tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87316204319045531472024-03-12T10:14:03.472+01:00NICCOLO' CERIA climbing adventuresAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.comBlogger58125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-46740073828841164162017-11-12T18:59:00.000+01:002017-11-12T19:09:24.289+01:00Scandinavian Files - 39 days in the North<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUH5lRXxs9Opfi9-yjSN0Hzps1ftV5Tw_27YimsZLKNgxgwzqf2BJtkhGGRfeFdVn2eKv7jOcQLvssmVGhNlkAZWn8aQp2Rk6PItoQAD1hvVlIeO5uVpe1t-SGgLkgcyausBfT3fX-udo/s1600/Kuerzi170907-_DSR0399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUH5lRXxs9Opfi9-yjSN0Hzps1ftV5Tw_27YimsZLKNgxgwzqf2BJtkhGGRfeFdVn2eKv7jOcQLvssmVGhNlkAZWn8aQp2Rk6PItoQAD1hvVlIeO5uVpe1t-SGgLkgcyausBfT3fX-udo/s640/Kuerzi170907-_DSR0399.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Sandviksberget (NOR). Photo Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b>
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">The Journey</span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">More than
three years have passed since my last visit in Scandinavia. Once again, the
suggestive nature and the beautiful granite rocks of the North made me unable
to resist at their call. After some long planning days, I decided to make a
trip back leaving home by the end of August.<br />
This time I chose an alternative way to go: no flights, no rental cars and no pad-sizes restrictions
from inefficient and opportunist low cost companies. The first time I flew to
Sweden, Rayanair really kicked my ass with all of those bag regulations which
are never really clear and fixed. I thought I would have been way more flexible
driving my own car: I could move everywhere I wanted and I was free to carry
all the pads I needed.<br />
The fact to drive a car towards such a far and savage place, can easily delete
the major impact that you would have dropping out of a plane instead. During
the long journey of 4 days, I had time to adapt myself to the different light and
to cooler air.<br />
The impact has been smoothed thanks to the long drive and, once I got there,
despite the atmosphere was wild and a bit spooky, I was still in my comfort
zone.<br />
Apart from a silly mistake in Oslo, I didn’t miss any directions in my route
and I was glad to have made the entire journey by using just an atlas and my
personal paper notebook </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US"> <br />
For the entire length of the drive, I was lost inside my head and sunk into a
deep sense of solitude. <br />
This feeling of loneliness made this journey shorter and it featured my drive
with a loose flow of thoughts.<br />
Besides a handful of trite words with the owners of the guest houses, I haven’t
met any other people on my way and I was only led by the melodic sound of the
latest album of the Children of Bodom, which have been looped for almost 35
hours of drive.<b><i><o:p></o:p></i></b></span></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US">My goals<o:p></o:p></span></i></b><br />
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<span lang="EN-US">The preview
of every trip starts way before than the trip itself. I began to realize I want
to go to Norway several years ago, but only at the beginning of the last Summer
I saw the first window opportunity. <br />
My priority was to check Vingsand, a little fishermen’s helmet near the village
of Osen, located three hours North of Trondheim. <br />
My summertime has been filled up with several doubts, painful injuries and
other troubles which made me shaky about my choice. But then, in August, I
finally got a clear idea: I wanted to go there to do Shantaram, the famous and infamous
strength-endurance testpiece put up by Bernd Zangerl. <br />
The name of Shataram is probably correlated to the homonymous novel written by
Gregory David Roberts which I still have to read.<br />
Besides Shataram, I saw other bouldering pictures from Vingsand, but they were
not really inspiring to be honest. This made my Norway trip seem like a solo-mission
to climb a single boulder problem: it was of course a risky deal, but I
believed it was worthy to try. <br />
I knew I needed a good dose of patience: big efforts were for sure necessary to
climb it and having a wide dose of time could help me to deal with the weather
changing and the decadence of my skin. <br />
It was more than one year than I didn’t try something that hard. So the fact to
have just a big aim in my mind made me more relaxed to avoid the trap of the
“to-do” madness, which makes you feel in rush to climb things. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Despite
Shantaram was at the top of the list and I was open to invest a lot of time in
it, I didn’t want to run out of my 20-days stay. I thought 20 days would have
been enough, considering all the downs of the weather, the skin managing and
the resting time. If I would fail, I could always come back. <br />
After this window of time, I really cared to move towards Helsinki for my
second goal: The world classic Nalle Hukkataival’s <i>The Globalist</i>. <br />
Then, before coming back home, I wanted to stop in Vastervik with Rudy to check
all the new lines put up by the myth and good friend of mine Stefan Rasmussen. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US">Ups and Downs<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US">- Diamanten<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The first
UP regards <i>Diamanten</i>, a majestic
granite diamond put up by Nalle Hukkataival in 2011. <br />
I can’t hide I was really doubtful about this one: I wasn’t sure if my weak
finger would have borne the traumatic effort on the key-crimp. That hold seemed
to be way too awkward and painful to be used on such a steep angle. But I was
wrong </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US"><br />
The first day, half part of the line was soaking wet, but the hard sequence was
dry enough to pull. <br />
I was extremely excited to crimp such a nasty crimp without feeling any pain
after 6 month of suffering. That was actually one of the best feelings I had
during the whole trip. <br />
Everything was bright and promising as I hoped.<br />
I sent <i>Diamanten</i> on my second day.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Diamanten, Vingasand (NOR). Photo Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US">- Shantaram<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US">Shataram</span></i><span lang="EN-US"> obviously involved much more time and fatigue
to be achieved. <br />
Three sessions on it were long, tough, complex and very intensive for my
muscles. But above all, during most of the time I faced an apocalyptic wind and
some harsh climate. <br />
The third day the weather was on my side, presenting sunny vibes and a clear
sky: we could finally open our pads without any keepers. <br />
To be honest I thought it was too perfect: It’s hard when you wake up in such a
crispy day, but then you know you are still in the working process. So, considering
how rare it was to find that friction, I desired to have that weather for my
sending day. <br />
I mean, I was almost sure it was going to be another simple day in the office
working on sequences. But, once again, I misunderstood my body’ signs. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US"><br />
For several reasons my feelings switched to the positive side go after go. At
some point, I found a really interesting and smart beta for the middle part: Instead of climbing that
part normally, I focused myself in running away as quick as possible, keeping
energies for the sequences where I needed more precision and a longer hanging time.
Since then, everything started to work in a smoother way. <br />
This beta made me save skin quality, energies and core. Finally, noting this
progress, I got an ultra mental boost which replaced my physically energy drop.
<br />
When I set up for the last go I knew it would have been the last shot of the
day. And, that was probably the last day with that perfect friction. <br />
In my imagination, the window opportunity was very open before pulling. Somehow
I passed through that window and I reached the top!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8m9hNW6wbxObg617s2I0-arNGdSBcmNnACbnEf8ENUVf9Yu92o0gBKyRd-wDYj1y0tR6Xn8N_avE3xtBteziU72cAId6yTQkzKDRBDAI5WQxnBYOsi1eyaN35suzamvRtset-HsUDqdY/s1600/Kuerzi170908-_DX_5282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8m9hNW6wbxObg617s2I0-arNGdSBcmNnACbnEf8ENUVf9Yu92o0gBKyRd-wDYj1y0tR6Xn8N_avE3xtBteziU72cAId6yTQkzKDRBDAI5WQxnBYOsi1eyaN35suzamvRtset-HsUDqdY/s640/Kuerzi170908-_DX_5282.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Shantaram, Ramsoy (NOR). Photo Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US">- King Size</span></i></b><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unless you watched “<i>The Northern beast</i>”,
it is hard that you can bear <i>King Size</i>
in your mind. <br />
<i>King Size</i> is a 50 degrees overhanging
face, features by a brown/red rock which goes up for 11 meters. Fortunately to
me, the line cut it off towards left at 8/9 meters high. The prominence of the
wall is also amplified by the empty and large landing and by the thin and
raised hillside plateau on which it leans on. <br />
By the way, from that spot, you have a wide view on the fjords bay and you can
admire some of the best sunsets in Osen. <br />
For some reasons, I didn’t manage to check <i>King
Size</i> until the end of the trip. When I woke up one of the last mornings,
the forecast changed dramatically and that was going to be my unique and last
opportunity to do it. <br />
The second thing I found out later was that my rope was too short to bind it around
a solid tree. So I had to use two really tiny birches, planted into a thick,
but not safe, layer of moss. <br />
The moment of doing the anchor is usually filled up with dark feelings and scary
images. Few days before, some local climbers asked me if it was worthy to die
for King Size. Obviously I said yes. Who is going to die falling from an
highball??<br />
But then, while I was making the anchor around those two skinny birches, some
spooky thoughts began to plague my mind. How could the top rope checking be
actually scarier than the climbing itself? It felt ridiculous, but warring at
the same time. <br />
So I quickly removed the harness and I took care about the situation: I put a
little pad right at the bottom of the vertical line of the rope. Nothing really
changed, but that was enough to make me do the blind faith step into the
unaware. <br />
Not only the top rope session went safely, but even the ground up ascent was a
success! <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwzS2ZaryNh-yBhwS3JEnZBDWUsZkgcFvl7Jyg_D9AxHB6xav5ovIlsJ_DrK7D8hXhCkw5By08ugKnIXzwsZg_EQx31gTKoSNPi7I1jykY537aXr8-x8uLr1MEsX1tYtjiYmudtIRJwI/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+the+second+ascent+of+King+Size+7C%252B%252C+Vingsand+%2528NOR%2529.+Video+Still+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="754" data-original-width="1366" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwzS2ZaryNh-yBhwS3JEnZBDWUsZkgcFvl7Jyg_D9AxHB6xav5ovIlsJ_DrK7D8hXhCkw5By08ugKnIXzwsZg_EQx31gTKoSNPi7I1jykY537aXr8-x8uLr1MEsX1tYtjiYmudtIRJwI/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+the+second+ascent+of+King+Size+7C%252B%252C+Vingsand+%2528NOR%2529.+Video+Still+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">King Size, Vingsand (NOR)</span></td></tr>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b>
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">- The Globalist<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">What made <i>The</i> <i>Globalist</i>
so special to me, was not only the boulder itself, but the time which passed by
since the first time I realazied I wanted to do it. <br />
<i>Globalist</i> was one of my teenager’s
dreams and it took me a bit to make it real.<br />
I have been often wondering how the rock would have been, how the textures would
have felt and how beautiful the place around would have looked like. <br />
The magical part came when I could finally check it out in reality.<br />
I think that my solo approach towards <i>Globalist</i>
was probably even more special and emotional than the climbing itself. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwQhWLhiJ_T5qttXCs3N-vsOj7aLEZeJchfvaXUY5L2oFtJoOXQnioTJgIqjpm5FN2xDyGga6s_y3cix2Wvp234icqQd76zzWWNPUOXkTwh21VHrnnF8qbeZ-GbjuuOYHf4TAnGLckFsE/s1600/The+Globalist+8B%252B%252C+Sipoo+%2528FIN%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="886" data-original-width="1600" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwQhWLhiJ_T5qttXCs3N-vsOj7aLEZeJchfvaXUY5L2oFtJoOXQnioTJgIqjpm5FN2xDyGga6s_y3cix2Wvp234icqQd76zzWWNPUOXkTwh21VHrnnF8qbeZ-GbjuuOYHf4TAnGLckFsE/s640/The+Globalist+8B%252B%252C+Sipoo+%2528FIN%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">The Globalist, Sipoo (FIN)</span></td></tr>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b>
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">- The Down<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Seldom a
long trip is only made by bright moments. It is highly guaranteed that few
drops might happen at some point and you have to reckon them. I am not
negative, but I think this just a balanced rule of life.<br />
But be honest, I didn’t expected to get seriously injured once again after the
troubles I had in the last year.<br />
Trying one of the most legendary and hardest Scandinavia’s boulders, <i>Circus Elephant Syndrome</i>, I heard three noisy
pops all the way from my back until the top of my elbow. This happened on
the second move of the problem, where the body position is even too weird to be
described with words. <br />
<br />
To cut the story short, I couldn’t climb anymore after that.<br />
After 5 weeks of rest, I started to hang a little bit and now it is slowly
improving day by day with little steps. But it is still impossible to lock my
arm. <br />
These feedbacks make me feel it will take a while to be over, so I need to arm
myself with patience and positive vibes to heal it up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The RMI
doesn’t show any big issue in my muscles, labrums, joints, tendons or
ligaments, except for a little triceps tear which definitively doesn’t justify
the pops I heard and the pain I had for weeks. <br />
Doctors and physiotherapists say it could deal of a multiple nerve tear. <br />
Does any of you have any similar problems while climbing? <br />
If yes, some tips would be more than appreciated.</span><br />
<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b>
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">After the Pop</span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After the
injury, all the climbing games were definitively close. I have been browsing around
for one day until when the boredom started to kill me. <br />
I was lucky to be Helsinki. Despite I had a short stay in the city, my time was
enough to realize I was in a great place with awesome people. <br />
So it was time to do different activities and fill up the rest of my weekly
trip. <br />
I have been out with Ville and Thomas, two good friends of mine who filmed my
climbs in the first three days. <br />
We decided to make a little clip about what happened, so we kept filming doing some
interviews and making some visits: we checked out the classic sector of Myllis
and we also went to see the myth of the Lappnor project. <br />
One day, they carried me to the Bodom lake. This lake has a dark and grim story
behind: In the summer of 1960, three teenagers had been killed by an unknown slayer
while they were camping on the lake’ shores. Ville knew the exact and precise
spot where the tragedy took place and I took a sit there for a while. <br />
Trip ended on a sunny and warm Sunday among the best Helsinki’s tourist
attractions.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHqIdHcXU_-AL8sNoMZlFChk01dEgKKRsK_atEI7gjPo-e55QkDqfxyuRVnOqJ6jZ3e0kkRTOY9qoc_Vhp9gr3KFniDiOCjS0KNhzTneyLJYENFFTNAgY-hxpfp7LZC6jkg1bhrZKxKjY/s1600/20170922_111015-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1060" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHqIdHcXU_-AL8sNoMZlFChk01dEgKKRsK_atEI7gjPo-e55QkDqfxyuRVnOqJ6jZ3e0kkRTOY9qoc_Vhp9gr3KFniDiOCjS0KNhzTneyLJYENFFTNAgY-hxpfp7LZC6jkg1bhrZKxKjY/s400/20170922_111015-01.jpeg" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">SIlent night, Bodom Night. Photo Ville Kurru</span></td></tr>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b>
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">Final chapter <o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<b><i><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></i></b></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Despite the
pain was persisting like hell, I didn’t want to bail my brother at last for the Vastervik trip. <br />
In Vastervik I had my first climbing trip after my high school time and it is
where my traveling era has begun in 2013.<br />
The memories were definitively bittersweet: sometimes they were painful like
needles, other days they felt lighter and easier to face. While other times I
enjoyed to think about those days. <br />
We hooked up with Stefan Rasmussen who showed us all the new stuff. <br />
Many boulders popped out of the moss since my last visit and it was hard to
keep my hands into the pockets, but at least the tour gave me a high dose of
motivation to come back soon.<br />
Rudy was raging like a machine and he had a lot of time to dedicate at his
climbing. I envied him a lot, but I was happy to see him serene on the rock
after the troubles he faced in the last years. <br />
Being injured, I had not many tasks to do and I tried to shoot him a bit. Here
below you find a couple of our outcomes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Trip ended
at the beginning of October and Scandinavia became one of my top destinations
ever. <br />
The first goals are already set up for the next time: No injury first. Then, <i>Circus Elephant Syndrome.</i><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><i><br /></i></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifMIS1INWri0vX7RW4YUzN4iPnnyJh0e6RtcYpe31hKyuBxTU9pZdWQlNv2JfLaSt602rEd6j1wdRwInu3u1nUJp6HlU4umqr-Z_FFX2qqv3HHeF5EtgmT8t-w364G3fNM7OzYghtu7xc/s1600/Rudy+Ceria+on+an+unamed+problem+in+Vastervik+%2528SWE%2529.+Photo+Niccolo%2527+Ceria.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifMIS1INWri0vX7RW4YUzN4iPnnyJh0e6RtcYpe31hKyuBxTU9pZdWQlNv2JfLaSt602rEd6j1wdRwInu3u1nUJp6HlU4umqr-Z_FFX2qqv3HHeF5EtgmT8t-w364G3fNM7OzYghtu7xc/s640/Rudy+Ceria+on+an+unamed+problem+in+Vastervik+%2528SWE%2529.+Photo+Niccolo%2527+Ceria.jpeg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Rudy climbing in Fruberget (SWE)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkeysGoG_m-EvFVHYii1Nl1pXO94-xYrB9EqvvX5esmQD1uX-WN3g0VoSStNR9ATqZeLezvUUqjHj_vsr91dbXuGbLwGPQmtZO-vwwTUoS3hh0ChqCW8js3EPYN8Q7bWTyPxwN-5i_hVg/s1600/Rudy+Ceria+on+Punching+Tree+7A%252C+Vasdtervik+%2528SWE%2529.+Photo+Niccolo%2527+Ceria.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1510" data-original-width="966" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkeysGoG_m-EvFVHYii1Nl1pXO94-xYrB9EqvvX5esmQD1uX-WN3g0VoSStNR9ATqZeLezvUUqjHj_vsr91dbXuGbLwGPQmtZO-vwwTUoS3hh0ChqCW8js3EPYN8Q7bWTyPxwN-5i_hVg/s640/Rudy+Ceria+on+Punching+Tree+7A%252C+Vasdtervik+%2528SWE%2529.+Photo+Niccolo%2527+Ceria.jpeg" width="408" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Rudy climbing in Marstrand (SWE)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-76376204077221296162017-04-10T17:40:00.000+02:002017-04-10T17:53:42.057+02:00Wear and tear in the bouldering Mecca<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxmeikJUDCTD3yH1849bAhDqAovEjZ0iF1UkCMlpq8aceMXkYndHzR2sPbj-6x5JOlloF2baLpJQbyT3cItZvB0_RTYHxVhGLRZMC6BMfCKCiFBHMjWWN2QoH1urAN7XJD5280NgqayE/s1600/20170324_164920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxmeikJUDCTD3yH1849bAhDqAovEjZ0iF1UkCMlpq8aceMXkYndHzR2sPbj-6x5JOlloF2baLpJQbyT3cItZvB0_RTYHxVhGLRZMC6BMfCKCiFBHMjWWN2QoH1urAN7XJD5280NgqayE/s640/20170324_164920.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Immaculate and untouched sandstone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The last
three weeks here in Fontainebleau haven’t been only golden moments, good
climbing and pain au chocolat. For the first time I really felt that some
reflections about the future of bouldering and the current state of the holds
should be needed. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I have been
in the climbing scene since 14 years now, and almost 10 in the rock climbing
world. I also grew up in a gym like wide part of the new generation of kids
does nowadays. I must admit I haven’t been always perfect, pure and 100 %
ethically clean in what I have climbed so far. I made several mistakes during
the past and, still now, I am often learning new shades about this topic,
trying to go deeper and deeper into the knowledge of the good approach that a
rock climber needs. Hard to admit, but learning the unwritten laws of
bouldering might take a while. Ethics and respect are probably values you
acquire during a relatively long path. The learning process happens if you are
flexible to catch small details and if you are lucky enough to meet the few
climbers who still put passion and respect into the outdoor bouldering. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">All of this
is hard to match by these days, especially considering that even the most media
climbers aren’t often the most clean. In fact, most of the celebrities can’t be
taken as examples under this side. 10 years ago we were definitively living in
a different community, and I felt blessed to have know the last wave of this way
of living bouldering. It was somehow harder and less comfortable, but
definitively richer with dreams, magic and real values. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Rocks aren’t
stationary as we imagine. They changed from the smallest details to the biggest
chunk. Our short lives hide us the truth that the game we are playing is just a
matter of time. Everything we climb was dust and it will return to dust in the
future. This is the nature we belong to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">But, dramatically,
even in a shorter period of time, boulders can be altered. And certainly not
only for natural reasons.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Having put
up a decent numbers of lines, I could note how the holds change during the flow
of the seasons and how the holds can alter ascent after ascent. Even if it
deals of micro details, it’s rare that we can repeat the problem in the exact
and same state as the first ascentionist did. There are plenty of examples
around, especially on soft kinds of rock like sandstone or limestone. Boulders change
for natural reasons in long terms of time and for human being impact in a
shorter period of time. We can definitively manage our use, limiting the ruin
of the rock. So, we are somehow responsible of all of this deterioration
process.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">And seeing
how bouldering is getting more and more popular by these days, the state of the
rock will probably depend more and more on our behavior as the years roll on.
