Hi
everybody!
After this
period of festivity I write a blogspot to tell about Mithril and new projects
which I would like to try during this winter, although the temperatures in
these days seem more like vernal.
The fall in
Ticino was really empty of successes concerning my goals set at the end of the
summer, but the year ended beautifully for me. After the lines climbed in
Varazze and in Donnas I came back once to Cresciano to find a project to work.
This was Mithril, a little roof just below “la prou”, opened by Dave Graham
years ago.
 |
| Mithril 8B, Cresciano. photo: Adriano Ceria |
 |
| Mithril 8B, Cresciano. photo: Adriano Ceria |
It deals of a really powerful line, with three strong moves, which
make it 8B, and then a easy topout on a slab. The mantle is considered really
easy respect the moves before, but I am really shiftless and clumsy on that kind
of moves, in fact I felt it as hard as the previous ones. I tried it two years
ago but I did a fast session because the first move was too hard for me. This
winter I was psyked to come back and the first day which I put my hands on it,
the mantle was damp; so I decided to try the first part since it was completly
dry. At the end of the session every move was done, except the mantle which I
did in 2010 with fatigue. On friday the 28th I came back and all the
boulders were basically wet again. After two hours of sun and magic wind, they
became completly dry and climbable, in fact the motivation was high again. I
tried the mantle and surprisingly I did it quickly. For who doesn’t know
mithril, I write a little description of its great movements. The first one is
super cool, it starts with a crimp for the right hand, a pinch for the left and
with a little balance you have to grab the first crimp. After that, it requires
a lot of body tension whereas the second and the third move are two slaps with
the right hand on a slopery rail in hard compression. The fourth hard move is
the footwork to put the heel-hook on the edge,take this one with the left hand
and then doing the mantle.
After the
attempt on the topout, I tried it from the bottom and I fell at the end taking
the lip. I rested and I try to keep in a good shape my skin with the sandpaper,
since mithril ruins it a lot. The second go was the best one, I failed on the
mantle when my hand was upside down on the edge. I knew that I could miss it in
that point but I hoped that it wouldn’t be never happened. After that, my skin
was so bad, I tried it twice in the evening and I fell again at the end because
I touched the pad. The day was over and we went back home.
The day
after I was really jaded by it, but I would have liked to finish mihtril before
the year ended. So I took a weekend of resting and I went there on the last day
of 2012. I woke up in the morning and I felt that I hadn’t rested enough, in
fact when I reached Cresciano I was still weak. I was negative for the day, but
I tried. I warmed up in the square of “la nave va” and after a half an hour of
stretching I did some easy lines. The sensations were really bad. I climbed
twice “dove osano i cachi” and I felt that my skin wasn’t ready enough to try
mithril. When I walked down after the easy climbings, I saw mithril in front of
me and then I always gave a look to my skin shaking my head. I knew that I
would have had just one possible attempt and then I could have picked up the
pads and gone home. When I felt warm enough I moved under mithril and I brushed
the holds carefully. it was a mental battle. I obviously knew that I could have
done it, but I also knew that I would have had
just one go. I was so tense. I took some deep breaths and I started. I
climbed it very well in the first part and I felt my mind off by every other
though, I took the lip and I knew that I could have still failed it but I was
super focus on it. I took the crimp on the slab, I turned my hand and the
position was better than the other day. I did the mantle and I was so satisfied
for the mental fatigue which I felt the days before and the moments before the
climbing. The line didn’t give me a lot, it is not so logical, but the
movements are so lovely and I like them very much.
 |
| Mithril 8B, Cresciano. photo: Rudy Ceria |
 |
| Mithril 8B, Cresciano. photo: Rudy Ceria |
 |
| topout where I fell. photo: Rudy Ceria |
After mithril
me and my dad moved toward “kirk windstein”, a cool 8A which I waited for
trying it over three years because I wanted to attempt it in flash style. The
moment arrived and I put the pads under it. I missed it on the last move, I
don’t know why but for sure one of the causes was my frozen fingers, in fact
after 5 mins a strange green ball under my skin’s medium was born. Probably
there was a litlle necrosis of some skin cells. I stopped to climb and we went
to home putting an end to this climbing year.
The first
climbing day of 2013 took place in Donnas. Me and Giulia went there in the
afternoon on thursday the 3rd and my plans were to check the new
line of Andrea Zanone called “doomsday”. This part of Donnas is behind mucca
pazza’s sector and the path to reach is another one. After 25 mins of walking
we were there and we met Luca, a friend of mine who had just climbed doomsday.
I warmed up just on the right of this one since I saw a easy line with some
chalk. This boulder also has a possbile first part in a roof and I started to
figured out the beta because it hit me. It looked hard, but after some goes I
quitted and I move the pads under doomsday which I climbed on the third go.
Andrea said that it could be 7C+ and probably it could be correct, but we have
to wait for some repetitions to know it surely.
Later, me
and Luca tried again the project and we got the right beta to try it from the
bottom. It is not so easy and it is pretty cool. The first moves are quite
simple, then there is one a bit harder and then the crux move. After that, the
exit of this roof is a bit complicate because it isn’t the same of the easy
warming up boulder, it requires a footwork to stay on. I did every single move
and from the start I fell on the crux but I felt it possible. I hope to come
back really soon because it is really worthy.
On friday
the 4th, we went to varazze and I met two swiss guys which I knew
under “scarred for life”. One of them is Nils, which stayed in varazze for few
days and we decided to go to try alphacentauri 8B. He tried the stand start and
he did every move, I think that the next time he can do it. Instead I wanted to
understand the move of the sit start
whereas the last time I had little time. After some minutes they were done, I
had to link the two parts. I did many attempts but I always failed on the
second move of the stand bacause for me it is really hard since it requires a
lot of flexibility for the taller.
In the
evening, when we walked back to the car we passed close to “il tempo delle
favole” and the path goes on some rocks beside the river. Unfortunatly they
were really humid and the soil was really slippery. I walked with attention but
it wasn’t sufficient and I stumbled. I started to fall toward a pool of the
river and I don’t know how I was able to stop just before falling into it.
Unfortunatly my camera slipped from my pad and it went down into the puddle. I
shouted more times “SHIT!!”,strangely without blasphemes and I didn’t want to
belive at this unlucky fact.
If it will
be repairable, I hope to do the video of mithril and filming the new project in
Donnas. If I will have to buy another one, probably it will pass more time to
film them.
 |
| Doomsday 7C+, Donnas. photo: Giulia Paoletti |
 |
| project, Donnas. photo: Giulia Paoletti |
 |
| crux move of project, Donnas. photo: Giulia Paoletti |
 |
| Rudy on Minerva 6C, Varazze. photo: Giulia Paoletti |
Nessun commento:
Posta un commento