/en/welcome.html

In second way, thanks to Stefan who carried me to iced falla taket although he didn’t climb.

I have to say the biggest thanks to Giulia again to this fun time. I was impressed by her patience to search boulders and to stay ten days in cold lands. 

Risebo