We are responsible of the heritage we have and protecting all of this should be
our first priority. It should, because apparently it is not what we are actually
doing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I walked
through many areas this time here in Font and it was, in some sort of ways, sad
and ridiculous to note how some holds currently are. If you would take few
steps into the Forest, you can count endless doses of tickmarks left and, most
impressive, touching some holds which are not the same anymore. Few times ago
climbers who haven’t any ethic didn’t brush the boulders at the end before
leaving. Now it seems that they don’t even use a brush for their whole session,
complaining about the conditions when they should only need to clean and take
care a bit more. Slopers, crimps and jugs are surrounded and covered by a
chalky layer which is pretty heinous to remove and it’s getting more and more into
a permanent state. And this is going to change completely the nature of the texture.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This is
probably due to the quantity of people
which is getting into the climbing world, and, more important, to the very low
qualities values that these people are bringing into the outdoor world. Hard to
say where the source of the issue is and even harder to imagine a possible solution to stop the loop and
restart from the beginning. It seems that the baton of the old Bleausards generations has been somehow lost for unknown reasons.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Bouldering is
becoming like business. Business that deals with personal egos, glory and certainty
not money for most cases.. I am pretty sure some climbers don’t even like
climbing anymore. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Having patience,
failing, falling, learning, improving, experiencing, respecting, being humble is
all now replaced with illusionary good performances, quick sending time and
loads of insta likes. It might be only an opinion of few, but we are getting into
a valueless climbing world.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Almost
nobody still cares about the only and simple rule we should follow which is the
one to impact as less as possible while we do bouldering. We are lucky to practice
an activity that only counts an handful of unwritten rules; we are free and
nobody catches us with a red card if we get wrong. We just need to preserve our
heritage in order to continue to enjoy our level of freedom and to respect all the other climbers who want to enjoy rock with
passion, sacrifices and efforts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Every of us
owns a brush. Use it. Carefully. For your performances, but even more to
limited the ruin of the rock we all love.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61LtaDrOPymJyTBi5ufJCEJoeljhYDAhlfPpTNyuyOJTl48h_WKCETbRMF7iPVYyeWgO9S4jehJq1gf3mFGHU16b_0Nh_3g-RGkWqBnCIG184mu7_ZQeakrBA7dFypT8fajHXsh-o1Fg/s1600/operation_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61LtaDrOPymJyTBi5ufJCEJoeljhYDAhlfPpTNyuyOJTl48h_WKCETbRMF7iPVYyeWgO9S4jehJq1gf3mFGHU16b_0Nh_3g-RGkWqBnCIG184mu7_ZQeakrBA7dFypT8fajHXsh-o1Fg/s640/operation_1.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tickmark for a foothold on "Digitale" in Bas Cuvier</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijT_KwEuc53-LzPwK-BcdGUOWPBDj9Q8Jdvd47HKm9ag3AHk3hVgV_ErymZQOKl5ZFfZS5PGzjSIVmK2PeDa7Y2FIEIORZntY7VJwPjV9-eKQsJEtR0No6GUo7aONHS76H1MxdgkpqZ7w/s1600/operation.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijT_KwEuc53-LzPwK-BcdGUOWPBDj9Q8Jdvd47HKm9ag3AHk3hVgV_ErymZQOKl5ZFfZS5PGzjSIVmK2PeDa7Y2FIEIORZntY7VJwPjV9-eKQsJEtR0No6GUo7aONHS76H1MxdgkpqZ7w/s640/operation.JPG" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Deforestation" in Rocher Du Cassepot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-62954617948418614642017-01-08T19:52:00.000+01:002017-03-23T15:03:26.890+01:002016 - Top 10 Problems<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b>- 10th. "Urban Cowboy",</b> Southern Italy. <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">FA Mauro Calibani</span></i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivV9INguzX0T5bh_6Y4d5OHzwOYS-es9WHHAKLSwUPT3QRgmWk9CRLZqc0dj5nMtkVsE2K2FapjXM5imXn_nSjus0fx-6Jb1UKVhDavTDP24Fd194tV4c1f7Lc2uc8fDp_v0Lv1mbExGw/s1600/UC.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivV9INguzX0T5bh_6Y4d5OHzwOYS-es9WHHAKLSwUPT3QRgmWk9CRLZqc0dj5nMtkVsE2K2FapjXM5imXn_nSjus0fx-6Jb1UKVhDavTDP24Fd194tV4c1f7Lc2uc8fDp_v0Lv1mbExGw/s640/UC.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Video Still</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>-9th. "The X Pinch",</b> Grampians (AUS). <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">FA Jimmy Webb</span></i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh57CTRgezlxTYzyUoQliXTeqgLzgE5Hyw2u93s2mCLVGZZM7rDiWeEjIXQcy6AnQIWZzc21LT6UoCryAXvyJZG0GGUbLXhJDppp1SjKDZ7n4PvlcpB8EQfLSQD6YGjupQVGYlRlU-SseE/s1600/The+X+pinch+V13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh57CTRgezlxTYzyUoQliXTeqgLzgE5Hyw2u93s2mCLVGZZM7rDiWeEjIXQcy6AnQIWZzc21LT6UoCryAXvyJZG0GGUbLXhJDppp1SjKDZ7n4PvlcpB8EQfLSQD6YGjupQVGYlRlU-SseE/s640/The+X+pinch+V13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>-8th. "Ghia",</b> Aosta Valley (ITA). <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">FA</span></i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8I4OLJF-FZbz5gax8-hn-vo4fqt0860c4QXrkHUsJNj83CGhyphenhypheniXyZVPBWuUFEcvG8xXSEU31oe6ydcbYW-iwbRdUcsPgmb_vn_UpxI_m8RtjU0bGZz0o8XTLw9FW5T9SAADj3zO9rPyU/s1600/Ghia.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8I4OLJF-FZbz5gax8-hn-vo4fqt0860c4QXrkHUsJNj83CGhyphenhypheniXyZVPBWuUFEcvG8xXSEU31oe6ydcbYW-iwbRdUcsPgmb_vn_UpxI_m8RtjU0bGZz0o8XTLw9FW5T9SAADj3zO9rPyU/s640/Ghia.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gabri on "Ghia". Video Still</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>-7th. "Biotronic",</b> Quantum Field (NZ)<i><span style="font-size: x-small;"> FA</span></i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTS8B1HIOPICaLWOFk4O2DKE8vlZ8hALbhb09I61rvVIEq7zE95OP8VZubpQIfL1LrkacCYxj-ceET9-_lPSwKbZb2miP3bmijxKk9fC0pyADukzSSzcSEkK4x779J05vKScT31KoT_UI/s1600/Bio+Direct+Project%252C+Castle+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTS8B1HIOPICaLWOFk4O2DKE8vlZ8hALbhb09I61rvVIEq7zE95OP8VZubpQIfL1LrkacCYxj-ceET9-_lPSwKbZb2miP3bmijxKk9fC0pyADukzSSzcSEkK4x779J05vKScT31KoT_UI/s640/Bio+Direct+Project%252C+Castle+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>-6th. "Passo Mambo",</b> Southern Italy. <span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>FA Mauro Calibani</i></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1-1pxJoo1udHhF3BtrXSic9yAluW2-h66MaHfx8jYt4F7dIcD2j1IJOZYEXalv6IWa04cSWZ39F5u-Hm7ZLRxbCY0_e81sTbTTtpvfTHTEsSfNVvD3qQv51X9c3hSlqGDhFeh9oNfO4/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Passo+Mambo+8A%252B%252C+Italy+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv1-1pxJoo1udHhF3BtrXSic9yAluW2-h66MaHfx8jYt4F7dIcD2j1IJOZYEXalv6IWa04cSWZ39F5u-Hm7ZLRxbCY0_e81sTbTTtpvfTHTEsSfNVvD3qQv51X9c3hSlqGDhFeh9oNfO4/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Passo+Mambo+8A%252B%252C+Italy+%25283%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo from my archive</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>-5th. "Geometrie Non Euclidee"</b>, Southern Italy. <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">FA</span></i><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_VEb4VBZ0LkSXxUoPjCXphphWPIl5kunE6G2_wpvU2IIIdLFEwWBlc7SD7Koihv9UF4eDyw_YtHaO1SsIsyUQF2UiD7n-QL114WuEHT-s9kvIfjpa7VVkDTkmsps7EUW6xc1sTeJf6Y/s1600/12736845_10208508124290215_1596207668_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl_VEb4VBZ0LkSXxUoPjCXphphWPIl5kunE6G2_wpvU2IIIdLFEwWBlc7SD7Koihv9UF4eDyw_YtHaO1SsIsyUQF2UiD7n-QL114WuEHT-s9kvIfjpa7VVkDTkmsps7EUW6xc1sTeJf6Y/s640/12736845_10208508124290215_1596207668_o.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The day when Marco and I discovered it!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>- 3rd. "King Line",</b> Flock Hill (NZ). <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">FA</span></i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSNH2zrK0-PHmExhlJl-wukbzxYM6kLjxYeSebQxYuhlodj_OXFB0bKyv19i1sbJcDiCgmv1gTho8qCrIaajmDfGS5QmeHbSjf9EbWem_YFR0QlvJbBEXz8jDkM_dT__dZJwX6VqT_7iY/s1600/First+ascent+of+King+Line+%2528V13%2529%252C+Flock+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Tom+Hoyle+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSNH2zrK0-PHmExhlJl-wukbzxYM6kLjxYeSebQxYuhlodj_OXFB0bKyv19i1sbJcDiCgmv1gTho8qCrIaajmDfGS5QmeHbSjf9EbWem_YFR0QlvJbBEXz8jDkM_dT__dZJwX6VqT_7iY/s640/First+ascent+of+King+Line+%2528V13%2529%252C+Flock+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Tom+Hoyle+%25282%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Tom Hoyle</td></tr>
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<b>- 3rd. "Golden Rule",</b> Grampians (AUS). <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">2nd asc. - FA Nalle Hukkataival</span></i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Charlotte Garden </td></tr>
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<b>- 2nd. "Survival of the Prettiest",</b> Grampians (AUS). <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">2nd asc. - FA Nalle Hukkataival</span></i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Simon Carter</td></tr>
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<b>- 1st. "The Big Show",</b> Flock Hill (NZ). <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">FA</span></i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpOXHd5PalzNt4jX9fQ9Ke4PMsQoOb0lnIKKRUnH0t04-SFCpG2g-Iw8hNfu8g5jMeutxiXwCCQ19Mb4mp0V8ouaUooMll9TEx23qPwdHv0I-6qN9aNwoGKm8TxLD91oyDJKIX9VthsEM/s1600/The+big+show+V12%252C+Flock+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpOXHd5PalzNt4jX9fQ9Ke4PMsQoOb0lnIKKRUnH0t04-SFCpG2g-Iw8hNfu8g5jMeutxiXwCCQ19Mb4mp0V8ouaUooMll9TEx23qPwdHv0I-6qN9aNwoGKm8TxLD91oyDJKIX9VthsEM/s640/The+big+show+V12%252C+Flock+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.jpeg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-63396858604786560202016-08-02T18:58:00.001+02:002016-08-02T19:01:36.264+02:00Down Under - Grampians<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIA6SzUEAVuBM-S6h4DMJttOq1Zpv0sJAslT-aLQRAxKTD5-MTVjTnkH14WDouuvpdxbe1sm9rdMUXO3DthKa0DzsjcNupQByGXzl0eNSCUBjgjmjVlwO3ms9gfM8qRE0TWNfREPlDQy4/s640/Giada+V12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Giada, Kindergarden (AUS). Photo Giulia Paoletti</span></td></tr>
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The
second half of the journey took part in the classic Grampians. After an
unforgettable limestone experience in Castle Hill, I was excited to come back
on sandstone. Since Australia was on the way back home, I took the opportunity
to make another trip in this land.</div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">This
time I was together with Giulia and we rented a cozy cabin in Wartook, instead
of staying in Stawell which is quite far away from most of the areas. Wartook
is in fact an awesome place where to stay: located quite close from the North
of the park, it is also reasonably handy for the Vic range in the South. Moreover,
this little hamlet is placed in the middle of the wildness, with kangaroos that
jump left and right in the backyard and the enjoyable sound of the birds which
hosts you every day. It was gorgeous to feel this Australian atmosphere right
next to the home door. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I chose to
come back to Australia for several reasons, but the main ones were two: checking
the Northern zones and climbing the new boulders in the South which have been
established last August. I was very excited to check the new stuff in the Vic
range.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">As
probably some of you know, most of the Northern areas had been closed during my
first visit in 2015. This was due to a fire which hit the Grampians the summer
before; then climbers, hikers and tourism needed to let the wild gain its balance
again. I hence couldn’t see most of the classic sectors like Project wall,
Hollow mountain and Kindergarten. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">Kindergarten
was actually the first I chose to check this year. It was ages that I wished to
climb on this wall and I couldn’t resist despite the thick mist of the first
morning. The rock is quite rough, but at the same time awesome: The texture
feels nice and the shades on the wall are beautiful: the right side of the wall
looks like a 3D painting drown ad sculpted by mother nature. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">Sad
but true, there aren’t any real boulders to climb: all the problems can’t top out
and it is similar to other sectors where you can only make drop-off or forced
connections. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">Afterwards,
we went to the famous Project wall, where I managed to sent the tall classic “Parallel
lines” V11 and made a reasonably quick work on the powerful benchmark “Mana”
V13. Both boulders have a gymnastic and funny style and, by the sunset, the Project
wall shows its best bright and orange shades! That was brilliant!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">Finally,
we saw the Hollow mountain cave, first for a check then for a climbing day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">That
area disappointed me a lot since there are tons of lines which aren’t very logic:
connections left and right, climbing loops and problems which start somewhere
and end in the middle of the roof. For this reason I chose to grab only a flash ascent of “Dead can’t
dance” V11, letting all the other lines aside.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">What
made me even more disappointed about The Northern Area was definitively the poor
ethical side of the community, especially seeing how the rock is dirty and
soiled. It wasn’t cool to see several climbers who often let the problems in
the craziest and dirtiest ways I have probably ever seen. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">Kindergarten
and Hollow Mountain cave don’t get rain all year long and you could imagine how
the rock and the holds could be. Despite the infinitive doses of tick marks, several
holds have a super wide and permanent chalky halo around. This halo is often a
white, thick and irremovable crust. Right above this, there is usually the
fresh chalk left from the previous climber. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">It
wasn’t always like that and obviously not all the people behaves with the same
approach, but that happened quite often. By the way, in these Northern sectors,
the sandstone has some wonderful bright orange and beige shades with some nice grippy
textures. It was a pity to see that most of the holds haven’t any of these
features anymore and the good rock is just part the blank side of the boulders.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">Coming
up from Castle Hill, where everyone has an impressively sense of respect
towards the rock, it wasn’t the most lovely thing to see. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">But
luckily, the wild and unknowing Victoria range in the South isn’t like that.
Down there, all the hikes are harder and most of the climbers doesn’t spend a
lot of time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3UxHkegMNidVjL5iauzKQESCBCBQjHKWEhpSvI83-jqdufz6W661umrOcpmxsjwE_GtnxTZ8Q_Gf3D8ZQJUV2lBguJ2ReVXNDJXcmDHYEymK2nt6ibkHi_yONb7-rul-HJR8eygz-RAg/s640/Mana+V13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+%25282%2529.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mana, Project wall (AUS). Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">This
side of the Grampians is basically unknown for the wide part of the community. The
paths are wild and covered by thick bushes. Sometimes they are also steep and
slippery and there isn’t any guidebook which can lead you into these areas. If
you put all of these elements together, it is clear that many climbers stay
away. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">In
the south, I could enjoy the real Australian bouldering and the previous trip
in 2015 helped me to keep the expectations a bit lower. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">It
was crazy to note how the rock was different from the North; not only because
of the natural rock conformation, but also because it hasn’t been ruined as
much as it was in the North. In fact most of the rock is still at its natural
statement. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">One
of the things I have learnt during these years is how much the climbers’ traffic
depends on the fame of the areas. Once you need to get information, find the
boulders into a wild zone or go for some unknown problems, a wide part of
climbers usually lose the interest in it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">That’s sad
and amazing at the same time; but it is honestly more amazing to me! This is
why the Southern zone should stay protected a bit longer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">The
Vic range was the place where I mostly wanted to go and where most of the
inspiring problems are located. The first of the list were “Trillion Dollar
Coin” and “Wave Swoop”, which have a totally different style from each other.
For a reason or another, I only had one single session on both, where I wasn’t
able to get the proper feeling. While you are on the trip you never really know
how the plans could roll and how the agenda might change. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">“Wave
Swoop” is very sharp, but definitively worthy. After a couple of goes I could
link it from one move in, but obviously all the problem is pressed into the
first action. A move which is quite far from my style and it involves a lot of things
that I am not used to do like having tough skin or climbing with stiff shoes. It
is also pretty hard and excited at the same time, but I somehow wasn’t ready to
invest a high dose of time for that. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">“Trillion
dollars coin” is different and harder than the wave in Mt. Fox. It deals of
another problem I removed, but also another problem I added for my next trip!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">Beside
these two lines, I really wished to see tons of other stuff but obviously I
hadn’t enough energies and time to check all of them. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">“Survival
of the Prettiest” and “Golden Rule” have been definitively the best ones I have
climbed. Not only from the trip, since they can probably be among the coolest
ever. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">The
end came always quicker than what you usually want and I unfortunately had an
annoying heel injury for the last part. I think it should have been bizarre
seeing me limping with two pads, among the bush and damning every step I did. I
could anyway stay positive, enjoying the rest of the days out (despite the
hikes, obviously </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US"> ). <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormalCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US">This
last section have been spent upon a beautiful hill, trying a super hard and
amazing piece of rock called “The stepping stone”. One of the hold on Stepping
stone is in my opinion a contender for the best pinch in the Grampians and the
rock quality stands out from all the rest: This made me falling in love very
quickly. Beside the rock and the climbing which are awesome, It is also located
in an amazing area. Well, you might probably don’t like the path to get there,
but once you reach the edge of the hill, the location is stunning and it has
been good to spend four days feeling out of the real world. The problem is
hard, hard and hard, but definitively enjoyable! On the last day I also got
some progresses, but one move was still missing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">There was
nothing I desired more than grabbing that pinch, but at the end I couldn’t. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I Hope to
come back stronger one day, both to try it again and to check all the other scattered
gems of the South. See you next time OZ! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKlTLLF1lfyU3Fkr5qxOZ2JtcwyV941HA11MTeTgHFQO8r2Req8bQyHDr8aCSMV9h2sJ8FZ3UyjkKMFqjfpS9OH4jGqvBnh-wtvRRRR8WFrmwidOGprJMRw961fNgQsZqrvshiYR2sTo/s1600/Golden+Rules+V12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKlTLLF1lfyU3Fkr5qxOZ2JtcwyV941HA11MTeTgHFQO8r2Req8bQyHDr8aCSMV9h2sJ8FZ3UyjkKMFqjfpS9OH4jGqvBnh-wtvRRRR8WFrmwidOGprJMRw961fNgQsZqrvshiYR2sTo/s640/Golden+Rules+V12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Golden Rule, Australia.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjQBZ0a873pQ29a80BBIoeqpaB1ZrL4XWTNl7LTHNQUzmSvesB4i3xH5jg_JbGkp3yaCl1i7uyUkCRGOH8ccEfuw1PXFMBJ6hiDdgezqhV-sAUPEeEoV6tNGTquVYFR38_q978qSXR-7Q/s1600/Survival+of+the+Prettiest+V12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529..JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjQBZ0a873pQ29a80BBIoeqpaB1ZrL4XWTNl7LTHNQUzmSvesB4i3xH5jg_JbGkp3yaCl1i7uyUkCRGOH8ccEfuw1PXFMBJ6hiDdgezqhV-sAUPEeEoV6tNGTquVYFR38_q978qSXR-7Q/s640/Survival+of+the+Prettiest+V12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529..JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Survival of the prettiest, Australia.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyAnvRs6Rl-ODvQ49rPWUL_24VBwqUISYEda-PXn6sXNIAYRwFL_Y58YN5nJ9TzGjQ2Dy9PM-3QgQcOZwoJzLdzWS5ha3eCda6y0I15Ptog0lGVtY7vDULA6gS323poW1tPr2C7QI3S_8/s1600/The+X+pinch+V13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyAnvRs6Rl-ODvQ49rPWUL_24VBwqUISYEda-PXn6sXNIAYRwFL_Y58YN5nJ9TzGjQ2Dy9PM-3QgQcOZwoJzLdzWS5ha3eCda6y0I15Ptog0lGVtY7vDULA6gS323poW1tPr2C7QI3S_8/s640/The+X+pinch+V13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The X pinch, Australia. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-60292472091228900362016-07-07T08:18:00.001+02:002016-07-07T08:18:56.623+02:00Down Under - Castle Hill<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5qzUxt1-SkSzmc4RKpYNqe_hPZ4j-9mRZmac4-J0lizoAgsdHqY6PuY90398hDCcgqGNZU_ktCQ9uFhzuDitWfKVht2KcSnFAAomgxh_c4c3YM75OImTso6IyOQ_J_M36hiLB_xKQTM/s1600/Castle+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Niccolo%2527+Ceria.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP5qzUxt1-SkSzmc4RKpYNqe_hPZ4j-9mRZmac4-J0lizoAgsdHqY6PuY90398hDCcgqGNZU_ktCQ9uFhzuDitWfKVht2KcSnFAAomgxh_c4c3YM75OImTso6IyOQ_J_M36hiLB_xKQTM/s640/Castle+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Niccolo%2527+Ceria.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Spittle Hill (NZ).</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">I still can’t believe
I have been bouldering in New Zealand last May. Looking at the map, at the places
where I have gone to, it feels awesome to have visited several areas which were
only utopia in the past. I still remember myself being in front of the screen,
watching climbing videos for hours at the age of 12. I wondered if some day I
could have put my hands on Mandala, Shosholooza or many other lines that the
Big Up Production could show. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Obviously I couldn’t miss the Big Game film, which
made me dream about Castle Hill. Maybe one day, I said, with my dad laughing
and kidding. We both knew it would have been a trip too ambitious to realize. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Then, last May the 8<sup>th</sup>, I found myself
in front of the gate, waiting for a flight to Christchurch. I couldn’t even remember
how this experience would have been imagined
back in the years. Since everything was
happening very quickly, it was hard to
realize where I was truly going to. In fact, after three weeks of bouldering in
Castle Hill, it was time to leave again. During the outbound flight I could
watch the whole Castle Hill basin rolling away from above. There, more than
every other time, I could finally realize how special it was being in New
Zealand. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">I don’t want to tell or describe the areas too
much in the details. I opted to chose four boulders which has been more special
than the other ones during this trip. Every boulder matches with unique emotions/feelings
and obviously every line has its own story. So these have been my four top
moments on the island.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US">The Big Show (Flock
Hill) - FA<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Before going to NZ, I
spent lots of hours cleaning new boulders, both in Basilicata and Aosta Valley.
In some days I was lucky to find gold, other days I was even luckier to climb some
of these gorgeous projects. But I must confess I wasn’t able to climb any super
hard projects in the first months of 2016.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"> I was honestly satisfied about the first half
of the year, since I could establish a couple of stunners I was searching for a
very long time. It was more like a gems haunt, than a bouldering life strictly connected to the hard problems.
I knew I was going great about the quality aspect, but for sure, I wasn’t doing
the best performances ever. Comparing
2015 to 2016, it was actually a fail in terms of numbers. I first didn’t
care too much about this, but in some days this aspect started to build in me some
pressures. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">I admit I felt ridiculous having these doubts.
First of all I didn’t realize from where this little pressure could come from.
I was totally okay and proud about what I was doing, but knowing that most of community
is only fascinated by hard climbs, I somehow disagreed with my inner voice. I
couldn’t catch if it was because I wasn’t climbing as hard as before, or simply
because I felt I must do hard lines. In the second case, it would have been more like a wraith pressure coming from external
factors.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">The big show
definitively didn’t change my inner statement. Rather, it probably gave me more
push to stay on my current side, to follow my continue energy, doing new lines
and just thinking about the beauty of the rock. At least it gave me the
feedback I was doing what was really nice to me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Even this time, any hard ascent would have happened.
But on the other hand, I fall in love with what I was doing: its beauty seduced
me totally.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">During that day in Flock Hill, I was somehow troubled
and negative. After a long and easy warm up for my elbow injury, I moved to the
boulder to find a proper place to bind the rope. This is usually a crucial and heinous
point of the day, since I don’t like the gear and the anchor’s procedures. After
spending the usual time being nervous for these, I found a stone where to tie
the rope. I wasn’t totally safe, so I asked to Giulia to pull the other side of
the rope and the stone didn’t move. So, it was okay after all. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Once hanged on the rope, I could realize I
would have never tried it within that day: I was scary even looking down. I was
really insecure and I couldn’t visualize myself on the upper moves, 6 meters
high off the ground, with 3 pads and a scary girl at the bottom. But, almost unconsciously, I forced myself to
put chalk on giving it a far touch of hope. Before seeing the top section, I thought I could
have sent this project pretty quickly; but at that point all my certainties
were falling apart and I needed to get into reality soon. Anything wasn’t working
well, everything felt harder than what I thought here in NZ: the top outs, the
style, tie the ropes, the hikes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"> I went for a second top rope go and I begun to
hang on the holds, although I kept to feel scary. Since the negative sense was eroding
me, I realized I needed help, so I started a long chat with Giulia. She usually
helps me a lot in these situations, where I can only see the black side of life.
