Hi there.
I write
some words about one of my latest bouldering adventures. This time, the topic
is a first ascent, probably my hardest one and my first one about a roof with
this kind of moves. The place is the “new” area of Donnas and the line is that
one I wrote on the last blog spot. I wanted to come back to finish the problem
in order to put the first ascent on this cool line in a place kept unknown. On
friday the 11th I went there with Marco,Aly and Rudy. It was a really good day for me.
In the morning we climbed just before the parking of the back sector and we warmed up on “profezia Maya”, a really nice pillar with brick pinches. Me and Marco climbed it fastly, thinking that it could be around 7A instead of 7A+, while Rudy worked it for one hour without any success, falling on the hardest part. In the first afternoon we took the long path toward the project and we stopped just below it, doing a fine line called “era nuova”. It deals of a traverse of 6C with pretty good holds which rudy flashed and Aly managed to do every single move. For sure, the next time she can crush it. Then I moved on the project. I reclimbed the six last moves twice, to get confidence since they are not so granted. I also tried the crux move, a compression with a crimp and a sidepull lip where the hard is keeping the swing and not touching the pad or the spotter. I did two failures on it and I imagined that it could be hard from the bottom since it adds six moves before the crux, although they are quite easy. I started positive and I did it on the first go from the start during this second day of work. When I squeezed the lip and I kept the swing, I knew that the hardest was done, but the exit last time gave me some troubles and I had to stay quiet. When I did the toput, I was so glad and cheerful to be at the top of this one, doing the first ascent and putting a sign in this area of Aosta’s Valley. The name choosen is “Global Warming”, thinking about the crazy temperatures of this winter, and also other reasons.
The grade like every time is really hard to propose. I felt it much harder than “klettermachine” or other 8A which I have climbed in this period and probably it could be also harder than some 8A+ so physical like “scarred for life high”,”touch by the devil” and others, so I thought that 8B could be correct and I hope that the first repeaters will give their honest opinions. Unfortunately, my camera is in reparation and I couldn’t make some shots or a video. I have just a photo with the toe hooks at the end, taken by the mobile.
In the morning we climbed just before the parking of the back sector and we warmed up on “profezia Maya”, a really nice pillar with brick pinches. Me and Marco climbed it fastly, thinking that it could be around 7A instead of 7A+, while Rudy worked it for one hour without any success, falling on the hardest part. In the first afternoon we took the long path toward the project and we stopped just below it, doing a fine line called “era nuova”. It deals of a traverse of 6C with pretty good holds which rudy flashed and Aly managed to do every single move. For sure, the next time she can crush it. Then I moved on the project. I reclimbed the six last moves twice, to get confidence since they are not so granted. I also tried the crux move, a compression with a crimp and a sidepull lip where the hard is keeping the swing and not touching the pad or the spotter. I did two failures on it and I imagined that it could be hard from the bottom since it adds six moves before the crux, although they are quite easy. I started positive and I did it on the first go from the start during this second day of work. When I squeezed the lip and I kept the swing, I knew that the hardest was done, but the exit last time gave me some troubles and I had to stay quiet. When I did the toput, I was so glad and cheerful to be at the top of this one, doing the first ascent and putting a sign in this area of Aosta’s Valley. The name choosen is “Global Warming”, thinking about the crazy temperatures of this winter, and also other reasons.
The grade like every time is really hard to propose. I felt it much harder than “klettermachine” or other 8A which I have climbed in this period and probably it could be also harder than some 8A+ so physical like “scarred for life high”,”touch by the devil” and others, so I thought that 8B could be correct and I hope that the first repeaters will give their honest opinions. Unfortunately, my camera is in reparation and I couldn’t make some shots or a video. I have just a photo with the toe hooks at the end, taken by the mobile.
By the way,
talking about my FAs, some of them are still unrepeated or still unattempted, I
hope that someone can do it to tell me if they are worthy or less.
This is a
short list of lines still unrepeated:
Powerslave 8A+ proposed Gran San Bernardo
Happy
birthday totò 7C+ proposed Chironico
Capitan
america 7C proposed Champorcher
El raton
matado 8A proposed Gaby
The big
courier 7C+
proposed Gaby
And now
global warming. If someone is interested in these ones and someone wants to get
some info about the place where they are situated, doesn’t esitate to contact
me!
 |
| global Warming, Donnas |
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