Magic March! Yesterday was one of those day when the forest shows its best: 10/12 degrees, blue sky and little breeze. Certainly a pretty rare deal for this place! Took profit by all of this goodness to spent a full climbing day in the Apremont range once again! Jumped from easy ones to moderates, including this beauty called "Le Pilier du Desert" 💎 Love the black stars chasing here in the forest! ★ @adidasterrex @lasportivagram @flathold
Last picture from the archive about my recent trip in Red Rocks! This is a cool and tall boulder at the beginning of Gateway Canyon and probably one of my favorite looking lines in all the Calico basin! Some crumbly holds at the very top made me a bit scary on this ascent! Nice feeling though! Photo @alex_simone88
Heading back home after a climbing trip! It has been a while since the last time I had the typical nostalgic re-entry feeling! Even if I haven’t climbed as much, I loved to hang out with good friends as @nilsfavre, @alex_simone88 and @samdavisphoto. It was nice to get out of my comfort zone again, doing long hikes with heavy loads and reaching isolated boulders far from everything and everyone! That's the way to go in areas like Red Rocks, where quality totally replaces quantity! Love this place and I can’t wait to come back one day! 📷 by Nils on the way out from Oak Creek Canyon!
Last day of desert life here in US! Back to Europe tomorrow! Definitely not the best trip I have ever had, but I have anyway enjoyed it! Done some mileage in the last two days, testing my injury on some nice stuff around Calico Basin! It hurts a lot in most of the climbing styles, but it almost feels good if I don't bend the tip. Slopers and easy aretes should be fine for my first recovering period! See you next time Red Rocks! Thanks to @alex_simone88 for the photo!
Well, it has been a week since my last climbing day here Vegas. No matter when or where you are, bouldering is often a game between joys and frustrations. Last Tuesday was my third session on "The Nest", the famous testpiece put up by @dawoods89 in 2013. After the exhausting hike, I reached the boulder, surrounded by the lovely loneliness of First Creek Canyon. During the warm up I had some positive expectations and the first window opportunity was open. My beta for the crux includes a violent triple bump to stick the third slopy hold of the rail. Since the first day, that sloper has always rejected me. Right after the bump, I need to stay very low with the body, cross the right hand on a sidepull and finally make the last move to the safety jug up left (picture). I have been struggling a lot with this crossing because of my skin. I knew I needed a tough skin to do it, so after days of skin care I got what the boulder required. With all the positive vibes on my side, I quickly re-climbed the stand start. Then I made my first real go of the trip. The climbing went smooth until the triple bump. I couldn't get the sloper as I wanted so I fell on the comfortable tree-nest beneath the wall. I pulled on that hold just few seconds after, to simulate the real endurance conditions that the problem would have required me from the bottom. As soon as I moved my right hand I felt an awful pop from the deep of my medium left pulley. At first I couldn't tell anything since I was surprised and a bit shocked about my first finger snap. I hesitated to pull on the rock to check if it was very bad, but feeling pain twisting my water bottle I quickly realized I had to quit. Hard to tell if it's serious or if it is a pain which fade off with some days of rest. Sure this is not the best thing that could have happened in one of my favorite place in the world. But on a lighter and more positive note, I loved to be under this problem three years later my first check. Getting relatively close has meant a big step to me. This makes me very excited to come back one day. There are so many hidden gems I still want to climb in Red Rocks and I can’t wait to heal! 📷 @samdavisphoto
Still missing a proper feeling on the rock after all of these months spent at the gym. I am slowly washing the rust away, taking care about the small details which can make differences in rock climbing. The process is long, but it’s just a re-learning path I suppose. Made an enjoyable session on @carlodenali "Reflecting Pool" the other day, fighting the heat and sending a relative quick ascent! It was funny to note that my beta counts 8 hand moves using the same foothold all the way from the bottom to the top!! Let's see what else this trip can bring! Photo @nilsfavre #flatholdtrip @flathold @adidasterrex #livewithoutlimits @lasportivagram