She could find a touch of positive and she shined me that the things weren’t rolling
as bad as I thought. I needed patience, she supposed. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">That chat gave me a huge help. In fact, the
third top-rope session made me get clearer ideas and I was also able to link
several moves together, being scary still. I had to face I had a relevant
changing after talking with her. I took another break time, where I kept
talking about the situation and the feelings which were getting better. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Despite none of us was telling, it almost
seemed I was thinking about a go from the bottom soon. We looked at each other
and we both knew it was too early for that. I still had a couple of doubts in
the upper part, but I opted to skip a further attempt from above. We barely set
our three crash pads. I was trusting in her spotting as I had never done before,
I breath and I approached towards the starting holds. If I would have failed it
would have been a big fall, for sure. But if not, it would have been probably
one of the best climbing moment in my carrier. I took the risk and I turned my
mind off. After few moves I could feel the right flow coming up. The climb is consistent
all the way to the top, but the more I climbed the more I could trust me. I
reached the no fall zone where a precarious smear got me scary. That foothold
was very high, slippery and small. I pushed my speedster on to it, trusting as
much as I could. I reached the mantle and I topped it out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">The Big Show was definitively one of my
favorite climbing moment ever. I went down and I looked at both Giulia and the
boulder. I couldn’t even image this happy ending few hours before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmGSkQfypFQNA2IFQFCLGybH_ctfcquqLH1pm-sjnD8uAPUatTcikdQfDRDwNOiPCMNmjJX3fpaAumETzeZrAEhkG0kgIGlhpv0SLM5f7mvthzY8Yg7m-jc_UiCS2iu83gp2pjxUCL6Q/s1600/20160519_154636-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQmGSkQfypFQNA2IFQFCLGybH_ctfcquqLH1pm-sjnD8uAPUatTcikdQfDRDwNOiPCMNmjJX3fpaAumETzeZrAEhkG0kgIGlhpv0SLM5f7mvthzY8Yg7m-jc_UiCS2iu83gp2pjxUCL6Q/s640/20160519_154636-01.jpeg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">The Big Show FA, Flock Hill (NZ).</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Biotronic (Quantum field) - FA<sup><o:p></o:p></sup></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">An exception in the area. A contender for the
steepest<sup> </sup>boulder of the basin and this could say a lot, considering
that the other contenders might be a couple, no more. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Biotronic has been
very important for my trip, my season and probably for my climbing life in
general. It is rare to find a hard project to work, with only the holds you
need, with compact rock and, more important, something you can enjoy from the
first go until the last one. If you also consider it might be one of the best
line of the area, all the feelings were going to be positive this time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Biotronic could summarize all the emotions of
bouldering in a full and single and perfect package. It is very hard to describe the tons of
aspects and features I constantly look for in bouldering. Biotronic had, for
most part of the features, very high values and it could keep me enjoy the
process despite I couldn’t catch one of the move after three long sessions. That move was hard, balancing and very tricky
to me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">When the move finally happened, it felt easier
than what I excepted. I can’t tell how happy I was to have figured out such a nice
move where the success was made by micro details. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">The day later I came back and I quickly repeated
the move after few goes. There were very positive vibes that day in the air, but
the high upper slab started to worry me more than in every other session. I
knew I was close to link it all together, but I couldn’t check the top part
with the rope. Knowing I was close, made me aware about the danger and the risk
of the upper part. A risk I hadn’t looked after during the previous days.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Hard to hear, but I
got to the point of a very radical and miserable decision: I wanted to make a
drop off after reaching the grove where you can remove your hands. I know it
was going to be a very shameful deal, but I wished to link those moves together.
I would have done it drop off for myself, letting the boulder as a totally open
project for the next braver climber. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">I took this decision and then I rested to
execute it in this way. My mind was very relaxed, knowing that I wasn’t going
to risk a bad fall. I was climbing very well mentally, because I chose the
shortest way of the miserable drop off. I could do the whole first part very
well and I reached the groove where I thought to leave the problem. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Obviously, I changed quickly my idea. I
couldn’t jump down. Few minutes later that horrible decision, I was only
thinking about smearing and trying despite the risk I knew to take. I asked for
chalk and Stuart smartly extended my bag with his stick. I chalked my hands, my
shoes and a couple of smearing. It was time to do it and didn’t look back
anymore. I breath and I could feel myself relaxed enough. I went up slowly,
carefully, safely, feeling every smear, every poor texture, every vibes the
shoes could gave me. I reached the top and I simply thought how stupid I was to
only think about a possible drop off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpqt76DJjWgKZoOPVfKXM874sJ0fRmKZJl_xRp5u6lJQ6GehEs8Ms_2o8iago0M0i-Q4zknycFw8Ks61PjifaW3vYJ9z3NDiTv-_oi8z109eIndrBx8PPbd-yHJr25uSN5tFzvQNyRSQE/s1600/Bio+Direct+Project%252C+Castle+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpqt76DJjWgKZoOPVfKXM874sJ0fRmKZJl_xRp5u6lJQ6GehEs8Ms_2o8iago0M0i-Q4zknycFw8Ks61PjifaW3vYJ9z3NDiTv-_oi8z109eIndrBx8PPbd-yHJr25uSN5tFzvQNyRSQE/s640/Bio+Direct+Project%252C+Castle+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Biotronic FA, Quantum Field (NZ). Photo Giulia Paoletti</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Kiss the sky low (Flock Hill)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Basically the only
repeating performance of the trip and another boulder which gave me back a kind
of confidence. It was months that I didn’t try something as hard as this one and
that wouldn’t be a project or a boulder I cleaned by my own. A part of mine
still needed to climb an hard boulder for the confused reasons I explained
before and “Kiss the sky” helped somehow to shake off those negative and wraith
pressures. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Right before Kiss the
sky, I could grab the third ascent of a beautiful problem named “The little
book of calm” and this also helped. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">I could learn that having lower expectations
and giving less importance at the boulders could make me a better climber and
this is definitively a way I want to take for my future. I did it few times in
the past and it worked well, so I promised to myself to be colder and more
relaxed in the next trips. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">That day in Flock
Hill we experienced a very apocalyptic wind since the sun arose. The pads
couldn’t stay. It was cold, annoying and damn hard to climb. Me, Giulia and
Stuart needed to switch our turns as pad keepers, otherwise the pads would have
flown away. I had never seen something similar. We thought to have seen the
worst, but in the middle of the afternoon, when we got to Kiss the sky, a
stronger wind came. We set the pads, but they weren’t able to stay on the
ground despite our efforts. We could see the water flowing from the pounds
about the next boulders. The scenario was unreal. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Then, we finally had few seconds of calm; I was
with my shoes on ready for my flash go. I am not a super fan of the flash go,
but sometimes I like to attempt some problems in this style. I was in a rush because
of the wind; I knew it was going to blow again soon and I didn’t remove my
hoodie. I climbed the boulder until the last hard move: a huge span to a decent
and rounded sloper behind a blind corner. I missed it for a very little.
Probably the rush wasn’t the best thing for the situation and I wasn’t focused
as I wished. I fall down and I immediately jumped again on the boulders doing
the big moves easily. While I was still checking the exit, Gulia lost a couple
of pads. The last holds aren’t so bad, but it seemed to be a weird and
balancing climbing. I kept going, while I looked down seeing no pads and starting
to be really scary. I reached the slippery top and I needed to get down, but
the wind was still making me losing the balance. I reached the bottom and I
lied on the pads. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">I waited several minutes and then the wind
turned into a chill breeze for a while. I started my second go and this time I
removed my hoodie. It was probably the key. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US"> Everything was okay: my climbing,
the big move, the wind and the pads. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5HSPN6lC10yEgTrOAHEx7w0l4PR1j_NLs3hhaXVmnST7Wma4X301nDsyx-TzXtpfyLF6CUpVar5-8q4_eXILegvhoDdtFM9CrlwKBRovxJBQt0JK7WY1DhWALeXra0L1PIB9ZKVOqI9k/s1600/Kiss+the+Sky+low+V13%252C+Flock+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Bevan+Triebels+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5HSPN6lC10yEgTrOAHEx7w0l4PR1j_NLs3hhaXVmnST7Wma4X301nDsyx-TzXtpfyLF6CUpVar5-8q4_eXILegvhoDdtFM9CrlwKBRovxJBQt0JK7WY1DhWALeXra0L1PIB9ZKVOqI9k/s640/Kiss+the+Sky+low+V13%252C+Flock+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Bevan+Triebels+%25283%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Checking holds on "Kiss the Sky" in Flock Hill (NZ). Photo Bevan Triebels</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Cold Fusion (Quantum Field)<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Obviously it is not the best boulder on earth,
that’s clear. One of those sample of mediocre boulder, but with brilliant moves
which simply make you enjoy the entire learning process. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Cold Fusion may
represents Castle Hill in a nutshell: 3 meters of rock with a slightly overhang
angle, stand start from a slippery pocket and a nasty edge which is basically
one of the few holds that the entire wall has to offer. Bad feet, one of those it
is also insanely sharp for your right shoe. Actually they are not bad smears,
but every footholds point in the wrong direction. Nearly at the top, there are two
opposite slopy features into a deep hole, and then a final illusionary jug
before the rounded lip. To cut it short, one of those boulder with all the
holds you need: one more would be too much, one less and it would be
impossible. Again, another typical boulder that the number lovers are going to
hate probably, since it’s only rated as V11. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">While you climb it, every mistake can lead to
further and bigger mistakes the higher you go, until the point where your
position is simply too wrong to keep going and you are off the wall. To reach
the beta, the learning process required me a lot of goes, energy and skin. Some
mistakes started to be clear after a while, making some small and tiny adjustments
for the later attempts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"> After a
bit, I could get how similar this boulder is to “La Prou” in Cresciano.
Probably harder, since you haven’t anything to pull on. I realized how much
important was to put the first high foot to start in the precise spot. This
could allow me to adjust the first hold well, so getting higher with my body,
finding the right position and trying
the first move in a proper balance. If that foot wasn’t perfectly located,
there weren’t any chances to grab the first sloper correctly and I was off.
Since the first foot was hard to place,
it quickly became clear how important was the zone where I step on the pad before
pulling. If I step good, I could put the foot as I wanted, hence having chances;
if the foot wasn’t good, all the other pieces of the puzzle couldn’t match. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">I am obviously a fan of these lines, but I need
to admit it may get you frustrated. Talking with Stuart between the breaks, we
analyzed the body positions, the moves and we also talked about the NZ style in
general. We wondered why people don’t go to Castle Hill very often. Cold Fusion
was actually a perfect sample to talk about the poor traffic of climbers. I
think the area could be hard for someone who takes care about numbers, fashion
or quick ticks. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">More tries, more rest and more studying from
the bottom. Other sessions and other improvements, but still the moves couldn’t
come easy. I knew that to climb it, I needed to climb it well without doing any
efforts. Other break, other studying. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Then I stepped perfectly on the pad and I pushed
on the right foot. It was good, I already knew it was going to happen even if I
was only at the beginning. This time no mistakes, every details could just
build better adjustments for the next moves and while I was climbing I could
think I was going to do it. The problem was somehow solved and I hit the jug. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US">Just to be sure than anything can’t come easier
here, I still had troubles on the mantle, but after a couple of minutes, I
could stand at the top of one of the freakiest problem I have ever completed! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzDUBr2mfwdMVum0eEam7uc5XtA6cutcuiUUrX0_4CiTOTI0d3yjH8WPdWaTsw80oJtR6nKZggHvByjqAIm7-e9jhMQA-3cUQsSrDHPNk8EXdUsYTTjmmPcrBkqVoRbGG3uYlCchW9NQ/s1600/Cold+Fusion+V11%252C+Castle+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="413" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzDUBr2mfwdMVum0eEam7uc5XtA6cutcuiUUrX0_4CiTOTI0d3yjH8WPdWaTsw80oJtR6nKZggHvByjqAIm7-e9jhMQA-3cUQsSrDHPNk8EXdUsYTTjmmPcrBkqVoRbGG3uYlCchW9NQ/s640/Cold+Fusion+V11%252C+Castle+Hill+%2528NZ%2529.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">Cold Fusion in Quantum Field (NZ). Photo Giulia Paoletti</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-73476782368179206232016-05-08T08:26:00.001+02:002016-07-07T08:26:27.247+02:00Springtime - Home projects<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPyNYCA-4qXonksBh6e6V3RD5PrOgkznwMl2E_cJV_VE01JGio0_-95dZU8fVFH4MHk-1PU2v0pf_GiFIVko3ARlwIuM2BAvTY-I2KY4W7qOumGl3DjOhSVvYkupiq-4f3tQ033VqWBM/s1600/Kinshasa%252C+Valle+d%2527Aosta.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPyNYCA-4qXonksBh6e6V3RD5PrOgkznwMl2E_cJV_VE01JGio0_-95dZU8fVFH4MHk-1PU2v0pf_GiFIVko3ARlwIuM2BAvTY-I2KY4W7qOumGl3DjOhSVvYkupiq-4f3tQ033VqWBM/s640/Kinshasa%252C+Valle+d%2527Aosta.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Fake class" V12, Valle d'Aosta. Photo Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">It’s sometime good to stop for a while, reflecting and realizing how
lucky my hometown position is for bouldering. It's something that I
usually underestimate, but in some moments I have the brilliant feeling to note
how many good things I can do in a couple of hours driving. Beyond the ultra
classic and nowadays very well known areas of Ticino, Valais and Varazze, there
are also other little sectors where to go: Isolated locations, where the crowds
fortunately don’t like to go and where a climbing day can often turns into a
very pleasant day with only the wild around you. Last year I spent a full
and very busy period in April in Aosta valley, on the back side of my
home town, where these little sectors showed me hidden gems,
scattered zones, good rock and possibilities to clean new good lines.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">During the past year I only had 3 weeks to enjoy these beautiful
balance, in addition of a couple of cold and good weeks in
December. Last April, I was coming from 2 Months in Font and I was heading to
the Grampians in May, right 20 days after the trip in the Forest. I had short
time, my shape and motivations was extremely high, so I didn’t think about
training or other stuff and I spent loads of time in climbing and
exploring almost every day. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">This season things rolled differently; I had two months between my usual
winter trip and the chasing winter of our summer, my shape wasn’t as good as 12
months ago and I hence needed to balance a bit of training with cleaning first
and climbing then. That has been for sure a good time, even if sometimes was
hard to manage both things giving 100% on both parts. Besides, I have been
also focused on other aspects like a partnership with a new sponsor,
editing new clips at home, shaping some climbing holds and make a plan for the upcoming
trip to New Zealand and Australia.</span><br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Today is the last day at home and I obviously think about the
experiences I had on these new boulders. I don’t want to dwell too much with
words, since I have uploaded several photos on my Instagram page when
something emotional came out. I wanted to share a little gallery here
below, especially for what concerns a very funny, and muddy, cave I have been
cleaning in the last couple of weeks. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">It is now time to think about the next trip to Castle Hill and say hello
to these places until the next fall.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="background-color: white;"><i>The new ones from this springtime:</i></span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Doppia Fama V12 FA **<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Boiler Arete V10 FA ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">78 % V11 FA ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Ghia V12 FA *****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Riot in Hell V10 FA (Tinello) ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Acqua di Gio V9 FA **<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Fake Class V12 FA ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Kinshasa V13 FA ***</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;">Undercut V13 FA ***</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVOYCy2Q_H8t0OoIKItd4o-s0Tawq2ZOsezmzG9iJDaQ_r828F6GOGyHoFxKEWsOpU2T971cBo-fJlDXxViQzNjeaxwg8sN4dzLcOMpcZmdkQfPetN9iepGTKvPAjVCbGmAvkoJyDkaBI/s1600/BestPhoto_20160506_145414_1-1-02.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVOYCy2Q_H8t0OoIKItd4o-s0Tawq2ZOsezmzG9iJDaQ_r828F6GOGyHoFxKEWsOpU2T971cBo-fJlDXxViQzNjeaxwg8sN4dzLcOMpcZmdkQfPetN9iepGTKvPAjVCbGmAvkoJyDkaBI/s640/BestPhoto_20160506_145414_1-1-02.jpeg" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cave project, Valle d'Aosta</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT6KwlIVgf6PHC1ctUxongcFlQwe0FIbS78ns-qsUw3oxyFEafG4FFw0nkVS1KYW0KpWsokG0b433khe9htZ1moUUyACnE1qD0LhtSZ8aZP1CKvK9G9EgF6D621XzgoZHq5fUs49K9a1U/s1600/gaby+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="412" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT6KwlIVgf6PHC1ctUxongcFlQwe0FIbS78ns-qsUw3oxyFEafG4FFw0nkVS1KYW0KpWsokG0b433khe9htZ1moUUyACnE1qD0LhtSZ8aZP1CKvK9G9EgF6D621XzgoZHq5fUs49K9a1U/s640/gaby+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrea Zanone trying "Raton Matado", Valle d'Aosta</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCX_GLPAiCin5TGSQMf3mRUzHwfcOx6Ijt4GgIPlE48Pm1EFPtxTjnt_9YZ6NniP6uFq9VrQ4can11B2fMEOSRvkQfX8dfzQ04yoZNXyTt14EN1fXmK3FfkIHpwMyOfAcNQMKZzTawcLs/s1600/20160425_152950%25280%2529-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCX_GLPAiCin5TGSQMf3mRUzHwfcOx6Ijt4GgIPlE48Pm1EFPtxTjnt_9YZ6NniP6uFq9VrQ4can11B2fMEOSRvkQfX8dfzQ04yoZNXyTt14EN1fXmK3FfkIHpwMyOfAcNQMKZzTawcLs/s640/20160425_152950%25280%2529-01.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Kinshasa" V13, Valle d'Aosta</td></tr>
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</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-83294407599228702402016-03-17T12:59:00.000+01:002016-04-05T13:27:07.722+02:00Basilicata, February 2016<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgtw6MYYa5KWeh9D-IOhyphenhyphenwjNDH0gha-wFdrKMB3doTiB0sZHO8A1QMurp-WebPy1bYmxUdaNfHfK45HKPkdr2QQkJsLBghkHXYaa7FQopgc7XevAsYL7418a9Yu9wI0ovWIOFYH8_Ilc/s1600/....JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizgtw6MYYa5KWeh9D-IOhyphenhyphenwjNDH0gha-wFdrKMB3doTiB0sZHO8A1QMurp-WebPy1bYmxUdaNfHfK45HKPkdr2QQkJsLBghkHXYaa7FQopgc7XevAsYL7418a9Yu9wI0ovWIOFYH8_Ilc/s640/....JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Campomaggiore, Basilicata</td></tr>
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It was one
of those lonely night at home, right before the dinner time. January was almost
over and a little training loop was coming to an end. It had not been an
efficient training loop; for a reason or another I missed the proper pace and I
felt sorer than what I should have been. That night was the end of a resting
day and I was managing the last things before my upcoming trip: a tour among
the southern Italian sandstone boulders. During the journey I would have been
alone and many thoughts was making me doubtful. The last time I moved for a
long travel was in November. Like it usually befalls, in the previous winter
months, I lost energies up on the projects in Aosta valley. I also went to
Ticino a couple of times, then I stuck myself into the gym for wide part of
January. I felt I needed a little change, so I opted to set the rock climbing a
side for a bit. At the end of the month, I felt psyched to travel once again. I
needed to check new places, new areas, new stones. But, more than other times,
I needed to look for something special, something a bit out of the lines. At
the same moment, I also felt frightened to move for something I didn't know. I
felt like a bit trapped from the home comfort and by the family warmth of the
closest areas, which gave me assurance and safety. I went for the dinner at my
Granma's place, like it often happens, and I kept thinking about the travel of
the upcoming days.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">My grandma
asked me a favor for the next Tuesday and I replied I couldn't do it since I
would have been off. I explained I was moving to Basilicata, in the southern
part of Italy for a couple of weeks or maybe more. She still reminds well, so
she knew I hadn't been down there yet. "Why do you go there, are there any
special stones?" she asked. I couldn't give her a proper reply. I just
said I hadn't no clue about what she asked. That was in fact a true answer. I
heard rumors about the area, I asked a couple of opinions and I also checked a
bunch of photos, but I didn't know if the trip would have been worthy or not. I
was extremely keen to go down and look for new brilliant lines. The psyche was
high, but obviously nothing was guaranteed. I could have found nothing, or
maybe everything. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I left just
few nights later. It was in the middle of the nighttime and nobody was around.
The journey was long and the more I went ahead, the more that question
resounded in my mind. Who knows if there would have been the things I was
looking for. I felt insecure, to be honest. My car was at its last journey. It
is a very hold station wagon and since a couple of months it is not totally
safe in the highway bends. It somehow could mirror my travel doubts. Why, I
asked to myself once again; Tons of good projects were awaits in the valleys next
to my place, while I was doing a 1000 km travel for something I wasn't sure to
find. I couldn't get an answer, but I kept driving until the next afternoon. I
left the freeway in Foggia and the landscapes were absolutely Southern. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In the late
afternoon I got to Campomaggiore, the village above the climbing sectors. The little
hamlet has a very quiet atmosphere and this gave me somehow a touch of
certainty. The B&B was cozy and pretty. The first steps into my room helped
me a bit to remove the fears I stored during the journey. I felt home
atmosphere and I had the comforts I wished. Even if I hadn't seen any pieces of
rock yet, I couldn't imagine the sandstone and I felt a bit more positive.
Right before night, all the thoughts went away and I felt serene again. By this
time I was there, and the step to move down was completed. I was satisfied to
have won once again the home trap and I started to built positive thoughts. The
morning later I would have had appointment with Marco, a friend of mine from
Potenza who was free to show me around. I sincerely hoped that the answer of my
grandma could find a touch of true. Even if the first day would haven't been
enough, I truly wanted to clarify those doubts within the end of the stay.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Marco carried
me up to the area and after the hike among the cows we got to the first blocs.
The quality of the first 2 rocks was pretty high and upper to my expectations.
The first one, "Ole'" 7C, presented some spider webs at the bottom
and a Font "tortoise" holds at the top. Not only the looking was
good, but even the texture was something I really liked. The promises were now
a bit higher and I was fading into a positive certainty. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I spent the
first days jumping from a classic to another. Michele Caminati checked the zone
back in the seasons and many of the boulders he freed have an amazing aspect.
"La chiave del Sole" 8A+ has been even better than what I supposed
and "Empire state boulder" (again 8A+) went absolutely beyond any
expectations.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFdFAYoMSk4_Jdtz6d4bAkf0tlhJ1LjAWSXh3LtwV0kRFCIfsFNpr28-dpmhF-hWMHkeS1cYGUrJxm0E2-rFf4_64WWCekoTh2CyWZ2XB9_cmlWw8hr5eIvA3y6Qr6Tx_wGYW0mdwUrG4/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+La+chiave+del+Sole+8B+%2528SA%2529%252C+Pietra+del+Toro.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFdFAYoMSk4_Jdtz6d4bAkf0tlhJ1LjAWSXh3LtwV0kRFCIfsFNpr28-dpmhF-hWMHkeS1cYGUrJxm0E2-rFf4_64WWCekoTh2CyWZ2XB9_cmlWw8hr5eIvA3y6Qr6Tx_wGYW0mdwUrG4/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+La+chiave+del+Sole+8B+%2528SA%2529%252C+Pietra+del+Toro.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La chiave del Sole (2nd asc), Basilicata.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHNakLAO2aJYkGMYZFQsPnPI7-PZdX_bp2bNYEWYfTUfqEsEUUE1lTx82bcEm61T5wi54XbdfIOp39Z1WZoJlJB-W7-rKEHjJYEl19iDzMUqprZiy-Ey7Vp4CtKFxEoyNnQUiAW_MKFHg/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+Empire+state+Boulder+8A%252B+%2528SA%2529%252C+Pietra+del+Toro.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHNakLAO2aJYkGMYZFQsPnPI7-PZdX_bp2bNYEWYfTUfqEsEUUE1lTx82bcEm61T5wi54XbdfIOp39Z1WZoJlJB-W7-rKEHjJYEl19iDzMUqprZiy-Ey7Vp4CtKFxEoyNnQUiAW_MKFHg/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+Empire+state+Boulder+8A%252B+%2528SA%2529%252C+Pietra+del+Toro.JPG" width="402" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Empire State Boulder (2nd asc), Basilicata. Photo Marco Giorgio</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">Marco had
more free time than what we thought and we fortunately went chasing together.
We found many things to put in the list; some of those were tall and pure, with
a super solid sandstone. If I was satisfied from the classics, I was probably
even more fulfilled to see all of these nice virgin boulders. The exploration
side was obviously the fact who worried me more, since it wasn't guaranteed at
all. I didn't only find interesting boulders to clean, but I also checked different
things which are worthy to make a trip back in the next years.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">I spent several
days of the trip and a good amount of efforts into a specific and beautiful
project. This bloc is one of the first you meet on the way up and it features
the same Mt Fox's rock; namely the typical famous, and infamous, orange spider-webs
conformations of the Grampians. After two intensive and long days of attempts,
I managed to get the right sequence and climb all the single moves. The way I
was using is very specific, conditions depending and finger strength requiring.
It counts a total of five moves, where the crimpy full angle of the fingers is
necessary. I hence needed to keep my fingers really close for a long range of
time. Being this one of my weakest skills, the experience turned into a hard
deal to manage. I was anyway happy to see little improvements day by day;
despite the conditions were getting worse and worse and the skin started to be moist
after the weeks, I felt I was getting the right feelings on the full crimp
actions and I was psyched to see the parts coming together. I kept forcing
myself to keep the fist super close, and I surprisingly could see some
progresses after a while. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The last
cool day was coming and I knew it was the last chance for a good and reasonable
session. I woke up early as usual and I was ready under the crimps at 8 o'clock.
