martedì 1 ottobre 2013

Training and some new photos



Hi everybody,

From the beginning of the month, training mode was on and the first sessions were quite hard and tiring. I previously set a program of three weeks, that was followed and completed for the most part of its period, by using fingerboard, pan gullich and climbing. Every week included two sessions of fingerboard, where I did double hands pull ups with overweight for half an hour/ one hour;  a single session of pan gullich, composed by seven different kind of exercises; three climbing days on the rock, which were replaced with gym climbing or PG during eventual rainy days; three hours of stretching  and two or three sessions of abdominals. Since it was almost 2 months that I hadn't trained constantly, The first two days were tiring and I tried to go on as secure as I can in order to avoid few eventual fingers injures. After ten days, my shape started magically to increase a bit, but it came back lower at the end of the program when I also got a bit of backache. This problem was probably due to the over weights I used and I should have had to pull up less kilos. 

Beyond this little drawback, the tiny wave of normal shape allowed me to send two good FA's in my "home area" named Champorcher, which has been a big source of good new problems for all the summer. The first one is  called "Zarmina", a stunning slopy holds sequence I brushed in August. The second line deals of "La V" project, which I tried for 6 full sessions failing over and over in the middle. It is absolutely weird and tricky, it has toe hooks before hands, heel hooks, dolphin mantle and it counts 11 movements despite its littleness. It was really funny being able to open it, because it required me a peculiar beta and some intensive work sessions to win its strangeness. The hardest single was not so severe if you reckon it as an individual move, but from the bottom it changed a lot and my hands had to be in perfect position to do it. The final solution came out discovering a blind foot hold which allowed me to stick the crux pinch and to reach the top. 2013 season offers us a bunch of good problems, especially in may, when the condition were prime and I could set new lines tried the year before. 

This blog spot is basically dedicated to share few photos about them, kindly taken by Gianluca Bosetti who was there for holiday. The little Portfolio includes "the ghost ship" a possible 8B+ to confirm, "paperella" 7C (2011), "Murano" 8B and "orange madness" 8A.

Enjoy it

The Ghost Ship 8B+ FA, Champorcher. Photo Gianluca Bosetti

The Ghost Ship 8B+ FA, Champorcher. Photo Gianluca Bosetti

Paperella 7C FA, Champorcher. Photo Gianluca Bosetti

 
Murano 8B FA, Champorcher. Photo Gianluca Bosetti

Murano 8B FA, Champorcher. Photo Gianluca Bosetti

Orange Madness 8A FA, Champorcher. Photo Gianluca Bosetti

Orange Madness 8A FA, Champorcher. Photo Gianluca Bosetti

Orange Madness 8A FA, Champorcher. Photo Gianluca Bosetti