Three years ago I went to check this Peter Lowe's project in Oak Creek Canyon. It was January 2014 and @nalle_hukkataival had recently made the first ascent. None of the boulders I had seen before made me fall in love like this one only did: amazing orange/beige shades, perfect texture, awesome holds and many other features which are outstanding. I unfortunately hadn't occasion to make any attempts that day, since I only had two pads and I felt very scary. So I left Red Rocks without even try it. Since that morning, I have seen tons of other boulders, but "Clogging the Feed" has always been the first in my mind. I knew that one day I would have made a trip back to Vegas and this line was the main reason to return. It was my favorite at that time and it still is the best to me, I thought. But yesterday I was even more excited because I had the real chance to put my hands on it. After a couple of top rope sessions, the game was finally on. The temperatures were very warm though, so I needed to cool down my skin every time before pulling. I made a couple of goes, falling in the middle where the crux involves a violent left hand move from a sloper to a slopy crimp. Then I reached a decent focus zone, finding myself with the hold in my left hand. I topped it out, enjoying an incredible view in the middle of the desert. Hard to tell, but after so many years of bouldering this could be the best problem I have ever done. I reckon it should be the 4th ascent after Nalle, Jimmy and Daniel, but please sign a comment if I forget someone who did it. Huge thanks to @nilsfavre for the perfect spot and this cool screenshot from our video! #flatholdtrip @flathold @adidasterrex @lasportivagram #travelling #bouldering #rockclimbing #outdoors #livewithoutlimits #redrocks
I was almost forgetting how great it feels to stand on the top of a boulder! What made this feeling even more special was the problem itself: @fred_nicole "Hineruage" (aka Deep Red), a seldom repeated line which has always been surrounded by a mystery halo! 😀 @adidasoutdoor @lasportivagram @flathold #bouldering #rockclimbing #outdoors #livewithoutlimits
Recovery is often a very slow process, with lot of ups and downs. Many parts are involved into this game like mental strength, constancy, motivation and trust. My elbow feels better day after day, week after week. Looking backward, I feel surprised about the improvements I have got since August. The road is still quite long, but I am sure it’s shorter and easier than months ago. All the hours of exercises and stretching are slowly killing the pain. Moreover, the first touch of winter is coming. Days are colder and drier and I can’t wait to be out again to touch some immaculate rock like this one in the picture! 📷 @triebelsphotography @adidasoutdoor @lasportivagram @flathold #livewithoutlimits #bouldering #rockclimbing #recovery
The last month has been very crucial for my elbow. I had three weeks of training and one week off. I could understand my injury much better than in the past and I still have a lot to learn about this recovery process. Elbow injury is very weird: most of the time it is frustrating, while other times it gives you motivation to keep improving and heal. I tried to analyze all the details while I was training, by seeing what is okay doing and what feels dangerous. With a consistent routine of specific elbow excercises and ice, I could work on some skills and not be bothered. The sort of things I can do now is actually limited, but it's certaintly better than nothing. For example I can't do pull ups or rock climbing, but I feel safe climbing at the gym or hanging on some crimps. Looking at the positive sides seems to be the good way to recover! 😀 Let's see what November can bring! #bouldering #training #recovery @lasportivagram @flathold @adidasoutdoor #livewithoutlimits
Leaving Melbourne, heading back North! Had great time during these 2 months trip, climbing some very nice problems, putting up a couple of new lines and enjoying the typical ups and downs of this weather! For sure it won't be the last time here in these lands and I will be hopefully back soon or later! It is now time for a summer break and to let the down jacket in the wardrobe for a while! Special thanks to Giulia, @giulia.paoletti.29, to have made this trip doable, to follow me among the thickest bushes or up on the steepest hills and, most important, to have looked after my elbow injury every single day from May till now. Hope for a quick recover during the long and warm Italian Summer!
Last day of good weather here in Australia, so last climbing moments of the trip! Felt totally tired and sore, but I could somehow give a touch of life back to "The Anvil" (V11), a good piece of rock first cleaned by @davekellermann and then put up by @paulrobinson87 almost one year ago! Happy to have grabbed this last souvenir from the sector I have visited most this season! Off to Melbourne in one day!
During the past few days, I had good time working on something far from my climbing style. Some of the lines I wanted to check this season have very tiny crimps, sharp texture and bad incut footholds on slightly overhanging walls. But sometimes, this tricky combo leads to some amazing problems that I simply can't resist. Here in the picture is one of those, "Survival of the Prettiest" (V12), always from @nalle_hukkataival. The photo just doesn't show the real beauty of the boulder: tall, proud and with a logical diagonal sequence of pockets, pinches and cracks all the way to the top! Hope for more climbs like this in the next weeks!