In the very early morning the area tends to be humid, and, since the boulder is
facing south, it quickly gets warm. I so had a good windows opportunity between
8 and 11, when the attempts could have had a sense and it would have been dry,
but not insanely hot. Few degrees less could have helped me a bit, but it wasn't
time to complain. I began the session and I went actually well in few occasions.
I missed the sending before the last move and I could climb the problem in two overlapping
parts. 11 o clock came, skin was very over and the sun was covering all the
face making the rock burning. I was quite disappointed to miss it, but somehow
happy to know what is waiting for my next visit. The doubtful pre-journey
questions were a memory only.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWH5tJOxZWdUaXGUVCoNTxoDpXR1McYd_11QSq6sNXLjCJg2SOhoDtXhztY4Wn25XeELwtZJT3bpPNvn-nE99p32khvopD8a4MJeJjPpy7C_Z0mNgqlifanPDZAY_Qrt_XqSIPDkBBENc/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria%252C+trying+a+new+project.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWH5tJOxZWdUaXGUVCoNTxoDpXR1McYd_11QSq6sNXLjCJg2SOhoDtXhztY4Wn25XeELwtZJT3bpPNvn-nE99p32khvopD8a4MJeJjPpy7C_Z0mNgqlifanPDZAY_Qrt_XqSIPDkBBENc/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria%252C+trying+a+new+project.JPG" width="450" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Project, Basilicata. Photo Marco Giorgio</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">Searching
for new and exciting lines consisted in the big goal of my trip, mostly during
the second half of the stay. I wished to find something very special and, at
that point, I knew the chaces were high. During one of the long breaks between
the project sessions, I went exploring a lower part of an old sector. Marco had
already been there in the past, but he couldn't remember if there were any special
things or not. We progressed with quick and secure steps through the known part
of the zone, then our steps became slower and the glances left and right were
more intense. We went further and we got into another blocs band. We eyed a
bunch of great stones in the middle of the forest and we followed an imaginary
path to reach them. Coming out of the thick vegetation, we step in front of
what I was truly looking for. It was too early to be fascinated, so I opted to
give a deeper and rational looking. After several minutes I understood it was
very doable, not too hard and I was sure it was going to be a brilliant
problem; One of those I have always wished to find in my life. The day was over
and we went back to the car, making the appointment for the day after. It was
tacit where we were going to go; that line needed to born and we both were
fascinated by its beauty. The morning later I brushed an old highball, called
"Urban Cowboy" V8, one of the best arete I have ever climbed. Happy
from the beauty of this, we were ready to step into the new amazing project. We
were cleaning and chalking in a deep silence; both lost into their own
thoughts. Just few technical comments seemed to be allowed. The atmosphere was
unique. In the late afternoon it was ready, and I quickly started to try the
sequences with a couple of pads. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After a
session I knew I could have done it and the quality of the moves gave a further
touch of beauty. We looked at the clock; Marco needed to be at the gym right
after and he had to move around five o'clock. I would have had a further hour,
but I really wanted to climb with him. We found the line together, we cleaned
it and we were both part of this process. I cooled down my fingers and I
started positive. I step through the crux, I went ahead and I reached the upper
part, where the prow became very wide and I am at the full extension with my
arms. I had some troubles before the exit, but I fortunately got it. I topped
it out. I had climbed my favorite line and many efforts had been paid off in
few seconds only. The name choosen is "Geometrie non Euclidee". The
research could start once again and I felt happy to have found a positive
answers to the many pre-journey questions.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The days later,
we were able to find other nice looking problems and many other projects I
couldn't clean for questions of time. I will think about those for many days, until
the next time I will be back in this land. I will definitively start with a
more secure approach, but always searching for something new and not very guaranteed.
Thank you Basilicata, hope to see you soon!</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrBBVmiM7n0nUjkFqgxMuIK_tcbtP6P5itnLii1lDLD-OZvDVaBy7RCJyq84x1_42rnHtF8TWA1TqmZ_1hJPmGXrN2ulpuEBdjz0ZgkywRyAG0emz2ORgXpZc4MFuVbm5dhb4oHwW7I9A/s1600/Urban.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrBBVmiM7n0nUjkFqgxMuIK_tcbtP6P5itnLii1lDLD-OZvDVaBy7RCJyq84x1_42rnHtF8TWA1TqmZ_1hJPmGXrN2ulpuEBdjz0ZgkywRyAG0emz2ORgXpZc4MFuVbm5dhb4oHwW7I9A/s640/Urban.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Urban Cowboy, Basilicata. </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2NkWtK2ox46OX9U-NpDDy3jG4XekxV3TwGHtXNa46V6_FgzKs87SoUe81WZcqSHgEQPt0ezCwX7BG8nksRaL8euvzEONys6And8daukQOiAWSJw1DjoB1IQGZfWGpIBm9KN00DZM1sxM/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+Geometrie+non+Euclidee+8A%252B+%2528FA%2529%252C+Pietra+del+Toro+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2NkWtK2ox46OX9U-NpDDy3jG4XekxV3TwGHtXNa46V6_FgzKs87SoUe81WZcqSHgEQPt0ezCwX7BG8nksRaL8euvzEONys6And8daukQOiAWSJw1DjoB1IQGZfWGpIBm9KN00DZM1sxM/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+Geometrie+non+Euclidee+8A%252B+%2528FA%2529%252C+Pietra+del+Toro+%25283%2529.JPG" width="430" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geometrie non euclidee (FA), Basilicata. Photo Marco Giorgio</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFFMr9_djy_pzG3LM0skTGAS_Tfq2pxb1ayTA0ETdbCYv5OplNhFm5ce4SpRHAsypcCBsB7a_JcPMiea_dLxpFWsumFEeIOxLrgOaBUBMAJcXx3tI8i9uZF3wKdvHxvJ1fPdMxDeJMxVo/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+Occhio+di+Bue+8A%252B%252C+Pietra+del+Toro+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFFMr9_djy_pzG3LM0skTGAS_Tfq2pxb1ayTA0ETdbCYv5OplNhFm5ce4SpRHAsypcCBsB7a_JcPMiea_dLxpFWsumFEeIOxLrgOaBUBMAJcXx3tI8i9uZF3wKdvHxvJ1fPdMxDeJMxVo/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+Occhio+di+Bue+8A%252B%252C+Pietra+del+Toro+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Occhio di Bue, Basilicata.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Titanic (FA), Basilicata. Photo Marco Giorgio</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Agronomono non Praticante, Basilicata. Photo Marco Giorgio</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basento Ruggente (FA), Basilicata</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-77159150479051318302016-01-02T13:06:00.001+01:002016-01-02T13:06:39.344+01:002015 - Top 10 problems<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Here is the usual top-10 list of my favorite boulders of the year. It has been a really tough and long choice to draft the best moments/lines I did during the 2015. I saw many shapes, tons of good rock, amazing problems and these are what I suppose to be the best 10 ones of the last 12 months. Enjoy, and sorry for the missing photo at the 7th place.</div>
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<b>- 10th. "The Outsider"</b>, Grampians (AUS).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghU5zbKwJIvhi3otA1Bg4SB0W_HH2ywPFUBcmLku689mif8tNFfp1LCQcF8Pi-mEe2tHNkixssrtIvST4hS-PIxQ6HzCX4M0q-83FPFVa2KmXzNplNf9Fox_aWpim-ag2mCneHkSaV7V8/s1600/Riccardo+tot%25C3%25B2+monetta+on+The+Outsider+V11%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghU5zbKwJIvhi3otA1Bg4SB0W_HH2ywPFUBcmLku689mif8tNFfp1LCQcF8Pi-mEe2tHNkixssrtIvST4hS-PIxQ6HzCX4M0q-83FPFVa2KmXzNplNf9Fox_aWpim-ag2mCneHkSaV7V8/s640/Riccardo+tot%25C3%25B2+monetta+on+The+Outsider+V11%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riky on "The Outsider".</td></tr>
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<b>- 9th. "The Big Island"</b>, Fontainebleau (FRA).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgba64BanuNn4XJda6c2Vwfax3SUKKDyzvD93hMFXY6F-Pt_FFWO4uAgYRGRY_EKlxbGB7NSqWjrB08XKxpM_q1MWPSIjARkXeby5syUjmKUf3apNpKrMFVx2PaZs_XkyO16xQWU9fkNmM/s1600/The+big+Island+8C%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgba64BanuNn4XJda6c2Vwfax3SUKKDyzvD93hMFXY6F-Pt_FFWO4uAgYRGRY_EKlxbGB7NSqWjrB08XKxpM_q1MWPSIjARkXeby5syUjmKUf3apNpKrMFVx2PaZs_XkyO16xQWU9fkNmM/s640/The+big+Island+8C%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
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<b>- 8th. "Partage/Partage Assis"</b>, Fontainebleau (FRA).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfixD3-J353PynJ4ViUODVK5346Ntl4AU7BWtzVc-gxWjVUSm2igURkw9r8BLx-5HZUVNtaICx5BIiCKzWyypijP-CCmbRDoUGhjxK06-wKxf9s3OYMSsngcbrnhsQO59g-6UMso-so3A/s1600/Partage+assis+8B%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25286%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfixD3-J353PynJ4ViUODVK5346Ntl4AU7BWtzVc-gxWjVUSm2igURkw9r8BLx-5HZUVNtaICx5BIiCKzWyypijP-CCmbRDoUGhjxK06-wKxf9s3OYMSsngcbrnhsQO59g-6UMso-so3A/s640/Partage+assis+8B%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25286%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>7th. "Osiris"</b>, Tennessee (USA). I unfortunately don't have any pictures of this one.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>6th. "Elephunk"</b>, Fontainebleau (FRA).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeAZEp01TOCCOtAFYYX1TLOUXuN9MDlZVNO47JOAY1bPeRqWa-qSkNO6O5WlU5lDHJASHaj86CdUM2f-4z3W3MWtVIb8kvxEMzikWl_JewYgvdjXSPryGutnG8aUMAWCV9ENehDlYUREA/s1600/Elephunk+8B%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeAZEp01TOCCOtAFYYX1TLOUXuN9MDlZVNO47JOAY1bPeRqWa-qSkNO6O5WlU5lDHJASHaj86CdUM2f-4z3W3MWtVIb8kvxEMzikWl_JewYgvdjXSPryGutnG8aUMAWCV9ENehDlYUREA/s640/Elephunk+8B%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25281%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>5th. "Nichilismo"</b>, Valle Cervo (ITA).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAUl8kmaysoG2d-gwakozta60JVC4dQN8ee2l0MxELl9yesvY_yQ4TmXWQzll8xxwWzHRFOgCz4vmePGv_aHcFuFwPB5cWfPZzghAiSVVUoDp4QWM4R8KrCGvuGoZuYfHVK2Q3RxRFQY/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+Nichilismo+8B%252B+FA%252C+Desate.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAUl8kmaysoG2d-gwakozta60JVC4dQN8ee2l0MxELl9yesvY_yQ4TmXWQzll8xxwWzHRFOgCz4vmePGv_aHcFuFwPB5cWfPZzghAiSVVUoDp4QWM4R8KrCGvuGoZuYfHVK2Q3RxRFQY/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+su+Nichilismo+8B%252B+FA%252C+Desate.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti.jpeg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>4th. "Appartenance"</b>, Fontainebleau (FRA).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHpPNf4E0gEbcBzmbyAo-jO_Q83L7VjKQqaoj81b0SwKhtRiMTcxFTbSuerUfL1XsO8DPaCopQWVsFbddTTi1OJjUsCXiJaKCNGs9yZDfom4vNsfsu70dQpGbb5iJvLTlCfvjFOPaR3hs/s1600/Appartenence+7C%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHpPNf4E0gEbcBzmbyAo-jO_Q83L7VjKQqaoj81b0SwKhtRiMTcxFTbSuerUfL1XsO8DPaCopQWVsFbddTTi1OJjUsCXiJaKCNGs9yZDfom4vNsfsu70dQpGbb5iJvLTlCfvjFOPaR3hs/s640/Appartenence+7C%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25281%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<b>3rd. "Owning the weather"</b>, Grampians (AUS).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Screenshot from the clip</td></tr>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>2nd. "Ebano"</b>, Tennessee (USA).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGD9kKjAAtY4CPP-BuLNOuOYQca2ZVIaKxqIItreb2salaGeOD74mysQo0YiOLEM_ZKW4K0OxI5_z8_odzA-XGyWNGHBsBaat02msNRl7guwq5oIoIB-cRRHlSbVGR6eSno70TpfkWxo8/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Ebano+V11+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Beau+Kahler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGD9kKjAAtY4CPP-BuLNOuOYQca2ZVIaKxqIItreb2salaGeOD74mysQo0YiOLEM_ZKW4K0OxI5_z8_odzA-XGyWNGHBsBaat02msNRl7guwq5oIoIB-cRRHlSbVGR6eSno70TpfkWxo8/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Ebano+V11+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Beau+Kahler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Beau Kahler</td></tr>
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<br />
<b>1st. "Illusion du Choix"</b>, Fontainebleau (FRA).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKOkoZD3FAqrefxxpAtwDSOim3Hi_0DRuGYdHUe7l8bvTub8S04hD25bM45F6kwJ50GZ6YY_MyO6nXiInU9_BEkmWW8WaMh8ioe8pClKqxOg3IzyrMGhDyDUu15VKB9ztDtCZLvBJSm0/s1600/Illusion+du+Choix+8B+%25282nd+asc.%2529%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmKOkoZD3FAqrefxxpAtwDSOim3Hi_0DRuGYdHUe7l8bvTub8S04hD25bM45F6kwJ50GZ6YY_MyO6nXiInU9_BEkmWW8WaMh8ioe8pClKqxOg3IzyrMGhDyDUu15VKB9ztDtCZLvBJSm0/s640/Illusion+du+Choix+8B+%25282nd+asc.%2529%252C+Fontainebleau+%2528FRA%2529.+Photo+Stefan+Kuerzi+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-77110310925719590162015-12-03T23:49:00.000+01:002015-12-03T23:49:39.346+01:00The South-Est. My second US trip. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0NpEsxtgXY5qrHkrojeLtiRfLVn4r-MjUfQviD7duolc2u6mNF9_24V91W9XjV9DT4ZMZiYvBA4ZAdJ30MutF7iv_JWCuRuSYnOkLH3dFZhnY5cSwKHNxjp3sL-UdzoTmef0EUHdVXCg/s1600/Landscape+South+East+%25285%2529%252C+Photo+Paul+Robinson.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0NpEsxtgXY5qrHkrojeLtiRfLVn4r-MjUfQviD7duolc2u6mNF9_24V91W9XjV9DT4ZMZiYvBA4ZAdJ30MutF7iv_JWCuRuSYnOkLH3dFZhnY5cSwKHNxjp3sL-UdzoTmef0EUHdVXCg/s640/Landscape+South+East+%25285%2529%252C+Photo+Paul+Robinson.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Paul Robinson</td></tr>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Another
trip has gone by and another climbing area praises a tick on the list. The
South-East of the United States was one of the few outstanding classic zone
where I still desired to go. I have been waiting a lot for a good occasion to
go to Tennesee, but the chance took a while to come. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Last
October, Paul told me he was going there for the full month of November; The
spread out area seemed to be amazing for shooting a section of the new film
that Alex and him are producing, “Uncharted Lines”. I knew It would have been one of those rare
occasion to go, because, for a reason or
another, this place seems to be out of the radar for most of the European
climbers. Moreover, I would have spent a trip with Paul and Jimmy discovering
new lines, developing, cleaning and establishing. I was sure we were going to
have a great time. The idea excited me and I got the first cheap flight to head
to Chattanooga right after my weekly trip to Sheffield. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The trip
basically ran over three different weeks. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Our first week
was terrible. Delta Airlines lost my baggage and I hadn’t my goods for some
days. The Temperatures were insanely warm, the humidity was high most of the time and the woods were
still thick and green. The summer was giving its last signs. Climbing was almost impossible, excepted for
a couple of days where we attempted to go out, but the rocks were very wet
because of the condensation and the high moisture. The positive side of the deal was that I had
time to recover my jet-leg and to go
shopping to get what Delta didn’t give me back. I got some amazing underwear,
socks, pants and all the basic stuff I needed.
We also checked a couple of wet rocks in Cumberland area, Little Rock
City, Rocktown and some other hidden gems in Chattanooga. The rock seemed
amazing even when it was wet and I
couldn’t image how good it would have been once the sky would have cleared up.
I was anyway excited. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The second
week the weather improved a lot. Sky started to clear up, some decent days came
and we saw the first dry rock. Unfortunately to me, skin and shape didn’t seem positive
as I wanted. The first never stopped sweating, while my body felt somehow faint.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Before the
third week started, I took a couple of days off. The rest worked well and I got
some good skin while the first touch of winter was coming. Perfect timing. The last seven days have been
amazing: a lot of climbing, first ascents, cleaning, but also classics,
moderates and really amazing sandstone climbing. I have been checking many
areas from the southern to the northern Tennessee, with the addition of the
classic zone of Rocktown, in Georgia. The South-East can be considered like “the Font of America”,
like some climbers like to name it. The definition is generally appropriated,
but I feel to note some other good points.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">What has
been special to me is obviously the rock quality and, way more, some of the hold
shapes. Most of the times the climbing depends on the quality of these two
features. So, if they are cool, the climbing is probably gorgeous too. It is incredible how the
climbing and the sandstone change from sector to sector and how many nice styles
of bouldering is possible to have. The texture many times is similar to Font,
while in other parts is more comparable to Albarracin, or to Peak District or
to Ticino’s granite. Secondly, according to the rock, even the holds package is
really various. The boulders are hence really different, but the variety keeps
most of the times an awesome quality. And, last thing, the potential is big too.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">During the
trip I stood several times in front of new blocs; some of them were still to clean, waiting for some chalk;
While other ones were ready to set a first ascent. I obviously love the process
of the developing, since it is probably
one of the activities that makes me more excited about climbing. It is
something more special and different than the simple execution of a boulder; It
is creative, it includes art, vision, inspiration, doubts, vain attempts,
efforts, work and so on. It is something that when you complete it, lets an
indelible sign inside. I hardly forget good FA experiences. I anyway dislike to
go out and climb something just to claim the first ascent or to add a new one
randomly. When I look for a new line to clean, it has to stimulate my senses
and to be like a white sheet where I can draw my vision, following the “rules”
of the rock. It has to be a special bloc to me, otherwise I let it there. Once
I see something I know is going to be magical, everything turns on and I usually
don’t care about how many hours of
effort I should invest in “work”. Everything is just exciting and motivating.
Once the fresh chalk shines for the first time, I just feel alive and
satisfied. That’s maybe one of my favorite feeling in bouldering and reaching
this emotions in the South East has been sweet.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In two
boulders I had been able to transfer my vision and my abstract imagination on
the real rock. It first happened for “Ebano” and then, right after, for “Hell
was made in Heaven”. By the way, the second one is just next to other two
amazing lines freed by Paul and Jimmy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Beside the
first ascents I have made, I tried also some classics. I especially climbed on
some good old problems of Jimmy Webb, which were still unrepeated at the date.
Before showing some shots of the trip, I would like to put clear that many
blocs are in secret areas or on private lands and I take occasion to remind to
everyone to put at first the respect of the environment and of the rock,
everywhere we go. Enjoy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjEUCSNh6EYO8jMqPq6HA2qPC-a6tr0-nen9S73qKI83fT50aJ5X8-3C-pNsUXH7TLUXVt2DpAl7FW-XTMkeS2XDGswvVZYzw0cuHrZXF5tfMgvic-0I3NrHn1aTJ7ZkDP0iyD5fGVmE/s1600/Jimmy+Webb+on+Point+of+View+V11+FA%252C+Obed.+Photo+Paul+Robinson.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmjEUCSNh6EYO8jMqPq6HA2qPC-a6tr0-nen9S73qKI83fT50aJ5X8-3C-pNsUXH7TLUXVt2DpAl7FW-XTMkeS2XDGswvVZYzw0cuHrZXF5tfMgvic-0I3NrHn1aTJ7ZkDP0iyD5fGVmE/s640/Jimmy+Webb+on+Point+of+View+V11+FA%252C+Obed.+Photo+Paul+Robinson.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jimmy Webb on "Point of View" V11 (FA). Photo Paul Robinson</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCS0kwJhyIUeAJa19TM7RN3lzwXRPOXoD6-0-n7XHo7hTv-U9ZdwvVhCT3jNYVtDMsKMuLtGWIfnq7F15d_Tx5l-ZwJi25dmFum627mMTlop1FCTsZ2r76MGwHmrhJ2zBnbJyE69QtHEk/s1600/Jimmy+Webb+on+Southern+Drawl+V14+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Paul+Robinson.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCS0kwJhyIUeAJa19TM7RN3lzwXRPOXoD6-0-n7XHo7hTv-U9ZdwvVhCT3jNYVtDMsKMuLtGWIfnq7F15d_Tx5l-ZwJi25dmFum627mMTlop1FCTsZ2r76MGwHmrhJ2zBnbJyE69QtHEk/s640/Jimmy+Webb+on+Southern+Drawl+V14+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Paul+Robinson.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jimmy Webb on "Southern Drawl" V14 (FA). Photo Paul Robinson</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgisD0PP7ETwvcn3SXmphyXAwCw8LDJ8t1i3lXxh61R47IpEfSDt3MCCJyJdU4lxgLlmou-udPGhw-aobPzWsx3aatE1H-lmbdboP8cGOzxkb-vqA4rrBoe87ytIJJu1trMhP7qpUjk2w0/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Ebano+V11+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Beau+Kahler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgisD0PP7ETwvcn3SXmphyXAwCw8LDJ8t1i3lXxh61R47IpEfSDt3MCCJyJdU4lxgLlmou-udPGhw-aobPzWsx3aatE1H-lmbdboP8cGOzxkb-vqA4rrBoe87ytIJJu1trMhP7qpUjk2w0/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Ebano+V11+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Beau+Kahler.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Ebano" V11 (FA). Photo Beau Kahler<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3TJHYkN9x09Q-pJNLXwxEzX4CPXSBWHGutd-nN8ELx-snA4Fz72WivJNS8nxo5QcklrAmD0FCmegIj5qAv16M-K0TYOKjDvU4p6i5rSakby4xAlpuIE5kuc1hEgixyHt0acDjA3n1a1Y/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Hell+was+made+in+Heave+V10+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Beau+Kahler+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3TJHYkN9x09Q-pJNLXwxEzX4CPXSBWHGutd-nN8ELx-snA4Fz72WivJNS8nxo5QcklrAmD0FCmegIj5qAv16M-K0TYOKjDvU4p6i5rSakby4xAlpuIE5kuc1hEgixyHt0acDjA3n1a1Y/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Hell+was+made+in+Heave+V10+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Beau+Kahler+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Hell was made in heaven" V10 (FA). Photo Beau Kahler</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwvUBQSD4SUEPl8tr3bJLj5HQj2tH5LqqoJalMQdpOH8si1k4MCbucGJ0UM80ounrUfA45JHY0rdtRie26nF8bMc938uhgrg8V21zdxHF6WfAKGvrKfYFMJUdXz9A4B-XnNJ6Z0EQjyZE/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Little+Foot+V13%252C+2nd+Asc%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Alex+Kahn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwvUBQSD4SUEPl8tr3bJLj5HQj2tH5LqqoJalMQdpOH8si1k4MCbucGJ0UM80ounrUfA45JHY0rdtRie26nF8bMc938uhgrg8V21zdxHF6WfAKGvrKfYFMJUdXz9A4B-XnNJ6Z0EQjyZE/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Little+Foot+V13%252C+2nd+Asc%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Alex+Kahn.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Little Foot" V13 (SA). Photo Alex Kahn</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2w4KGAAv3CJc2yvT7Q_BHQ0fsVd-YVKjKB573tmHz3_4h3pOTANW6Zz1Kr6A4k341ICsmxjuZoz_Gr5UffFYidFWIL5rIZQi9Ow8yw1cMGyaBV68X2W9QHn7cSPH79mUCDFOY5ThXkU/s1600/Paul+Robinson+on+King+of+Contortion++V14%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Beau+Kahler.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2w4KGAAv3CJc2yvT7Q_BHQ0fsVd-YVKjKB573tmHz3_4h3pOTANW6Zz1Kr6A4k341ICsmxjuZoz_Gr5UffFYidFWIL5rIZQi9Ow8yw1cMGyaBV68X2W9QHn7cSPH79mUCDFOY5ThXkU/s640/Paul+Robinson+on+King+of+Contortion++V14%252C+Tennessee.+Photo+Beau+Kahler.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul Robinson on "King of contortion" V14 (SA). Photo Beau Kahler</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAY2ALMyxWbLPwKRVm5Wptlx3LQl55zLb0u_t3oSwOGAeJrjPzD-qyGeTvwGjYdu2weWAsvMBJ6QDmGIM61Ry67ZBF4lVwM9azBZ_KxYdH1pqklnMU7vgg6B6t2uBl1mnjEK4_PR4jz2k/s1600/Paul+Robinson+on+Knocking+on+heavens+door+V8+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Credits+Uncharted+Lines.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAY2ALMyxWbLPwKRVm5Wptlx3LQl55zLb0u_t3oSwOGAeJrjPzD-qyGeTvwGjYdu2weWAsvMBJ6QDmGIM61Ry67ZBF4lVwM9azBZ_KxYdH1pqklnMU7vgg6B6t2uBl1mnjEK4_PR4jz2k/s640/Paul+Robinson+on+Knocking+on+heavens+door+V8+FA%252C+Tennessee.+Credits+Uncharted+Lines.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paul Robinson on "Knocking on Heavens door" V8 (FA). Photo Uncharted Lines</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCeVPdZ5hAGhfCl-B6nOa7ldKRmVgyiS-MS7JtEvfXsmiBw3wI8Dg0tdNHPbP2Wz5elSXjrf-GdLhqS-zEXAllpXzRNGKiX7dwOlLMhEK2JVXifRbJJPoMSVLLtkYGy3fszIFXG_LRJy0/s1600/Landscape+South+East+%25282%2529%252C+Photo+Paul+Robinson.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCeVPdZ5hAGhfCl-B6nOa7ldKRmVgyiS-MS7JtEvfXsmiBw3wI8Dg0tdNHPbP2Wz5elSXjrf-GdLhqS-zEXAllpXzRNGKiX7dwOlLMhEK2JVXifRbJJPoMSVLLtkYGy3fszIFXG_LRJy0/s640/Landscape+South+East+%25282%2529%252C+Photo+Paul+Robinson.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Paul Robinson</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTeGnJJeXTIQXLz0x0suMbKYt6gSolDrUb-z9dVtWRzhl1GN2bPJsRiqHSqsgSRsLewesYzWgRvp_4jsGKTfo6Va1WbQ47h-ak79Sx8JAGUkPzVDarXdXo2gNSXM0sB_mibDPJcy26nzA/s1600/Landscape+South+East%252C+Photo+Paul+Robinson.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTeGnJJeXTIQXLz0x0suMbKYt6gSolDrUb-z9dVtWRzhl1GN2bPJsRiqHSqsgSRsLewesYzWgRvp_4jsGKTfo6Va1WbQ47h-ak79Sx8JAGUkPzVDarXdXo2gNSXM0sB_mibDPJcy26nzA/s640/Landscape+South+East%252C+Photo+Paul+Robinson.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Paul Robinson</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-59656037275542164742015-11-07T15:37:00.000+01:002015-11-07T15:38:42.602+01:00Voyager, Peak District (UK)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US">More than 5
years have passed since my first visit to UK. That time, together with Marco,
Gabri and Miki we had the pleasure to take part at the CWIF, one of the biggest
and best organized competition ever. We were nothing else but a bunch of
students, like a drunk of a typical pub had enjoyed to name us. After that good
competition at the works, the major climbing center of Sheffield, we spent a lovely week on the Peak District’s hills, bouldering on
the Gritstone. That was amazing; I will never forget that nice vacation which
was actually my longest trip to the date. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Bouldering
in the Peak was awesome for my tastes and I wished to come back as soon as
possible. What I really enjoyed was the
Gritstone itself, which makes unique shapes and offers a special climbing like
the one I usually look for. The gesture is in fact really balanced, you have to
dose enough strength and use a good technical approach. I immediately got the
deal that you cannot climb so much without using both of these skills. Slopy arêtes,
slopy crimps, vertical climbing, pebbles, smears are the major things which
features the movements. These blocs are
located in a stunning scenario too; Grey rocks, green meadows, scattered
woodlands and beautiful hills. You might wonder if there are any other better
place than this; Unfortunately the dark side of the area is the bizarre
weather, which is really unpredictable and it changes in a blink of an eye. So
you could have a decent week or remain
stuck in the gyms for many days in a row. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Time passed
by since that great holiday and I tried every season to plan a weekly trip, but
nothing happened. In 2010 and 2011 I got back for a couple of summer days, both
occasions were due to a world cup competition. Actually I didn't look forward to move to the rocks so much, but however I
couldn’t for the terrible heat. England seemed to be set aside of the list,
until the last summer when, discussing with Giulia, we were both keen to spend
a good time there. For her it would have been the first time, for me the glory
moment to attempt Voyager again. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Voyager is
one of the best problem in all the UK, established by the English legend Ben
Moon in 2005. One year later his achievement, he also established the sit,
which is currently the hardest thing in the Peak. At least this is what I have
heard. The intensive and lasting desire to come back to Voyager was due to a
specific reason. In 2010 I missed this problem at the very top, and I had to
leave it without the closing send. Back in the days, it would have been a great
triumph for my climbing, but not always you managed to roll the things as you
would like to. Obviously, Voyager was at the top of my list this time and after
a full month of training we only had to fly and keep our finger crossed for the
uncertain weather. I have always thought that if you feel good, ready and in a
good shape before a performance, you have already made half way to reach your
goal. Before sitting in front of the problem, I knew that a lot of work had
been done the month before and the hardest part was to execute the problem. It hence
was much more a mental effort than a
physical one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The first
day of the trip was damp, wet and foggy, so we waited for one more day. I felt impatient, but on the other side the Sheffield’s atmosphere was really pleasant. The day
came, it was cold dry and perfect. I saw Voyager again after many long days of
waiting and my eyes started to brighten. I tried to keep my enthusiasm really
low. I need to be focused, I felt I didn’t have many good shots to use my good
shape. On the first go I fall very high, like in the past. Few minutes later I
stood at the top. Obviously, I wanted to try the sit too. I felt happy half and
half. Voyager sit, rated fb 8B+, was still waiting for its first repetitions
after almost 9 years. This was obviously
my goal which I have always kept a bit hidden until the ascent of the stand. I
rested and I took a while to realize how many days I waited for. After a bit of
relax, I began to work the first part, that counts 5 moves more using the beta
I figured out. Beta was clear, so I opted to rest for a second time, trying to
make a first go from the bottom. The sun came out, it was warmer but still nice
to attempt. I sat on the pads and I
started to climb searching for the flow. I moved to the stand part really well,
then I lost a bit this flow in the central section. I reached the crux, where
my mind ordered to come back into the good focus. I did it and I kept my body
on. I knew only three moves were missing, two of them pretty okay. I fast got to
the last, where I missed the stand version in 2010. In less than a second I
managed to realize I was on the last move, on my first and probably last go
(since it is really sharp) and I was in the same situation of 5 years ago. I
was tired and just my mind could have made a difference. It luckily drove my
hand to the last decent hold, I brought my feet back on the wall and I only had
to move to the jugs. I reached the top, I felt amazing. I looked at my tips, one
of them was bleeding. It was really the first and the only possible shot. The
loop came to an end and my story with Voyager too. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The day
later the temperatures increased a little bit and it was actually the last
sunny day of the trip. It rained until the last morning, when it dried up and I could sent “The Storm” 7B+,
one of the best essential problem ever. Another piece of the bouldering
history. Time flew like usual and it was time to leave. I really
want to say a big thanks to Giulia; without her this trip and, voyager in particular, would have not been possible on my own. Hope to come back soon in this country
and enjoy the many things we couldn’t visit because of the weather.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Here you
can find some pictures of me and Giulia climbing on the Gritstone and at the
legendary School Room. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixJyXjztIS2lKi_mco_kmHC7htHRaWunSIrpcVYVQYjyAV9ro22q74o4d1xH0mtg2NSMHiadRt1mKomcFvg9uUayQYxtyOAY7FMVTA5cR1iD5MNeBWF1tENOTDKbuTlBzVGmJlbdPnM3o/s1600/DSC_9329+m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixJyXjztIS2lKi_mco_kmHC7htHRaWunSIrpcVYVQYjyAV9ro22q74o4d1xH0mtg2NSMHiadRt1mKomcFvg9uUayQYxtyOAY7FMVTA5cR1iD5MNeBWF1tENOTDKbuTlBzVGmJlbdPnM3o/s640/DSC_9329+m.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Voyager sit, Paek District (UK). Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBlOqfZYsi4db_vJZdSXtmYF_GJXiCYCX_WySvFzXaXdK2WJNBS4-9FvnQ7tocn5t_JkMJVw3yEdwinHtd-ImPwbsV5tXd5gMu-YJkWLcIZw5XZjcRv8gsESGhn_t9I6lZ0l0jlBTsp0/s1600/DSC_9360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBlOqfZYsi4db_vJZdSXtmYF_GJXiCYCX_WySvFzXaXdK2WJNBS4-9FvnQ7tocn5t_JkMJVw3yEdwinHtd-ImPwbsV5tXd5gMu-YJkWLcIZw5XZjcRv8gsESGhn_t9I6lZ0l0jlBTsp0/s640/DSC_9360.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giuly on Cloe's arete, Peak District (UK).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TLxZRkeCxVpiiaTlVX_KDDFbR21__YGytonW7kR4GfrkmLcci4ms6-b296gv52XsOxsESslCNZydx6QpCyLDR1WcfCSoUcdXoDv50wqr48cDDKA_s6APIVCy0_2OSNknZl_wXMdhcY8/s1600/DSC_9367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5TLxZRkeCxVpiiaTlVX_KDDFbR21__YGytonW7kR4GfrkmLcci4ms6-b296gv52XsOxsESslCNZydx6QpCyLDR1WcfCSoUcdXoDv50wqr48cDDKA_s6APIVCy0_2OSNknZl_wXMdhcY8/s640/DSC_9367.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giuly on Slopy Pokey, Pick District (UK).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwy1RaPG2GpF7v-Ziyd3Ewv4mWMaK6vfM-VfMDIG-RRjHGzGhfAQMPvKUvlUhexHRB7ieFL9o0VJbHw5nymmAVkGyq_AbnqjI2swC5K67nXD5EPVsNKsFIhDCarJPyC4LQ-sR1mNqmv5E/s1600/DSC_9457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwy1RaPG2GpF7v-Ziyd3Ewv4mWMaK6vfM-VfMDIG-RRjHGzGhfAQMPvKUvlUhexHRB7ieFL9o0VJbHw5nymmAVkGyq_AbnqjI2swC5K67nXD5EPVsNKsFIhDCarJPyC4LQ-sR1mNqmv5E/s640/DSC_9457.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Storm, Peak District (UK). Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVANnZP7B5aP_VneaCHOz682r_Ii80d5GqsODV6I_yVpxej-Q4fqEsNNdfpeWVX1HcXrptLN-Fww3GcWyQhp0ADcGLh0lR7HqGJzMYKD_9y4Qg4em2fdkuNHfBs5IeQ0MmY1_WOI7-F2s/s1600/befunky+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVANnZP7B5aP_VneaCHOz682r_Ii80d5GqsODV6I_yVpxej-Q4fqEsNNdfpeWVX1HcXrptLN-Fww3GcWyQhp0ADcGLh0lR7HqGJzMYKD_9y4Qg4em2fdkuNHfBs5IeQ0MmY1_WOI7-F2s/s640/befunky+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feel the Pinch, School Room (Sheffiled). Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVmMGMDJrJKSbB0fLHY4XGloN-KZ2AFmnk2ihRdcb7QQvZ4SgObHK-iR85FL8P_C9Uq2BJJcxSdNCzCvDt3LtY6gSSyDde8ox0xsODItYTgRuZlfguMYGjrBlUK9Pgo1NYy7GtPtdrl4/s1600/befunky+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtVmMGMDJrJKSbB0fLHY4XGloN-KZ2AFmnk2ihRdcb7QQvZ4SgObHK-iR85FL8P_C9Uq2BJJcxSdNCzCvDt3LtY6gSSyDde8ox0xsODItYTgRuZlfguMYGjrBlUK9Pgo1NYy7GtPtdrl4/s640/befunky+%25283%2529.jpg" width="508" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Feel The Pinch, School Room (Sheffiled). Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-61785805875063461602015-09-03T20:26:00.001+02:002015-09-08T12:54:32.691+02:00Rocklands 2015<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riverside, Rocklands (SA).</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">Two seasons have elapsed since the last time I was
in Rocklands, the renowned area in the Western Cape region of South Africa. That
trip was actually my first time out of Europe and was also a good reaching point for my first year as a full-time climber. I
was excited the day I left and the trip was brilliant for different aspects. Despite
I didn’t like some sides of the area, like the low quality below the V9
frontier, I remember a lot of positive things: some good boulders in the
highest difficulty range, the climate which was often perfect, the breathtaking
landscapes and the cost of life which was cheap for us. These things made me
keen to come back as soon as possible, even because the potential for new stuff
is probably bigger than anywhere else. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The climbing
style in Rocklands is anyway really simple. It is way simpler than in every
other place I have ever climbed. Nothing is difficult. The only thing you do is
to grab a hold, which most of the time is a good crimp, and pull it as strong
as you can. Rarely you have to figure out something technical or the climbing seldom
offers brilliant moves like spicy arêtes or sequences where minimal details are
the key. Everything is basic and repeated over and over. This is something I
like and I don’t at the sometime. I guess in some cases is really fun and nice.
Even the hardest problems are of course difficult for the strength, but super
simple for the reading and for their interpretation. After a while, I miss the
true bouldering and the gym style of the area start to get me bored; this is
the negative side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35a1PSG8PPUOQQfPwpmYorq3R4JC14R6wUtiB0S_eJARdz1YuhYzBAgTBUbPbFpekcQbKjPtNvLgYGStWE9FmWLlkcIkKZU33v-sdbKLre59APTYoV76qsYTPkMoM6NVGRUhM9n2tNuY/s1600/Lucertola.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35a1PSG8PPUOQQfPwpmYorq3R4JC14R6wUtiB0S_eJARdz1YuhYzBAgTBUbPbFpekcQbKjPtNvLgYGStWE9FmWLlkcIkKZU33v-sdbKLre59APTYoV76qsYTPkMoM6NVGRUhM9n2tNuY/s640/Lucertola.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Campground, Rocklands (SA).</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Max trying "Pinotage", Rocklands (SA).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYdmrN6_PF6iSQT7f_hw0_16OZdx9xv5g6jY2TbdPjK0QQzw8AMnIlDl2B2zidUYd2JapwuNyK7Bl_Mdx7B07tDnN0Bc3udpE5PjlrVyHLePN-On-pRwqGOe4YG5q4uYKq2_cauASC1sY/s640/Purple+nipple+clan.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="360" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Purple Nipple Clan" 8A, Rocklands (SA). Photo Max Buvoli</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">This year I
booked my flight really late, like one month before or maybe even less. Me and
Max, a friend of mine, opted to come down in July and just after booking I
immediately planned a program which worked well. I went to Silvretta for a
bunch of days before my trip and I could text myself after those 2 weeks
training. I felt positive, light and in a good shape. Skin was perfect and this
meant a lot to me. I just had troubles on the endurance and some specific moves
made my shoulders feel weak; The time between Silvretta and Rocklands was
anyway enough to recover this lack. We
landed on the 11st of August and we only have 20 days of climbing ahead. It was
short, but it was definitely better than spend another full month in the
terrible Italian summer. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Everything
started well like I desired: I felt light,
I got tough skin and I kept going into a positive flow. The first 4 days were
brilliant. We first went to 8 days rain sector where I finished the classic
“Golden Virginia” 8A and flashed “Monkey Buisiness” 8A+/B. Everything seemed to promise for a joyful
trip. The days after I jumped on some classics I left in 2013 and I briefly
tried one of my favorite problem ever i.e. “Black Eagle”. I wanted to check it
out to see if coming back later or not. Unfortunately this never happened.
After the first 4 days on, I took a day off; I wanted to start working on something
harder and to look for some new projects. I had many things I wanted to do and
I knew the time was pretty short.</div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Since the
first day of rest, everything started to go wrong; or better I couldn’t fix my
problems properly. I started to be sick for five days and I felt weak in some moments; In the same
period I seriously split my medium tip, for an Anthyidral bad use. I started to
be stressed at that stage, probably because I knew I was wasting some of the
few days I had. I should have simply looked after myself in the coldest nights
and use the Antihydral better. Good things for the future!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"> I anyway started working on “Speed of Sound”,
a problem rated 8B+ and freed by Jimmy Webb. This problem sadly took me all the
trip long. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">At the first
session I still had two weeks ahead; all of them have been spent working on
“Speed of sound”. It took me 4 full days
of effort in which I exclusively tried
that line for 6 or 7 hours per day. The first session I had tape on, while
during the second day I also split my index. I kept working with double tape,
but I knew I had to stop and recover my fingers properly if I wanted to climb
it. I had already spent two precious days, so I wanted to finish it before the
end of the trip. The routine was like: intensive session on “Speed of Sound”,
climbing on easier lines with tape the day after, resting 3 days and then repeat
this loop again. Everything was mentally frustrating for me. I knew that after
the resting time I could have 5 or 6 goes on the boulder, and then I had to
work the sequences with tape on. The third session went good, falling at the
very end before starting bleeding. I put tape on my tips again and I could try
the end for a while. I figured out a smarter way to climb the upper moves and I
knew that if I could have reached that point again, I wouldn’t have fallen
anymore. I removed the tape off, I looked at my fingers, I looked at the
boulder and I set my mind off until the next session, trying to keep the
positivity. I started another resting loop; it was really long to sit on the
pads all day, waiting for a bit of skin. The game started to stress my mind
more than what I expected: I was in Rocklands and I had spent lot of time on a
single problem. I still had time ahead to check some other stuff; but at the same time I
would have not recovered enough to work properly “Speed of Sound”, so I would
have thrown away one week of hard effort. I opted to choose the hardest way for
myself: keeping on resting and keeping on believing in that ascent. I had no
chance: I would have climbed it or I would have basically wasted the whole
trip. I got a risk put 1700 €, three weeks trip, 20.000 km on a single boulder
problem. A boulder problem that at the end I didn’t like so much, but at the
point it was more like a personal game between me and my mind. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPXfJyfNL_Z8zfzEuKFwC4wg0yvZrmcKO5_GHnHsJ4uQ_axySYIurUeIpVP10YAVGia61DHnmiLypzgiz3pMdPZNKYaBHoLe3fsrOG5hhS0xL8kgKVeK7gbZFqV1a4bAGE4gIUHTWi4-w/s1600/Speed+of+sound+%25282%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPXfJyfNL_Z8zfzEuKFwC4wg0yvZrmcKO5_GHnHsJ4uQ_axySYIurUeIpVP10YAVGia61DHnmiLypzgiz3pMdPZNKYaBHoLe3fsrOG5hhS0xL8kgKVeK7gbZFqV1a4bAGE4gIUHTWi4-w/s640/Speed+of+sound+%25282%2529.jpeg" width="404" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Speed of Sound" 8B+, Rocklands (SA). Photo Giulia Agatea</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">The third
session was on Monday the 24<sup>th</sup>. Then the day after we went to
Campground where I climbed on easier stuff before another resting period. The
plan was simple: resting Wednesday and Thursday, try hard on Friday, then resting
on Saturday to have the last possible chance on Sunday, before leaving. Doing
this I would have had 5 total sessions for Speed of sound, 2 of them still ahead.
I honestly thought that one would have been enough, but knowing about another possibility
made me more relaxed and positive. Unfortunately the forecast damaged my plans.
On Thursday the weather forecasted rain for Friday and Sunday, while Saturday was
supposed to be a sunny day with temps between 14 and 24. I knew I only had a
couple of shots before starting bleeding and then with tape the sending would
have been much harder for me. I hence rested on Friday as well and the pressure
started to make me bad. Saturday was the day. I woke up and I immediately went
at the window to see if the rain of the previous night passed by. I wasn’t worried,
I trusted in the forecast. I wouldn’t have . It was desperately foggy and quite
wet outside. I felt nervous. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We had our
usual breakfast and we drove to the pass. Going to the Saddle, the sector where
speed of sound is, the path takes like an hour. The fog was thick. The rhino
was visible at 5 meters only. I have never seen Rocklands in that scenario. I opted
to postpone my warm up, praying to see blue sky soon. After a couple of hours I
was warming and the fog started to fade off. We went to Roadside to finish my
warm up on “Sunset Arete”. Max climbed “Pinch of herb” 7C+, while the sky was fully
azure; his send and the clear air made me much more positive than the early morning.