Good bye New Zealand! It has been awesome to meet you, despite the snow of the last week! I had great time with this bizarre weather, with the stunning landscapes of the island and, above all, with one of the weirdest and best climbing style I have ever experienced so far. See you next time! Photo @triebelsphotography #livewithoutlimits #bouldering @adidasoutdoor @lasportivagram @flathold
Climbing the third ascent of the beautiful "Little book of calm" (V12) a while ago in Flock Hill. Winter is now full effect here and the snow is making the things harder in many of the areas. Still 4 days left here in New Zealand, hoping for another day like this one in the picture with sun, cold and dry wind. Photo @triebelsphotography
Another shot from a gorgeous boulder here in New Zealand. Got the first ascent of this old @chris_sharma project, cleaned back in the days and named "King Line" project. Hard to disagree about the name: even if the shape is quite simple, the moves and the holds are surely some of the best around. Here it is the last dynamic move in the middle of the bloc, before getting into the last slab. Such a good moment standing on the top of this! Since I found it totally clean, the name obviously remains the original one :) Photo Tom Hoyle @adidasoutdoor @lasportivagram @flathold #livewithoutlimits #bouldering #rockclimbing #outdoors
I have been thinking about this prow since the first day of the trip, when Stuart carried me around Quantum field, one of the old school sector of the basin. The stunning prow is very visibile, logical and tall with a beautiful and smooth limestone on both sides. I quickly realized it was going to be one of those lines that only counts the holds you really need. I knew the game would have been fun and very technical as for the most part of the other lines in the area. The tall and slopy top out made the whole experience even tougher for me. Every single attempt has been enjoyable, every failure built a solid progress where just a little detail could make a big difference. Yesterday was one of those good moment where all the beauties of bouldering come together in a single, perfect and unforgettable flow. "Biotronic" is the name! @adidasoutdoor @flathold @lasportivagram #bouldering #rockclimbing #livewithoutlimits
Taking the first ascent of an amazing highball today at Flock hill. A powerful slopy-rails intro leads you up into a technical compression arete to finish on a delicate and precarious top out! Lovely problem in a lovely setting. "The Big Show" (V12). @adidasoutdoor @lasportivagram @flathold #livewithoutlimits #bouldering #rockclimbing #newzealand
Achilles Last Stand (V12), one of the classics from Castle Hill. Spent already four days in these beautiful lands; loads of good things to do, most of them very technical and weird to climb. @adidasoutdoor @lasportivagram @flathold #livewithoutlimits #bouldering #rockclimbing #castlehill #newzealand
Castle Hill was definitevely one of the most classic areas I still wanted to visit. It has been on my wish list for several years and it feels great to be here after an epic and long journey. Weather seems to be crazy with up and down as I expected, but we luckly climbed for 2 half days before the rainstroms made our pads fully wet. The climbing style is the most technical I have ever experienced: many times you have bad holds, small footholds and extremely balance depending moves. Can't wait to see more of this amazing place. Photo on the ultra classic "The Joker". @adidasoutdoor @lasportivagram @flathold #livewithoutlimits #bouldering #rockclimbing #outdoors
Crazy how time has flown from March till now. Balacing training and discovering/climbing is a precarious deal and there is never enough time to do both as you would like. Today another season in the valley has been filed and I am honestly glad to have seen several new lines taking life; like usual, some of those went down, while other ones keep remaining nice projects. The list is in fact already busy for the winter chapter and I feel lucky to have bunch of undone problems relatively close to home. This in the picture is one of the three I couldn't grab: an essential, funny and body tension requiring wall! Weather starts now to be warm and it is the right time for a chasing winter! @adidasoutdoor @lasportivagram @flathold #bouldering #rockclimbing #outdoors #livewithoutlimits
It has been a month and half since I started this balanced run of training, exploring, cleaning and climbing. It's not simple to keep this flow equally balanced, especially when the agenda is full of boulders to check and training sessions to do. This physical line is a little prize from yesterday, called "Fake Class". It is located in a deep and hidden cave which I found a couple of seasons ago, while I was hiking on the river. The muddy and wet landing make this sector a very gloomy place where to be. Definitily not the most cozy boulder around, but the wild atmosphere is many time a good deal. Still more than 2 weeks of this tricky balance ahead! Photo @andre_zedd @lasportivagram @peterbouldering @flathold #docrock #bouldering #rockclimbing #escalade #outdoors #italy
Weird to say, but months ago I revisited a boulder with bolts. I have always kept away from sport climbing and ropes; but last December I checked this wonderful arete, bolted by a friend of mine back in 2009. I first looked for a bouldering way, but I couldn't see myself climbing on such a tall wall. Maybe for someone, not for me. I hence dropped down, cleaning the holds and miming the hard moves. For the first time, I opted to make an exception and I somehow didn't reject the idea of a sport ascent. For me, climbing with rope and bolts feels definitively frustrating. I can't feel totally free and I somehow can't not express the climbing as it should be according to my vision. Due to the very high quality of the route, I anyway feel to make an exception and give me a chance. Last Saturday, I made my first attempts from the bottom, trying to get a decent mood with rope climbing. Feelings are now a quarrel of love and hate at the same time. I don't know how much longer this precarious balance can keep me excited. Until it goes, I will try to follow it. #bouldering #rockclimbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #escalade #outdoors