We hiked to the saddle in our silence. Beyond how the result would have been,
that was my last time on the way. I got under the boulder and I cooled down my
temperatures; I sheltered in the shade of the overhang and my skin started to be
colder. I made a quick warm up for the exit, re-climbing the new way I checked
the session before. I didn’t want to check the other moves to save skin; but I
would have liked. Everything seemed anyway good, just the skin was more moist
than the last time. I wondered why, but an answer would have not made any
difference. Pressure was high and I decided to break it with the first go. I
climbed so bad and roughly, missing the middle crux. I rested and I started
again. I felt too nervous and my feet slightly shake in the sequence. I grabbed
the heinous crack and I got into the hardest move but I quickly hit the pad. My
mind was not following my body. I had to stop and set it off. After 45 minutes
I sat again under the boulder and the anxiety passed by. I felt my mind was
searching for the positive stream and it miraculously found it. I was on, I
felt a turning point and I began once more. I had a really bad go, with a quick
finger snap in the easy section. I fall down, but I was much happier than ever,
because I reached a good flow with my head. I rested few minutes and I started
with a even better focus. I reached the crux, I went over and I got in the
changing feet. I felt stronger; I was climbing into the flow and the flow lead
me to the lip. I did the mantle at half past 4 PM, with only a bunch of hours
before leaving. I was happy about all the process. All the resting days have
been paid off with a single shot and an intense moment. At the beginning of the trip I had totally
other expectations, definitively much more positive. But the things roll
differently many times and I had to change my plans. This experience will make
me stronger on the red point mode; and since it is one of my weakest point, it
is what I actually needed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Trip is
over now and it has been good to live this “bad” events and to overcome some
mental problems. It has been curios to me to see how some aspects has changed
between 2013 until and now. I would have never been able to work so intensively
on a single problem in the previous seasons and this is definitively a good
point. I am pretty excited for the fall in Europe now. I have many projects to
do, things to develop and testpieces to repeat. Hopefully the temperatures will
drop in the next weeks!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpY3JZasQRi_i2LJ_lRscLBRob8meTDiEorftJihiVzgQ3VmxAxrbw8cjwmjQ_DQS6303SnVQjOeP9qMleXVYz_jbFoFMQ3vUaE6Wlg7KZZNVWU8TRKLYVrAJkYU6dVk_pOzi72bnOQg/s1600/Cedar+Spine+%25283%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbpY3JZasQRi_i2LJ_lRscLBRob8meTDiEorftJihiVzgQ3VmxAxrbw8cjwmjQ_DQS6303SnVQjOeP9qMleXVYz_jbFoFMQ3vUaE6Wlg7KZZNVWU8TRKLYVrAJkYU6dVk_pOzi72bnOQg/s640/Cedar+Spine+%25283%2529.JPG" width="460" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Max trying "Cedar Spine", Rocklands (SA)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3XL4u1pqIMQTQoRoKKlpZ9VxtucA2h2Ws25JKKZdyln9WNQl410yvsLe62qym5wNfcSyzBUHAx3PFQBhBEBNQOyQ292nft2_dtla_UseTGLwTwf9aYEkJ5aygRSv8KmX2RMX6zECvQVM/s1600/Rocklands+%25281%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3XL4u1pqIMQTQoRoKKlpZ9VxtucA2h2Ws25JKKZdyln9WNQl410yvsLe62qym5wNfcSyzBUHAx3PFQBhBEBNQOyQ292nft2_dtla_UseTGLwTwf9aYEkJ5aygRSv8KmX2RMX6zECvQVM/s640/Rocklands+%25281%2529.jpeg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leopard prints in Kleinfontein, Rocklands(SA).</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roadside, Rocklands (SA).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzB27Sd0BsC6Sb-dUhYdJo3TbSiJiZtLEeo832dIVcM2-g-ExPk5krmF5UJtn1wXB3HwlGxlJnfPkwF1MhZWEzLjCU6oF3SLog7z6Qtx5lByG9N265Bdxi-ByWAv6Fd2Xuy2KKNgiA1Cc/s1600/Time+out+%25282%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzB27Sd0BsC6Sb-dUhYdJo3TbSiJiZtLEeo832dIVcM2-g-ExPk5krmF5UJtn1wXB3HwlGxlJnfPkwF1MhZWEzLjCU6oF3SLog7z6Qtx5lByG9N265Bdxi-ByWAv6Fd2Xuy2KKNgiA1Cc/s640/Time+out+%25282%2529.jpeg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Time Out" 8A+, Rocklands (SA). Photo Giulia Agatea</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZIZpqBvEMAFBk0UCKPdvooG6TTeAdYUKze8jCtTbA__8day-D6U8BcUMaGPL866_H0t8Y0SKhv7vT6LGnTo5MsjW-UXVl6Q9YD9BS4hPBk65Yxs-jENhTx89oA8Li1OOiVDR53x6eq9w/s1600/Ulan+Bator+%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZIZpqBvEMAFBk0UCKPdvooG6TTeAdYUKze8jCtTbA__8day-D6U8BcUMaGPL866_H0t8Y0SKhv7vT6LGnTo5MsjW-UXVl6Q9YD9BS4hPBk65Yxs-jENhTx89oA8Li1OOiVDR53x6eq9w/s640/Ulan+Bator+%25281%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Ulan Bator" 7B, Rocklands (SA). Photo Giulia Agatea</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giulia trying "Demi Lune", Rocklands (SA). Photo Max Buvoli</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-27020052291266601602015-06-17T17:01:00.000+02:002015-06-17T17:10:56.651+02:00Grampians. Second part.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSFBK7n3XJNN5wPLuXftw67mGA2jTAMOaUAoDMOKB9j3eZnERZ1rcU8aP4rW8BIvuseUiCzUvYON7mJhNYZDYvzcIh2bKMDguuux34TCpOsw3gQP3uj91LXYxWDUEYjem9aKvxFt3XUQk/s1600/Nights.+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25285%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="423" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSFBK7n3XJNN5wPLuXftw67mGA2jTAMOaUAoDMOKB9j3eZnERZ1rcU8aP4rW8BIvuseUiCzUvYON7mJhNYZDYvzcIh2bKMDguuux34TCpOsw3gQP3uj91LXYxWDUEYjem9aKvxFt3XUQk/s640/Nights.+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25285%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buandik, Southern Grampians (AUS).</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US">I am
introducing what it is the second update about my visit at the Grampians National Park, VIC,
Australia. Another trip is gone by and it is time to reflect about the last
period and the first part of the year, in meanwhile I am getting use to the middle summer temperatures;
Something that I really don’t like to do after a cool autumn. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Six weeks
in a place are quite a lot; you should have time to visit most of the areas,
make an idea about the potential to discover, enjoy the climb, get stressed by
hard ascents and get bored by the rain; at least this was in the Grampians,
since the rain was absolutely a constant in many days.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This trip
has been basically focused on repeating boulders for me, I hence looked at the classics and climbed them by knowing the
ways used by the previous climbers.
Having the web handy, you can easily get all the information about how to reach
the area, how the possible betas might be and there is nothing really interesting
or exciting to tell. I have to admit that this way is getting me bored and
bored after a while and I feel better going out and think more about projects
to figure out or catching for a new king 5 star line. This is why in the future
I would like to make more trips to unknown areas, to climb on problems with few
ascents or to discover new hidden lines.
The reasons which lead me to Grampians to repeat only where basically two. On one side I wanted to
go there with the idea to make a first check at the place. I would have like to
see what has been developed so far, to repeat the classics and to check the new
age lines of Nalle and Dave. Secondly, since it was my first time, I hadn’t no
idea about how the sectors would have been, where the boulders where located,
the approaching ways , the locations, the distances and so on. I knew how it
was on the paper, but not in the reality.
Moreover, staying in Stawell, It took 1 hour driving to get to the best
areas and these facts pushed me to chose the comfortable way to go out and
repeating only, more than prepare some new pieces of rock which require more
time and energies. Analyzing what has
been done and having now a better localization about the rocks, I have a good
reason to come back and getting into the discovering mode. At least this is my
goal for the next time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">During the second part of the trip I had a better
view about all these established problems. I wrote down a little list to
organize what I wanted to work and to check, letting aside the crap lines and
the things that weren’t worth. Obviously. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The
Northern areas are sadly reduced in two little sectors, since a fire made the
climb forbidden in many off-limits zones. I think I had noted this in the
previous blog-spot. So, in the North there is Campground boulders, a pretty bad
place where to go bouldering and the area of Trackside-Citadel-Upper caves. The
first has been removed at once, the
boulders are definitively not inviting. The second counts many mediocre
boulders and few good stuff where to climb. Unfortunately, it is not so wide
and the fire presented the Northern part
much smaller than what truly would be. Despite this, even in the second period,
we passed some days in these locations, finishing the few good problems able to tickle
my curiosity. I had one single day ascent for “Pigeon Superstition” V13 and
subsequently for Alex Megos’ “Sultan of Swing” V13, located in a wonderful
scenario at the top of the Taipan wall. Up there, you can have an amazing view
and a good taste of Australia. The “Wave rock” V12, the best looking problems
of Trackside, still eluded me hardly and I could not make it. Its sequence
seemed to be too weird for my wrist, since the crux evolves into a super
contorted two-fingers undercling which was impossible to feel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">On the
other side of the Park, the Southern region offered us something more than the Northern.
Although the quality is good down here, it is nothing very special and out of
the lines. I found it quite overrated honestly; I mean, it is definitively out of the world best for my personal opinion.
Unfortunately, our stay was 115 km from Mt. Fox and Buandik as I told and we
usually got there for more days in a row. This obviously depended a lot on the
weather: good for more days meant South; uncertain meant single days at the
North and bad forecast meant more resting days at Stawell. This was how the
weekly routine worked. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The days in
the South were always very pleasant though. They were always characterized by
hikes, engulfed spots into the wild,
sunsets up on breathtaking sceneries, camping life, nights around the fire and
shining stars during the nights. These were definitively the moments which made
the proper Australian atmosphere and which really made me feel alive in this
country. The boulders in this area are better than in the North in my opinion
and some lines had been set under the “to-do” voice of my list. First of all,
“Owning the weather” in Mt Fox, the line I put more energies and passion into.
The battle to send it consisted in a hard understanding of my skin statements,
in choosing the right part of the day when to work it and having a lot of
patience between an attempt and the other. For three sessions I missed these
elements and the ascent was hard to execute. Finally on the 4<sup>th</sup>
session I put the single aspects together, making a good weapon to win it: good
skin, cold temperature, right moments, physical progresses and relaxed mind. The
ascent almost came spontaneously, with a
surprise taste at the top. What I am asking is: is the surprise more linked to the ascent itself
or maybe more to the fact I was able to collect all these little things
together? I still don’t know, but the victory on this line made me light and
happy at the same time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In Buandik,
after making some good classics like “Simplicity” V11 and “Rootarted” V12, I
got interested in a piece of white/grey/pink immaculate sandstone, which had
been attempted by Ian Dory, Dave Graham and Nalle Hukkataival few seasons ago.
Ricky gave me a huge help to clean the upper part from the moss, and he gave me
lot of push-ups to identify the proper way. After the first day, the resume was
anyway deluding: 2h hours of working. 8 moves done ( 6 of them really easy). 2
moves with no idea about the solution. On the second day, I somehow had clearer
ideas and I quickly got my beta for the top part, exactly where the difficulty
is concentrated. Those slopy features require good skin, good temps and no sun. I
had to stay quiet and to relax my mind as much as I could; I knew it was
possible within the day, but I had to manage the energies and the skin like a
super precision chemist manage the right doses. The long rest was preparing the
atmosphere for a powerful go; Ricky and I both knew about the high
possibilities. I turned my mind off and I climbed into the flow. I reached the
slopers perfectly, I stuck the crimp and I felt I was really solid, both
physically and mentally. I set my body for the last move which consist in grabbing
the last elusive jug and my heel popped out. I felt smashed on the mats with
nothing in my hands. From that stage, I dropped into a no-success mental zone,
where I couldn’t feel the slopers anymore. Two hours later, the dark came and
an inner voice said it was time to postpone. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Third
session on. It was time to send and the fact made me a bit stressful.
Temperatures were perfect, my skin not fantastic but even not bad. The first go was a bummer and I felt out of
the proper focus again. I felt really worse than the previous session. After a
while, I started feel my muscles lighter and relaxed; I probably got aware
about the difficult that the boulder was requiring me. This fact made me more
quiet. I started the easy climbing with another mood and I got into the section
again. I stuck the crimp, a thing I didn’t think I could on that go; I barely
did, but I grabbed. The last move is still heinous, but I found myself with the
good hold and I quickly went into the upper easy slab, which leads to the summit. I had climbed a new one and I
could decide for a new name! I couldn’t wait. I called it “Il Mancino di
Bristol”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Between an
ascent and another the time ran quickly to the end of the trip. In a blink of
an eye, I found myself sitting on a chair again, waiting for a flight, writing
some words about the time in the Down under. I flew back home and I posted what
I wrote in the journey. Despite Grampians deluded my expectation (maybe too
high expectations), I felt happy about how this first part of the year has
gone. I see many reasons for which I should come back here. The first one is
definitively because I would like to open my vision more, searching for what
there is beyond the already climbed lines, going beyond the known and the
simple, into the new and the exciting. And, I am pretty sure, Australia may be
a good place to do this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Here the
ascents’ list of the second part and a bunch of pictures</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Il Mancino di Bristol V14 (FA) **</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Owning the
Weather V14 2<sup>nd</sup> asc. ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Pigeon
Superstition V13 **<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Sultan of
Swing V13 2<sup>nd</sup> asc. ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Rule Number
1 V13 ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Rootarted
V12/13 3<sup>rd</sup> asc. ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Point break
V12 3<sup>rd</sup> asc. **<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Diagonal Highway
V11/12 ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The
Roobiks’ Cube V11 *<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Simplicity
V11 ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Dead Heat
V11 (flash) ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJR5TFwfm-Q-t5TA-4VxIUv7jxrfo8CsdRFSbOrbFDKWhkDpgVtR7W3TpyHTfPjzvgjCatwMZSfw66mIzoiH4GJcPgOGi3hqM3i0pXmVi0BRj-RPfJgNa3XWuXRzJAcnMu7YepMa1jWnI/s1600/Riccardo+tot%25C3%25B2+Monetta+on+Great+expectation+V9%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJR5TFwfm-Q-t5TA-4VxIUv7jxrfo8CsdRFSbOrbFDKWhkDpgVtR7W3TpyHTfPjzvgjCatwMZSfw66mIzoiH4GJcPgOGi3hqM3i0pXmVi0BRj-RPfJgNa3XWuXRzJAcnMu7YepMa1jWnI/s640/Riccardo+tot%25C3%25B2+Monetta+on+Great+expectation+V9%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25281%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ricky on "Great Expectation" V9, Grampians (AUS).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5QMLHhvHy6BcNxTbqBh7PVHuYJxxwmr9JoeOoTRO_Ep_ZY9qAkfn6WJTdR5X8O-ToskJeHG2INtzzobmUVLxF2klAAB7JG_1EsPtY3p1jsTFZLMAxIwD79wM6vYDR8z0_HlGc0hG3_Zw/s1600/Riccardo+tot%25C3%25B2+monetta+on+The+Outsider+V11%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5QMLHhvHy6BcNxTbqBh7PVHuYJxxwmr9JoeOoTRO_Ep_ZY9qAkfn6WJTdR5X8O-ToskJeHG2INtzzobmUVLxF2klAAB7JG_1EsPtY3p1jsTFZLMAxIwD79wM6vYDR8z0_HlGc0hG3_Zw/s640/Riccardo+tot%25C3%25B2+monetta+on+The+Outsider+V11%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529+%25282%2529.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ricky on "The Outsider" V11, Grampians (AUS).</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDcjv7qTxEYZ1emYMUK8sJ_RZtS8j5Z6UXPty88sKWzLkWLOv9B-R_3B_TANwWf-vq8poa_J6k-L3-P1r987V65PYFyEZgId6ezNDR3AyUALO1g9Nb8nq-_9z2xct6yK-KcZGWRFJ-Kc/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Diagonal+Highway+V11-12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528vertical+life+mag%2529+%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFDcjv7qTxEYZ1emYMUK8sJ_RZtS8j5Z6UXPty88sKWzLkWLOv9B-R_3B_TANwWf-vq8poa_J6k-L3-P1r987V65PYFyEZgId6ezNDR3AyUALO1g9Nb8nq-_9z2xct6yK-KcZGWRFJ-Kc/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Diagonal+Highway+V11-12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528vertical+life+mag%2529+%25284%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Diagonal Highway" V11/12, Grampians (AUS). Photo Ross Taylor (Vertical Life Mag)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi510ndcUtx7nSnvkSqdg2iEnzZBO7YhsucRJ-wlZ6HWYJFeCO7O5uQZjyhP2qpT7qP-j8g3YVcts8z5ejtvuJCPsoIEEGq6y17EiEf8CFtK022dItGXDfEKgV27i9evdkgCcfx4cHc4mo/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Diagonal+Highway+V11-12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528vertical+life+mag%2529+%25285%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi510ndcUtx7nSnvkSqdg2iEnzZBO7YhsucRJ-wlZ6HWYJFeCO7O5uQZjyhP2qpT7qP-j8g3YVcts8z5ejtvuJCPsoIEEGq6y17EiEf8CFtK022dItGXDfEKgV27i9evdkgCcfx4cHc4mo/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Diagonal+Highway+V11-12%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528vertical+life+mag%2529+%25285%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">"Diagonal Highway" V11/12, Grampians (AUS). Photo Ross Taylor (Vertical Life Mag)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFUcEr9WTO3cDvZbYVRrlexMf-YjKdncWcB6z-QT4mtHI8KDSjkOXFJynndREuRkj2rPkuAURKrAI3lIw6NbFj6HcO1Mbx2lUUKYQbbTrZcSpeqZq2DBLvrBKMA85J7s3G0vkdkgGxBlo/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Il+Mancino+di+Bristol+V14+FA%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528Vertical+Life+Mag%2529+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFUcEr9WTO3cDvZbYVRrlexMf-YjKdncWcB6z-QT4mtHI8KDSjkOXFJynndREuRkj2rPkuAURKrAI3lIw6NbFj6HcO1Mbx2lUUKYQbbTrZcSpeqZq2DBLvrBKMA85J7s3G0vkdkgGxBlo/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Il+Mancino+di+Bristol+V14+FA%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528Vertical+Life+Mag%2529+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Il Mancino di Bristol" FA, Grampians (AUS). Photo Ross Taylor (Vertical Life Mag)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWxpHsmS_4_Z8fFDOCHjDXOVbX_21RHcwZV6WXfehr43XOX3DRWXLgBgVjLR4zC_Pp1StPNw-z4_E_i8Pjc8A0mMTYDo4hE_IH3QAPbUEAyApw14un4aGk64wjUHshHPlhil_eaBkptw/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Il+Mancino+di+Bristol+V14+FA%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528Vertical+Life+Mag%2529+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWxpHsmS_4_Z8fFDOCHjDXOVbX_21RHcwZV6WXfehr43XOX3DRWXLgBgVjLR4zC_Pp1StPNw-z4_E_i8Pjc8A0mMTYDo4hE_IH3QAPbUEAyApw14un4aGk64wjUHshHPlhil_eaBkptw/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Il+Mancino+di+Bristol+V14+FA%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528Vertical+Life+Mag%2529+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">"Il Mancino di Bristol" FA, Grampians (AUS). Photo Ross Taylor (Vertical Life Mag)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeJkCOaITKT5LP2llv75hZV-nGCJMgEHhT3w-x7yzT1azFMcT2iZe7jCVuJ1eTKUGQOQR4nKfZi6FYk3lq86arWtHLkirUyJH903cg865Y3I2SFJ4OFdNSRd8Jmv3vWlZufXjGqNxDaVk/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Rootarted+V12-13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528Vertical+Life+Mag%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeJkCOaITKT5LP2llv75hZV-nGCJMgEHhT3w-x7yzT1azFMcT2iZe7jCVuJ1eTKUGQOQR4nKfZi6FYk3lq86arWtHLkirUyJH903cg865Y3I2SFJ4OFdNSRd8Jmv3vWlZufXjGqNxDaVk/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Rootarted+V12-13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528Vertical+Life+Mag%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Rootarted" V12, Grampians (AUS). <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Photo Ross Taylor (Vertical Life Mag)</span></td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTDoJ97RF6iQXbnLvwsmO3zgTJghE6PW2kQcSYQJOA_lKYPK7tMw_mkbDquxx06iLMdQPl2_C_UoxaRN12kgkejoadN9hs09Hbkn0zVp2NBWHESHbT7ckCc5_16QZN-vyMebSIl0tE2gE/s1600/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Rule+Number+1+V13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528Vertical+Life+Mag%2529+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTDoJ97RF6iQXbnLvwsmO3zgTJghE6PW2kQcSYQJOA_lKYPK7tMw_mkbDquxx06iLMdQPl2_C_UoxaRN12kgkejoadN9hs09Hbkn0zVp2NBWHESHbT7ckCc5_16QZN-vyMebSIl0tE2gE/s640/Niccolo%2527+Ceria+on+Rule+Number+1+V13%252C+Grampians+%2528AUS%2529.+Photo+Ross+Taylor+%2528Vertical+Life+Mag%2529+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Rule Number 1" V13, Grampians (AUS). <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Photo Ross Taylor (Vertical Life Mag)</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-90391485742063638142015-05-25T00:17:00.002+02:002015-06-14T01:41:02.011+02:00Grampians. First part.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Many
thoughts spontaneously appear in mind when you hear rumors about Australia. For
European people it is certainly one of the further destination where to go and
one of the most iconic country we usually desire to put foot on. Kangaroos,
Outback, deserts, coast life, Ayers Rock, koalas are just few of the images
which spring in our mind once you think
about this land. The charm of the coast is also great to think; Life and green
nature on the border, wilderness and desert inside the huge continent. For a totally focused boulder person like me,
Australia also means Grampians, which has been one of the longer “must” places at
the top of my list. I have been waiting
many seasons to see this well-known type of rock and after few years of postponements,
2015 seemed to be a proper year to make my first check. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">After a quite
long but comfortable flight, I reached Melbourne last 4<sup>th</sup> May in the
evening, where Ricky, a friend of mine who is staying here since October 2014,
picked me up and lead me to Stawell.
This little village, located East just outside the Grampians National
Park, has been our home since 3 weeks and it will lodge us for the rest of our trip. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Since I planned
this travel in March, I immediately promise that this trip would have been just
a first check down here; I wanted to give a first look at this early world
class spot, in order to get another trip in the future, knowing a bit better
the logistic. I knew many good sectors would have been close after the fires and
I knew that I could not visit more than a half of the Northern “old” area. It
is definitively a bummer to be here and know that it is not possible to check
some locations like Hollow Mountain Cave, Project Wall, kindergarten or
Andersen. But nature has to make its own loop to recreate what has been lost
and this priority is actually much more important than seeing some stones.
Besides this little negative fact, even the weather has been pretty ugly during
the first weeks: many rainy days or days where we saw all the 4 seasons in 12
hours. The weather is of course bizarre; the sun shines and you go out, you
place the pads, you put some chalk on your hands and then the rain usually
comes. After 5 minutes the wind blows, the rock dries up quickly, you put the
pad, you start climbing and a new shower comes again. We saw these routines
many times in a row in many day; but as we all know, there is nothing to do to
remedy the bummer of the rain; just a
good dose of patience and hope can calm the disappointment. Some days the wind
anyway let us some windows of opportunities where we managed to climb some
problems. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Trackside,
the biggest northern area where the climbing is allowed, is the place where we
mostly have been to. The rock is nothing special, just normal quality
sandstone. Some boulders stand out from the mediocrity, but sure there is only a
little range of nice things among the drop-offs or the many gym-lines under the
roofs. One really good problem that
surprised my senses is “On the beach” V13. It reminded my thoughts to a well
known problems of Font, “Noir Desire”. Looking at it, it seems that someone has
shot against the wall some cannonballs, making some perfect holes which contain
perfect sculpted edges, pinches and slopers. This brilliant problem starts with
a tricky toe hooks section which leads into the crux part with an intensive
lock off to the last positive hold. After that, you only have to climb safely into
the no-fall terrain. It sits on a ledge, and it is basically forbidden any
mistakes once the hardest is done. Another really good problem in the North is Killian
Fishubber’s “Wave Rock” V12; A super
pure line with only the necessary poor
holds located in the middle of the shaped wave. Unfortunately, I am still
fighting to catch the proper beta and some moves are still missing. “Ammagamma”
V12, the super world class famous problem, aka the icon of Grampians bouldering,
is quite good although the first part is pathetic and heinous for the tall climbers,
since your ass is really close to the ground. This is pretty bad. My
expectations for this problems weren’t so high, but at least the rock and the
holds are pretty nice to climb.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">We also
spent some days in the Southern part, during the only periods of good weather.
This part of the Grampians is basically split into two big sectors, Mont Fox
and Buandik. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Mount Fox
is the place where everyone would probably like to go. There, you can find the
famous cobwebs sandstones, which at first look are pretty amazing. The boulders
are impressive to watch cause all of these features and textures. Unfortunately,
most of them don’t climb as good as they look in my opinion. The features are
everywhere, especially in relief, and this fact makes a lot of holds and
structures which make the lines less pure. Despite this, some problems are
anyway worthy. I have spent two sessions trying “Owning the weather”, which might be my
favorite one in the area. For its beauty, I am locating it at the top of my
goal projects, even if it seems to be too tough for my skin. The first day on
it, I was able to do all the single moves, while during the second session my
soft skin split on the medium finger tip and the game quickly came to end. I would definitively like to work a bit more
on this one. The right side of this prow is simply incredible and it would be
the best thing to bring at home once the travel will be over. I hope to recover
my split and grow up a tougher skin for this one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">During the
last weekend we spent 2 days in Buandik as well. The hiking is pretty long but definitely
worthy once you reach the top of the hill: great orange/grey sandstone balls
and breathtaking landscapes behind your back. It might be my favorite area here
in the Park; The rock has not a great
look as in Mont Fox, but it climbs better and I appreciate more the holds it
makes and the grain it has. “Cherry picking” is one of the world’s best for
sure and only this problem would be enough to make the hiking worth. If you
reckon that beyond this, there are other good hard lines to attempt, the things
become even more exciting to go up. We only checked half of the area and during
the next days in the south, we might go to check the other problems that have
been put up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Beside
climbing, the life we are making here is nothing too exciting. We bought
low-cost food, we eat it, we saw amazing sunsets and we always try to avoid
kangaroos which cut off our way. They are as cute as crazy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Here the
list of the lines I climbed in the first part of the trip<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Occam’s
Razors V13/14 ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Cherry
picking V13 *****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">On the
Beach V13 ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Ammagamma
V12/13 ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Last resort
V12/13 ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Zeus V12/13
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Kate Upton
V12 (flash) ***<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Red Mist
V12 **<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Lost for
life V11/12 *<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The
Outsider V11 ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">A puzzle
about belief V11 ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Love boulder
V11 ****<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Butcher
Choice V10 (flash) *</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Mad Max V10
(flash) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgtdO4O0IZkoMdl-fpjCV6V8dyQKclxY2hJH1WcXWDtu6snufHplO751Lpq0M-nAoE0ehqg7EO3yRoXO886bEr2aKDCLoniprWRbw9Ujgs0gB4kkVYScQNqo9QdDlYRq-8rwxvZ0g9Rc/s1600/A+puzzle+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRgtdO4O0IZkoMdl-fpjCV6V8dyQKclxY2hJH1WcXWDtu6snufHplO751Lpq0M-nAoE0ehqg7EO3yRoXO886bEr2aKDCLoniprWRbw9Ujgs0gB4kkVYScQNqo9QdDlYRq-8rwxvZ0g9Rc/s640/A+puzzle+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A puzzle about belief V11, Grampians (AUS). Screenshot from the video</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWfIh-3Ne-r6_O-0P42Hw3DTiaDZv-aL4m4CEBwbZwDaKNR5N3Cr0qe7lqc3gYzGVEFnuwWRFaesrYVASOWUv4reXV8-eEWE1njfnz2NzTNwIMabu9H-ti4mi5PbP1GgGqTl64DC6f3k4/s1600/Ammagamma+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWfIh-3Ne-r6_O-0P42Hw3DTiaDZv-aL4m4CEBwbZwDaKNR5N3Cr0qe7lqc3gYzGVEFnuwWRFaesrYVASOWUv4reXV8-eEWE1njfnz2NzTNwIMabu9H-ti4mi5PbP1GgGqTl64DC6f3k4/s640/Ammagamma+6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ammagamma V12/13, Grampians (AUS). <span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> Screenshot from the video</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCVIszof10-a3nyD57p87kajgJBjFwYCHjU4o-CKvY2TTLkYTDMqrez6W_dIYLl7jMWrloAjwYh5tgEeqRVF6hGyITof7sqU-x_4Xv1G2XQony-WNCYg9j2tGxtIdzXvnoZsg2QTEqBvE/s1600/CP+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCVIszof10-a3nyD57p87kajgJBjFwYCHjU4o-CKvY2TTLkYTDMqrez6W_dIYLl7jMWrloAjwYh5tgEeqRVF6hGyITof7sqU-x_4Xv1G2XQony-WNCYg9j2tGxtIdzXvnoZsg2QTEqBvE/s640/CP+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cherry Picking V13<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">, Grampians (AUS). </span><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> Screenshot from the video</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWXMlauI1BJHezWfYTkNmrAn1tya5uBsbn6QIF0Ip2XoqR-JfDzShVJx6pcXCKeAsAS90jY9GJFMGM8twRAP_lh_GcNPXwoJiT62vTCtjdeip2AiUKcyGGEa3Uxgo30kjYAjQDGXU1mQ8/s1600/Outsider+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWXMlauI1BJHezWfYTkNmrAn1tya5uBsbn6QIF0Ip2XoqR-JfDzShVJx6pcXCKeAsAS90jY9GJFMGM8twRAP_lh_GcNPXwoJiT62vTCtjdeip2AiUKcyGGEa3Uxgo30kjYAjQDGXU1mQ8/s640/Outsider+6.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Outsider V11<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">, Grampians (AUS). </span><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> Screenshot from the video</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxjA9d2_PlrTqXdzXRqol15knk04RcADE9DcJmdwgFJNm8WrMyImC4wJ2oEyXrO8Q7EqqKAKVREdvVeY5lZK6L5YcCv4D2cau9AMqVPzvqhFHayT_br3SXMZTQTWspAAtOojXuTmB6A94/s1600/On+the+beach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxjA9d2_PlrTqXdzXRqol15knk04RcADE9DcJmdwgFJNm8WrMyImC4wJ2oEyXrO8Q7EqqKAKVREdvVeY5lZK6L5YcCv4D2cau9AMqVPzvqhFHayT_br3SXMZTQTWspAAtOojXuTmB6A94/s640/On+the+beach.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the Beach V13<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">, Grampians (AUS). </span><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> Screenshot from the video</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4yf5GaGAgKlwJ7tq5u04T9ZxmiC-D_vDEMv8mjBzcp9KWvDPkhj87WTqfryLLEflCYGE9t6wMZ8bcjwuv5LfQjrrBpQaJB-8yABR-a9_6RqTBeg2ViZv4yJlDR7bDQm7C1C_vk32fSRs/s1600/OC+-+Copia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4yf5GaGAgKlwJ7tq5u04T9ZxmiC-D_vDEMv8mjBzcp9KWvDPkhj87WTqfryLLEflCYGE9t6wMZ8bcjwuv5LfQjrrBpQaJB-8yABR-a9_6RqTBeg2ViZv4yJlDR7bDQm7C1C_vk32fSRs/s640/OC+-+Copia.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Occam's razor V13/14<span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">, Grampians (AUS). </span><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;"> Screenshot from the video</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-734027297202643682015-05-01T18:11:00.000+02:002015-05-01T18:11:25.151+02:00Home Projects - April<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The month of April has run away in a blink of an eye.
There have been three weeks when I only wished to "produce" new
stuff, cleaning, completing old projects and searching for virgin pieces of
rock. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">During the last weeks in the Forest, I was starting to
be weary to hang out only repeating problems that everyone can try or climb and
I was losing the principal meaning of the inspiration. I wanted to do something
original, something that could have born from my vision. I started to think
about home; there were many stuff which I cared and which I desired to climb,
much more than going out and trying something in the wood of Font. This is why
the last part of the trip have been pretty boring in some aspects. The last
days I was quite worn, both physically and mentally, and it was definitely time
to rest and to recover the skin for my home's projects. Motivation was
extremely high. After few days on easy stuff I left Font and immediately the
day after the journey I stood under my main goal of the spring, i.e. the often
wet line in Valle Cervo ( a valley upon to the village where I live). This
giant bloc has always been seen with timorous eyes until the last April when I cleaned
it seriously and I saw it was doable. In autumn, after few sessions to figure
out the beta, I missed the easy upper part dropping out of the pads and I injured
the heel. Winter passed by and the psychological trauma started to fade. The
first day this year I was really focus and regenerated from the little "accident".
An eventual ascent would have meant oodles of positive feelings. First of all, it
would have been one of my best FA so far. Secondly I would have won the trauma
completely and, third point, I would have done the main project in the first
day. Excitation was really high; too much high. I had to calm down the enthusiasm
to avoid another bad fall. Rush always ruins things. The slightly rain which
came in the noon got me edgy, but at least the excessive enthusiasm was appeased.
The sun appeared again while a dry and cool wind started to blow. The rain gave
me the good mood; at 5PM everything was ready; dry holds, fresh air, 7 pads and
one spotter. My mind felt free and light. After few attempts in search of the right
body positions, I got the proper way again. I rested for a while, trying to
increase the good sensations further; I felt it possible and I was feeling
great. I started climbing the first section and for the first time in that day
I got into the middle sequence. I was breathing as much as I could, letting the
positive flow come inside me, replacing the negative memories of the past autumn.
I got the slab with the chalk bag this time and I was more prepared for doing it.
I pushed my soft shoes upon every crystal of the smears, I tried to climb into
the flow and I reached the sum. I linked the reckless project of home. I felt
alive.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT19ZHsNeQEqsZqxNXDrBeUjz3VtcB88qk_ez2eWY6PPMWWyNZhqLdeDDiKwbhxcfJJC4PcOeBQwB92JnMiYXC6YwA4Zuo2p_ghxrp27Qc_jHxCt1lJ5LHHcNiBDdwXOoUlVO3DaXLi2I/s1600/20150411_191028-01.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT19ZHsNeQEqsZqxNXDrBeUjz3VtcB88qk_ez2eWY6PPMWWyNZhqLdeDDiKwbhxcfJJC4PcOeBQwB92JnMiYXC6YwA4Zuo2p_ghxrp27Qc_jHxCt1lJ5LHHcNiBDdwXOoUlVO3DaXLi2I/s1600/20150411_191028-01.jpeg" height="640" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nichilismo, FA. Valle Cervo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">First project ticked. Many other ones were waiting.
The best lines I wanted to do were situated in Bavona and Donnas (Valle
d'Aosta), but both areas were too warm for an eventual climbing day. I bitterly
had to abandon and erase them from the plan. I anyway had other nice problems
to clean and try. I hence had two days of cleaning, brushing a true king line
on a orange diamond and another cool cave of pinches and flat holds. I
unfortunately hadn't the time and the occasion to attempt them; there is still
a bit of work to prepare them and their sizes require tons of pads and few spotters.
They will be postponed. Beyond this, I also climbed on some lines I found
during the past seasons, getting some progresses on the hardest lines of the
valley. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">After putting up a new line called "Little (s)wing"
in honor of Hendrix's classic, located in Champorcher, I had a short and
intensive peak in my shape. Skin was getting good, probably thanks to an antihydral
use; my body conditions were perfect and the motivation got the highest point
since I have been climbing. I was surprised. I climbed on the hardest projects of
the zone. Both of them are hard for my sizes and skills, and, before 10 days
ago, I couldn't do all the moves on both. Their styles are quite dissimilar.
The first one is an overhang with slopy crimps, insane gaston actions and
though footworks. It is relatively short; it counts 8/9 moves for the hands,
while other 10 for the feet. It is steep and every single move is really challenging.
The second one is up in the village of Gaby and at the first look it is quite
impressive. It is a perfect 90 degrees cut roof, 6 meters long with an
additional exit on a cool granite prow called "no way punk" for a
total of 22 moves. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Until last week I missed one specific move on both as
I said but after four days of work I completed all the single actions and I
started to get some link. The wall in Champorcher still remains a long project;
I felt I need a further step in my shape to complete it; While the big roof is
definitively possible within the year. Last day I missed the ascent after the
crux, where it is still hard but it is just a question of endurance. Working a
little bit more can be a really nice new one and it is getting really high in
the autumn list, when the temperature will be good again for that sector.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Now it is time to leave the home's project aside for a
while. It is time for some Grampians actions down under the world; but only 5
months are missing to the beginning of the autumn and I can't wait to try these
problems again.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Here some photos of the projects</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbj4Uaq_RSaD-VuZ4IFFXqw0DeUjPayhLvHx2o1w-Fff_iYZZZsT0iKdw7ivoz1CwO2FIc_4FeiqU4IU67Ko7uN4jQE5eBBrKxH2UP5hnFU6OMOTBUmYwWpaz0kSzOLU4vlZ0YVxOfxQ/s1600/...2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbj4Uaq_RSaD-VuZ4IFFXqw0DeUjPayhLvHx2o1w-Fff_iYZZZsT0iKdw7ivoz1CwO2FIc_4FeiqU4IU67Ko7uN4jQE5eBBrKxH2UP5hnFU6OMOTBUmYwWpaz0kSzOLU4vlZ0YVxOfxQ/s1600/...2.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working the crux of Champorcher project. Video still.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5i7gF0VSgp5s3Y4spETGaFTUlpwi0ThSl4QfLnzqFwtkqNAczNZd6TixgfjaHR_qi6deepDwtGJBtmS9HG_nA8bpNrvfpxmL8TfV0rufDbj6NlDZFjaam4_1T-gqMRhfEG45VljzQFg0/s1600/...2_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5i7gF0VSgp5s3Y4spETGaFTUlpwi0ThSl4QfLnzqFwtkqNAczNZd6TixgfjaHR_qi6deepDwtGJBtmS9HG_nA8bpNrvfpxmL8TfV0rufDbj6NlDZFjaam4_1T-gqMRhfEG45VljzQFg0/s1600/...2_1.JPG" height="316" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Working on Champorcher project. Video still.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioSFgYJHtInEefeyvtqP5SouPjfVWMhUyF4CitmE8L0E4LmwKTHmSCaTq1SE7UWVFlg_jQ5dsW3h_i9UOm_aUiQ0EpdtLm0qJtXWJyF7g-iMsjB_TZ1hbOvW07vKSGUx3UbKtrhLizDxA/s1600/...2_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioSFgYJHtInEefeyvtqP5SouPjfVWMhUyF4CitmE8L0E4LmwKTHmSCaTq1SE7UWVFlg_jQ5dsW3h_i9UOm_aUiQ0EpdtLm0qJtXWJyF7g-iMsjB_TZ1hbOvW07vKSGUx3UbKtrhLizDxA/s1600/...2_2.JPG" height="336" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working on the big roof, Gaby. Video still.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ufdgTqqh5hJNNy1D3Lv8cTVi0dyJfadet6ffPQVXuewbsaOB5i2ObRlCfNn3QJ5Y_DPuI23MOhXUUdRTkhIX0GnjoNRSc0cf3KpESRMWtFSHBegnuFDNw1FNPLVLf8S0vVLUKBmFhsM/s1600/...2_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ufdgTqqh5hJNNy1D3Lv8cTVi0dyJfadet6ffPQVXuewbsaOB5i2ObRlCfNn3QJ5Y_DPuI23MOhXUUdRTkhIX0GnjoNRSc0cf3KpESRMWtFSHBegnuFDNw1FNPLVLf8S0vVLUKBmFhsM/s1600/...2_3.JPG" height="324" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Working on the big roof, Gaby. Video still.</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-30621222351382520282015-04-16T11:46:00.000+02:002015-04-16T11:47:16.124+02:00The Forest. Third part.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin5nzC_pmirosJ0l5GbuhNEwh9LPFS1ZodMwOf72VBAacHkbJpTfwSlR8f3PF1mtlbmCBpO6Sir1e2qcFHySI7apz1TfLsUEcMkJmaBmsc20fsvxV1BELGqmaj8RP1p7EVlyq0pvGVbwY/s1600/elephant+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin5nzC_pmirosJ0l5GbuhNEwh9LPFS1ZodMwOf72VBAacHkbJpTfwSlR8f3PF1mtlbmCBpO6Sir1e2qcFHySI7apz1TfLsUEcMkJmaBmsc20fsvxV1BELGqmaj8RP1p7EVlyq0pvGVbwY/s1600/elephant+(1).jpg" height="388" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Forest at Elephant, Fontainebleau. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">After 40
days, the last part of my stay has been characterized by twisted emotions and
contradictory feelings. On one hand, I reckoned how many days I had left,
thinking about home, projects, resting and resetting my mind from the hard
stuff. On the other side, the climate of the environment was continuing to make
me feel good and I didn't want to leave the paradisiacal setting which surrounded
me. I felt melancholic and bored at the same time. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I anyway
had some goals I wanted to reach during the last period, despite my two main "projects"
(The Realist and Illusion du Choix) were accomplished. Max came up for one-week
visit in the forest and I was really glad to share some moments with him, climbing
in some of the hidden areas. I climbed few days with Neil Hart as well. He
filmed me in one of the best example of "Font in a nutshell" boulder,
"Paddy" 7C+ and also in "Magic circus" 8A, a double jump in
the southern part of Bleau. Both these problems present a really heinous
mantle, where you have to smear your body and try to rock over without thinking
about the consequences of the fall. A true crap. On Magic circus, after the
first fall on the mantle, I got the upper part with a positive feeling I found
myself almost over the lip. I unfortunately got into the shocking situation
where you are too high to come down, but also too low to be save. I was locked.
My hands started to touch rock in every angles, with the results to get mossy
and find no useful slopers. I couldn't jump down and I couldn't go up. I prayed
Neil to give me a help with the hands, he was stood at the top while filming.
He didn't understand at first; he went on filming. On the second call he gave
me the saving hand and he pulled me out of the terrible situation. The little
fear vanished into copious laughs from every of us. A bit smarter I brushed the
rock around that zone and I found some slopers where I put some chalk on. The
third go I said to Max to be focused on the spotting. I trusted him a lot. Neil
stayed upon the stone, to film what we hoped to be the good go. I stuck the
dyno for the third time and I fortunately rock over without Neil's hand. Great.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">When Max
Left I went for the first time to Opium boulders, where in two different days I
was able to climb "Narcotic Direct" 8A+/B and "Jour de
chasse" 8B/+. After this, only 5 days were left. I opted to leave all the
projects away. It didn't matter to climb them at this point. I just wanted to
climb as much as I could, go out and climb with relaxed mind in some areas
where I had never been to. I climbed easy stuff from 5+ till 8A, and they were
probably some of the best days of my trip. I was enjoying a lot. I also asked
to myself why I would have not done more days like these and I took note for
the next trip. The last day was also ending. At half past six I drove to Boissy
Aux Calais ( I am a fun of this area) and I went alone to climb "Les Nobrilistes"
7A+, one of the most aesthetic Font's slab. It required me some goes until the
sunset, when I reached the edge and I said goodbye to Font. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Here is the
list of the line I climbed in the last part (beauty order)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Hotline 7C</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Le chainon manquant 7C</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Magic
circus 8A<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">L'aplat du
Gain 8A<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Paddy 7C+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Rencontre
du troisieme type assis 7C+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">La theorie
du chaos assis 7B+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Le Tailleur
de Mansonges 7C/+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Chasseru de
prises assisi 7C<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Return d'Ariane 7C</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
L'art de la Fugue 8A</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
La Baleine 7C+</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
La Chose 7C+</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Rencard 7C<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Full Metal
Jacket assis 7C<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Jour de
Chasse 8B+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Prise
d'Otage 7C+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Narcotic
Direct 8B<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Millenium
7C+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Apotheose
assis 8A<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Infidele
assis 7C+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Opium 8A<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDMpA-9Gq8ymWMegq9ihrkkJjl5k7S82WmlAkCjVBrtkvhyomwlrBk13X7y_deBuK3GxbAETFc7SPnnr0hKum3ledKTPXUWD5SheMOCMHg_ogqBFT9slOTVl97a4zJgVuu_Yz-C5bVqM/s1600/11086247_10205998714757370_1226864768_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDMpA-9Gq8ymWMegq9ihrkkJjl5k7S82WmlAkCjVBrtkvhyomwlrBk13X7y_deBuK3GxbAETFc7SPnnr0hKum3ledKTPXUWD5SheMOCMHg_ogqBFT9slOTVl97a4zJgVuu_Yz-C5bVqM/s1600/11086247_10205998714757370_1226864768_o.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paddy 7C+, Fontainebleau. Video still by Neil Hart</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYXMiW9HbCksb9TZz8hKRUo8NYuWnVT_EGwfBv0GhgZZQ9eT2fMVnQYYohIsdNpzIIuC4CXp826Rj5sFpqbRmyrGjNXnoKUZixrZvmqephDwqpaKzLsgM_3eTZZTTTs3CJiqXsJrxnUqw/s1600/11122256_10206046546993146_703605719_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYXMiW9HbCksb9TZz8hKRUo8NYuWnVT_EGwfBv0GhgZZQ9eT2fMVnQYYohIsdNpzIIuC4CXp826Rj5sFpqbRmyrGjNXnoKUZixrZvmqephDwqpaKzLsgM_3eTZZTTTs3CJiqXsJrxnUqw/s1600/11122256_10206046546993146_703605719_o.jpg" height="640" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narcotic Direct 8B, Fontainebleau. Photo Neil Hart</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5zqFSU74_yeMgU3msBY7aB3jz2i55hZaz2v3MtWOZ6weKdpgXNUihAZvO1cOU1LSC-6SxmEPO2XMI6FuIeZP9zT5zpyZvI6jZWmZjSTmOZ7DBhXgRfOFmgbyj8-94eJXAzA-Xff-YJW0/s1600/20150314-154710_DX_5942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5zqFSU74_yeMgU3msBY7aB3jz2i55hZaz2v3MtWOZ6weKdpgXNUihAZvO1cOU1LSC-6SxmEPO2XMI6FuIeZP9zT5zpyZvI6jZWmZjSTmOZ7DBhXgRfOFmgbyj8-94eJXAzA-Xff-YJW0/s1600/20150314-154710_DX_5942.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Appartenance 7C, Fontainebleau. Photo Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkbL39tSVh0zKFhaxobN1t1Td4LKEKhxPlkz3BSm7EnsVlpwIBST10LFFY6IbjC73uOsQ6Ib78-e_I2KRu9Q2_CJNsFBQ9BOB3yNm3X81FLg_Qac9trVScLIAUSz9hWZoX2mHqZrRWXpo/s1600/20150315-111450_DX_6067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkbL39tSVh0zKFhaxobN1t1Td4LKEKhxPlkz3BSm7EnsVlpwIBST10LFFY6IbjC73uOsQ6Ib78-e_I2KRu9Q2_CJNsFBQ9BOB3yNm3X81FLg_Qac9trVScLIAUSz9hWZoX2mHqZrRWXpo/s1600/20150315-111450_DX_6067.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elephunk 8B, Fontainebleau. Photo Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmV7v_6B8y9Y8YpYfozelpzUGpLD7qFov_kabU1JZJOjlS8w2uaNx2Nffh5Fu3L1kFdndi02g2xNosKIJS_bfXUeLPFPI6xs6JcPCi5zU-VMJj9puhpiQolTHFJ0zOG96h6Gm6HKwMso/s1600/20150313-165854_DX_5483.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSmV7v_6B8y9Y8YpYfozelpzUGpLD7qFov_kabU1JZJOjlS8w2uaNx2Nffh5Fu3L1kFdndi02g2xNosKIJS_bfXUeLPFPI6xs6JcPCi5zU-VMJj9puhpiQolTHFJ0zOG96h6Gm6HKwMso/s1600/20150313-165854_DX_5483.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Illusion du Choix 8B, Fontainebleau. Photo Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Living in
Font for 2 months has been an excellent
deal; I probably wrote and said these words countless times, but the area is
actually one of the best ring where the bouldering should take place. It is
flat, it counts tons of hidden rocks, the holds are awesome and, moreover, it
is one of the scarce place where you actually learn to climb and not only pull
damn like a rude. In Font, you can see how the climbing should be understood
and enjoyed beyond the simple action to grab holds and pull them. This is why
my trip had to be special and, in the end, these are the main reasons for which
I got a lovely stay. It has been a simply wonderful school of climbing in a
kind of paradise forest. I hope to have make the idea clear enough. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Some people
also said that my trip has been gorgeous for the problems I climbed and the
bunch of “hard” stuff I sent. Basically I am pretty disappointed on this side
and what I managed to do; the bummer is not actually related to the fact that I
wanted to climb more, but in a deeper analysis, to the reasons that gave me
troubles in trying hard and doing what I desired more. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">At the base
of everything I have my skin statement which is giving me serious problems because
they are excessively sweating. The story is pretty long, but I try to make a
summery. Since before 2014 I have always had an ideal and fitting skin for
bouldering. I went to the gym, to granite, to sandstone, to woody fingerboards
and it was always hard, solid, compact and suitable with what I was going to grab.
I could crush the pen’s tip into my upper fingers and they kept its mold for
quite a bit; that was what happened during winter days at school. I knew I
could have no issues from this part, and the fact let me serene. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Since I
came back from US (March 2014), I started to sweat more and more and the good feelings
began to change into a kind of obsession. In June I had to stop for injury, I
came back climbing last September. The first days were pathetic and annoying.
My tips pulled out water from every part, after a couple of moves they were literally
wet. I tried to understand the issue; I mean, it was warm and it was months
that I didn’t climb, so the problem was understandable. My shapes was going
higher again, but the problems persisted. I started to use a mix of Alcohol and
pine resin, before the good goes on my projects. It helped me a little bit for
3 attempts or so, since the sweat didn't come out for a while; without it, everything
would have been thousand times harder. I
tried to accept the situation and not complaining too much. Then I got into the
training mode from December until mid Feb. I knew the alcohol wasn’t the best
solution; I knew that an abuse or an excessive using wouldn’t have been so good;
I hence opted to stop for a period since I wanted to train only. During
Christmas Holiday I went out climbing in Ticino; It was the same story once
again: with alcohol it wasn’t good but even not terrible; without the lotion it was almost
impossible to attempt something hard. The stiff skin tissue of years ago was only
a memory and this made me disappointed.
The issues didn’t get better. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I went to
Font, being quite relieved because sandstone requires usually soft tissue. I
probably got into a good shape and the physical benefits could compensate the
bad skin. In fact, this was what happened. The temperatures after Feb started
to increase a little bit (they were always good but my conditions perceived
this changing a lot). Now, analyzing the whole trip, I could honestly say that
most part of the ascents I did and all the failures I got, were only accorded
to my skin statements. My physical shape was good, my mental approach got a
little step ahead, the friction was most of the times perfect, the mood was
positive and many things seemed to roll in the best ways like rarely happens. This
is sad and frustrating, since almost everything was depending on the skin and
this made me sliding many times. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">At some
point, the issue also started to attach my mental approach and my motivation as
well. I started to be more nervous under the boulders and the patience was
always less and less. The motivation and the desire are starting to turn off,
especially in the last part of my stay. Now that I came back home, I need time
to rest and to recover them in order to try some products which can dry it a
little bit. This can help the issue, but on the other side I would not
understand the drastic change and the true causes. I think I will also make analysis
and see if it can be linked to metabolism or alimentation. Meanwhile, if
someone has some advice I would be glad to hear.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Since I was
telling about the dark side of my Font’s trip, I also reckoned the boulders I
tried which have eluded me. This is not too bad since it can be source of
motivation to come back in the Forest more prepared and with a good skin that I
hope to get soon. Below it, some pictures I made. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Amok<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Surplomb de
la mee direct<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Toute
peines confondues <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Perseverance<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Kheops<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Merveille<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Delire Onirique</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
La toupie carnivore assis</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgweC85F1vNXcBiXru2nFx-_LUg2zzOSxRXaOfF_5MLnqm41rgVRWP_p1-ulo4uEOfYQ1B68OcE927rbtQchmr4DjYQinYC7fRVZ36QhW_xxQaHXuydnLI2s-DuBn6e-aOhWpxeU8t0M2E/s1600/Giulia+Paoletti,+La+voie+micheau+(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgweC85F1vNXcBiXru2nFx-_LUg2zzOSxRXaOfF_5MLnqm41rgVRWP_p1-ulo4uEOfYQ1B68OcE927rbtQchmr4DjYQinYC7fRVZ36QhW_xxQaHXuydnLI2s-DuBn6e-aOhWpxeU8t0M2E/s1600/Giulia+Paoletti,+La+voie+micheau+(3).jpg" height="640" width="496" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giuly on "Le voie michaud" 6C, Fontainebleau.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQb92AqlqK4p1ahREj6dmT01Odk9g5KGHdnSptHyneD2nT16zdLLNX8lJrUnGInk-PIuwkLtcvKRn4TGws1wEYrB8uqzHlyAuOaiFKAZk-Jiw7LNkDT1KrzCCPsk0b0C0vim7rw7P8nTI/s1600/Max+Buvoli,+Pancras+(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQb92AqlqK4p1ahREj6dmT01Odk9g5KGHdnSptHyneD2nT16zdLLNX8lJrUnGInk-PIuwkLtcvKRn4TGws1wEYrB8uqzHlyAuOaiFKAZk-Jiw7LNkDT1KrzCCPsk0b0C0vim7rw7P8nTI/s1600/Max+Buvoli,+Pancras+(3).jpg" height="640" width="488" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Max trying "Pancras", Fontainebleau.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiucHodbnMSQN7apkSk72lp6d4nprgG04hk2xUcpJ5YwbkNCtR_OYnuahB37Rl3xLXYgl3OnFZwjdRiDHOApwmwaAQ_qYA03TeAC0opm7hzU4PLV4FaTV_PqVDKRiGsNK1y6vSYDuM6CGY/s1600/Mt+Pivot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiucHodbnMSQN7apkSk72lp6d4nprgG04hk2xUcpJ5YwbkNCtR_OYnuahB37Rl3xLXYgl3OnFZwjdRiDHOApwmwaAQ_qYA03TeAC0opm7hzU4PLV4FaTV_PqVDKRiGsNK1y6vSYDuM6CGY/s1600/Mt+Pivot.jpg" height="398" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mont Pivot, Fontainebleau</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoohGOziAxJZhAzYUmDpctugCYgXwFt0-BR_QEiu7pb9QRcvDOYKzY0lUFOwnfBfB8g7xCg5ILruhMw3hFYvzI_z4vG0YnwlvvjTpfY7y_yxeRHl-Dwyu6PcIcUDe62PFXeantgnfAwaE/s1600/Giulia+Paoletti,+Heir+Encore+(4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoohGOziAxJZhAzYUmDpctugCYgXwFt0-BR_QEiu7pb9QRcvDOYKzY0lUFOwnfBfB8g7xCg5ILruhMw3hFYvzI_z4vG0YnwlvvjTpfY7y_yxeRHl-Dwyu6PcIcUDe62PFXeantgnfAwaE/s1600/Giulia+Paoletti,+Heir+Encore+(4).jpg" height="346" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giuly on "Heir Hencore" 6B/+, Fontainebleau.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJVwrpqvh4WbMJddG7giap0Aa_6QVQ1p_poeTA9H9eROYt4CSRqSgmTT4m4mNCyT1QDczij_ENUgPgKcMjliWyxohpltjYXC45vcy6e3e1HuCD_bHuP2kmqBRA-wlXe5Kpvrfv-S0E10/s1600/la+baleine+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJVwrpqvh4WbMJddG7giap0Aa_6QVQ1p_poeTA9H9eROYt4CSRqSgmTT4m4mNCyT1QDczij_ENUgPgKcMjliWyxohpltjYXC45vcy6e3e1HuCD_bHuP2kmqBRA-wlXe5Kpvrfv-S0E10/s1600/la+baleine+(1).jpg" height="640" width="422" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying la Baleine, Fontainebleau.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-34532662534529137072015-03-23T07:51:00.000+01:002015-03-24T11:44:57.989+01:00The Forest. Second part.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Spring is
coming out, the sun is burning more and more and the winter is giving the last
beats with its tail. I usually don’t like spring so much and this year it won't
be an exception. I am sure about this.
Winter temps are missing, but it seems they are not going to grow up in the
next coming days. I am writing this blog-spot to make a point about the central
part of my trip to Font, since I am getting into the last three weeks of climbing where I
actually hope to not meet really warm days and to enjoy the forest as much as
possible in terms of friction and pleasant temperatures. Many days have been spent,
but it is hard getting satisfied with all this wonderful nature around me. For this, the desire is still burning.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"> I would like to make a kind of report about
how the things have rolled from the beginning of the trip until now; about the
achievements I had, the little “dreams” I realized and the good days spent out
in the wood. First of all the thing that I am noting is that I am feeling more
and more at ease in the full contest of
the of the forest. Breathing the air just out of home, smelling the scents in
the first steps into the forest and catching all the features and the various
shapes of nature is great. Every day I get more aware how quiet some areas are
and how beautiful is the setting where we climb. Everything is getting more
familiar and it was what I wished.
Beyond the setting, even the rock is now less a mystery and I am
improving in feeling the slopy foot holds and squeeze the weird slopers.
Feeling like home here was one of the biggest goal for the trip and also one of
the thing I have desired most in my climbing career. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Secondly,
the other target I set for the 2015, was to find some hard lines to repeat and
falling into the working-obsession, keeping trying them for more than my usual
2/3 days after which I started to get bored and I usually give them up. The
reason is because I would like to improve my
patience, my constancy and my mental statements. I would like to get mad
in mini-details and work hard to climb gorgeous line. Working a line for many
days in a short period is something tough where I personally reply some issues:
I get frustrated and I am not able to understand the process and how it should
have been followed. Overcome this
trouble would mean to get a step ahead for my personality and for my climbing
vision. The reason is because there are some wonderful lines that are too hard to be completed in
just a couple of days and since I would really like to climb them one day, I have
to start to think upon this side.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">For the
second time this year, this approach has been reached and I have been able to stick a couple of lines
that in the past I would have let away before. This first happened in “Big kat”
(last Jan) and then in “the big island” last week. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">This
boulder is good; many videos and images represent it quite well, probably much
better than my poor descriptions. It climbs really well and the shape is quite
emotional. It has anyway a couple of pities. The stone below makes the line
smaller than what it is; it should be huge and really pure; while the stone
makes in one side the attempts comfortable, on the other a little lack in terms
of purity. There are also few
controversies regarding the starting position. Here I try to explain them,
making the read as short as I can. Dave Graham was the first to climb the roof,
in 2008. He started sit on the stone, LH in the low rails, RH on the first
polished crimps and right toe hook in the right rail. This is “the island”,
rated 8B+. Later, some repetitions had been made; some of them climbed the
original way, other ones adopted a new way to begin: RH on the slopy rail
instead of using the crimp. This is obviously much more logical, even
personally much easier than the original Dave’s line. Then, in 2009, a new
version came out. Vincent Pochon started
lower. He Stood on the ground with LH on the polished crimp and RH on a lower
hold. He added two easy moves into “the island”, putting up “the big island”
rated 8C. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Beside
these little things, I guess it can be considerate like an awesome line and I
always like it since the first day when Marco lead me to the spot (spring 2011).
I was anyway conscious that for climbing it I would have had need a good dose of toughness to attempt it for more days, one of the
biggest lack in my baggage as I previously said. I have been tried it three times before this
trip, when I was able to do all the moves except the first one of “The island”.
On the third session (oct 2012), being tired by incessant fails, I attempted the first two moves of
Poschon’s version and they quickly came together. For this trip it was not the
main project, but definitively it was the first of the secondary ones. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Coming up
the first day I was pretty positive and I really wanted to get into the working
mentality. I tried several times the starting move again, but nothing changed; it went on to miss and I felt far from
executing it. I had two possibilities to chose: making the deal pretty easy and
opted for the “new” starting version,
which is way easier for my style, or getting into the whole line of
Poschon. I thought a lot about the first
plan, even the seasons before; it sounded sweet and more logical after all. But
it basically didn’t convince me; it would have been a kind of cheating beta,
since it basically skips what is the hardest move for me and I could have not
climbed the original way. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I opted for
the second one. This meant a bad and a good thing. I had to do 2 more moves
that require body tension, adjustments
of hands/feet positions and more time on the line in the overall. I hence knew
to get at the end and with less chalk in
my hands, which in fact turned into an important point. The positive side was
that in this way, I could start with the heel hook directly and my hand was a
bit closer to gain the hard move of the Island. In terms of strength it is
definitely easier (the two first move are pretty simple), in terms of endurance
and mental approach is harder. The second day I was again falling in the middle,
going to the central crimp in the roof. The third day was pretty warm but it was
also the turning point of the experience and the moment where I understood the
importance of the chalk at the end. I fall 3 times after grabbing the crimp and
my hands could not squeeze anymore. I was slipping to much.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The fourth
day was even wa</span>rmer but I felt positive feelings in my mind. I opted to go. The
path was the same like usual; I knew every part of it. I knew where all the bushes
would brush my legs, I knew the colors and the atmosphere of the hill and I
knew that my thoughts were always focused about sending. I knew the perfect
position where the pads had to stay, I knew the tickmarks I had to make and I
knew that we were in march and the temperature could have not been much different
than those ones. I had nothing to complain about. There was anyway something
that I didn’t know. I found a slightly different position for the slopy rail in
the last part, where I fall the previous day. That could have made a little
difference. I repeated the sequence a couple of times from 4 move into the
start, meanwhile the Slovenian climbing team came up to try it. I rested and
they began to work the moves. The kindly let the boulder dry a little bit
before my go. I appreciated their spirit and I thank them for this. I tried to
focus and not think about the heat. I got into the central part pretty well, I changed
my feet and I got to the crimp without efforts. Then I got into the last part,
where I missed 3 times. I slowly moved the right foot on the far hold and I
focused into the new slopy structure I felt few minutes before. I squeezed the
rock as strong as I could realizing that it could have been the right moment. I
grabbed the good edge and I almost thought about victory. I swung my body off
and this part was much harder than what I supposed. For nothing, for luck or
for I don’t know what I was still on and not laid on the ground. It was done. I
made the mantle and I screamed out all the efforts; not for only having climbed
it, but mostly for have worked the line for many days according to my standards.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Climbing
the big island has been a quite intensive and challenging effort. It took me
several days to finish it, despite its style suits me pretty well. It has been
a good satisfaction, but not as I actually desired. The day I sent it I was
pretty happy for the first minutes after the top out, than the happiness
started to vanish and I felt I was more happy to have removed an hard problem
and never think more about it, more than the ascent itself. This let me a
little bitter taste; and I didn’t catch the source and the reason at all. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp8qmFf-xRnc9HxOr-9gjk7mWE7A9sAK5pr3Bnx5dEINtvnDChH7fqu6r6HGb0Y-TeesuApGgMr9O23Ll4AIfZabKHhI1d6bJXSxhxszOu1wsAEEbx_gTGGXZIFpjFUXMjtfh9Ez1dWzY/s1600/the+island-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp8qmFf-xRnc9HxOr-9gjk7mWE7A9sAK5pr3Bnx5dEINtvnDChH7fqu6r6HGb0Y-TeesuApGgMr9O23Ll4AIfZabKHhI1d6bJXSxhxszOu1wsAEEbx_gTGGXZIFpjFUXMjtfh9Ez1dWzY/s1600/the+island-13.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The big Island 8C, Fontainebleau. Photo Eirik Thorsrud</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhozYqiFcH05E1IetYuXxIDrkans7T16EyTqoAzm4BX0d7WA0vWLvNv6vPepf-jpRrnHoVoL9yvbY5jYAMgLDW20Y59DFZhGgH7vP1ofHoMDa55TN_yVsB_MdsS4bi8McgS3suVy11pYu8/s1600/the+island-22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhozYqiFcH05E1IetYuXxIDrkans7T16EyTqoAzm4BX0d7WA0vWLvNv6vPepf-jpRrnHoVoL9yvbY5jYAMgLDW20Y59DFZhGgH7vP1ofHoMDa55TN_yVsB_MdsS4bi8McgS3suVy11pYu8/s1600/the+island-22.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">The big Island 8C, Fontainebleau. Photo Eirik Thorsrud</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The trip
anyway continued. The weather seemed to have reached a good positive and stable
trend and all the moist boulders would have been drier. This is what I supposed.
The forest has many areas and you can find boulders which dries up really
quickly, while other ones take many days or even weeks to get totally
climbable. There were two problems that
I really cared about, more than all the other ones. They deal of “illusion du
choix” located in Puiselet and “the realist”, which is situated in a bad hole into a humid wood; they both need time to dry up completely,
especially the second one. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">During the
good period of sunny days I was more positive and relaxed about the issue,
since I knew that I finally could have seen them in prime condition. It is a bit
frustrating to wait for such a long period for the main things that you come up
for, but fortunately the nature helped me. The timing was also on my side,
since for the best conditions week Giulia showed up and I had an excellent
spotter for “Illusion du Choix”. We went
there and I was really excited to try it. I couldn’t wait. I have been in
Puiselet 5 times before that day; 2 of them I got lost, while in other occasions
I forgot the rope to clean it or it started raining or I found it wet. So I waited that day pretty long,
impatiently.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">It was
fortunately dry. The area has for me the best rock quality in all the forest,
at least for the sectors where I have been so far. It is quite sandy few times,
but the grain is perfect. I remained dazzled on this side. Basically nobody
usually go in this place, since it gets mossy in a really short time. “illusion
du choix” was already dirty, despite the fact that Nalle cleaned it last year.
I quickly put the rope and I give to it a touch of life back. Whit chalk it was
a wonder. After two little sessions on the moves I gained the top. I remained
speechless by astonishment I had. I knew it could have been one of my favorite,
but the reality has been still much better than what I though. World class
problem.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The second
one was Realist but it seemed harder to find it dry. The slopy rail was always
wet while the other holds slightly humid and almost dry. At the end of Giulia’s stay, we had not enough
time to go there and I was without
spotter; but this is definitely safer
than what it would have been on “illusion du Choix”. I figured out a good way,
using a higher pinch-hole than the normal beta does. This hold allowed me to skip
the rail in the damp section and the vain attempts became a kind of success. In
a couple of hours, with some breaks and another one go to bring the pads, I
finished this beautiful line. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Now I still
have three weeks left here in the forest; I am working on some other lines and
I would also like to brush something new that I looked at. Definitely the 2
biggest desires has been fulfilled and the fact that I have not to take about
wetness anymore makes me light and happy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Here is the
list of the ascent of the central part of my trip (beauty order)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Illusion du
Choix 8B<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Appartenance
7C<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US">Partage assis 8B</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The realist
8A/+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Gecko assis
8B/+</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The big
island 8C<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Bleau Sacrè
8A+/B<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Coup de
feel 7C<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Le Tajine
8B<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pancras 7C</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
La Toupie carnivore 8A</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Sacrebleau
8A<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Irreversible
7C<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Kendo 7C </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Shoot 7C+</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzNKUi837JUV_bjCO8nhKv8VbB4Z0GgOBMjJr-S4hEgiiEFdlIXhLDr9hfA8KvZUkoXaeABiTp-87f9gQPtwtTIT3ssRs_QtwRpkWK5egEleUcCXBmSogjG2XnKKGfs2sTYZ81xSn9X4/s1600/apparement.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqzNKUi837JUV_bjCO8nhKv8VbB4Z0GgOBMjJr-S4hEgiiEFdlIXhLDr9hfA8KvZUkoXaeABiTp-87f9gQPtwtTIT3ssRs_QtwRpkWK5egEleUcCXBmSogjG2XnKKGfs2sTYZ81xSn9X4/s1600/apparement.jpg" height="314" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'apparemant bas 8B, Fontainebleau. Video still</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxSXHZFgZkrVOqR1-TyCX9exISFUTYX-Ns-OkNHM1kKJ-2R8Iqq7mxLizQ_em9yxEBP7Wg0Y0oCDIic8BXHln3R-JG9WzlN-Mt6vp6zOQpR1_5r6UIESi-mvLRx1YMWhGOn44U5s0Rzw/s1600/Gecko.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxSXHZFgZkrVOqR1-TyCX9exISFUTYX-Ns-OkNHM1kKJ-2R8Iqq7mxLizQ_em9yxEBP7Wg0Y0oCDIic8BXHln3R-JG9WzlN-Mt6vp6zOQpR1_5r6UIESi-mvLRx1YMWhGOn44U5s0Rzw/s1600/Gecko.jpg" height="312" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gecko assis 8B/+, Fontainebleau. Video still.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDwjzWA0P2JRFjXZzMehOhpGxt5BTMbqJFtQMm6cMMK7nmdUpH9pa2fWtUzpbYZjmOziv7MrKKtYngb4RF74WcS-vFt83_3APFzFAS6ZxquFfw6EiE97yZrqyreGMp9KeXkuTafrJWFOY/s1600/partage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDwjzWA0P2JRFjXZzMehOhpGxt5BTMbqJFtQMm6cMMK7nmdUpH9pa2fWtUzpbYZjmOziv7MrKKtYngb4RF74WcS-vFt83_3APFzFAS6ZxquFfw6EiE97yZrqyreGMp9KeXkuTafrJWFOY/s1600/partage.jpg" height="456" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Partage assis 8B, Fontainebleau. Video still</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-21602586713846266752015-03-01T22:05:00.000+01:002015-03-01T22:06:20.336+01:00The Forest. First part. <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br /></div>
Time has gone quickly since the last time I travelled to Font, the suggestive forest in the south of Paris. It was autumn 2012, when I sent my last problem here, the historical “Karma”, located in the centre of Cusinere sector. If I have not lost the count, that deal of the 7th time in the Forest. It is a lot, I have to admit. Sometimes I try to get conscious about how lucky I am to live not so far from this place, which can be reached by car from my home (7.30 h more or less). Every time I came up, it was the same story year after year: I came here, the motivation was high, I climbed, I tried to get confidence, I had lot of fun and then it was already time to leave. One week in a place with tons of good rock is everywhere too little. The longer period I have ever been is for 8 days and considering how the area is large and how many stones it counts, 7th short times don’t seem too much after all. That last time, back in 2012 fall, I was almost sure that it could be the last short visit and I promised to myself that soon or later I would have set a larger period in the forest; The reasons are simple to realize. I wanted to get used with the rock, the style and enjoy as much as I could this place where I have always been with rush and few time on tap. I had to wait for 2 years and half, before the desire fulfilled, but now the moment has come.
<BR>
<BR>
I left on the 12th and the first 2 weeks of the trip are now passed by. It is good. Being here in the forest and enjoy it as deep as ever is sweet and exciting. I can now set a longer list of goals, investing time and energies working on the lines I have always dreamt to attempt, enjoying the wood and the sandstone boulders in all their shapes, difficult, heights and styles. During these two years I fortunately visit other several places around Europe and the globe. Compared to the other trips I had up here, I have got now a different vision and I have more experience to match the quality of this place with other great areas where I have been from 2012 till now. Font is always good and the first days of climbing confirmed to myself this thing. There are a couple of factors that make this place special for me. The sandstone quality comes first. The climbing it requires is not something harder than Granite or than other kind of Sandstone, but it is simply a totally different thing; a different kind of approach. The approach is in fact totally singular, the body positions are tough to find as well as the holds are something we are not used to grab; you have to learn new moves every day and feel what you have up on the tiny footholds. The typical package of holds is a perfect mix of “sweet” grey sandstone which presents wonderful ultra-gripped pinches, edges and mostly slopers or “tortoise” slopers features to squeeze in many directions with your open hands. This is great. Nothing is foregone, both for the easiest boulders but even for the hardest, both in the positive expectations and even for the negative ones. Secondly, the forest makes this place sweet and great. The moss which cover woods was something I missed in these year and I finally have the pleasure to see and admire it again.
<BR>
<BR>
During my previous trips here I only knew this world class area, beyond Ticino which for me is certainly a lower point below Font. Now that I have been in other couple of world class places , I can almost put in the same level with this area other spots like Rocklands, Red Rocks and Albarracin. Everyone of these amazing destinations had some special points higher than the respective ones and for a reason or another I love them at the same point.
<BR>
<BR>
The weather is probably one of the few negative side of Font, here is typical to go up and down quickly. It is continental climate, so it is less foreseeable and pretty weird in many cases. The good thing is that the rock dries up quickly.
Unfortunately for this factor I have been able to climb 8 days in a total of 17. Almost 50% of the time, which is not obviously as I wanted but I haven’t to complain about, since the weather will do its own loop. I fortunately got profit by the good sunny days, where the friction wasn’t so bad. Here is a list of the problems I managed to tick and below it you could find my Insta upload with all the news about my trip. Enjoy.
<BR>
<BR>
Ticks (in order of beauty)
<BR>
<BR>
- Partage 8a+
<BR>
- Elephunk 8b
<BR>
- Eden Rock 7b+
<BR>
- L’apparemment bas 8b
<BR>
- Controle A 7c
<BR>
- Bagheera 7b+/c
<BR>
- Coup de kick 8b
<BR>
- Formis rouge 7c
<BR>
- Hip Hop assis 8b
<BR>
- Ubik assis 8b
<BR>
- Deux faux plis en plats reels 7c
<BR>
- Atomic playboy raccourci 7c+
<BR>
- L’aeredynamite assis 8a
<BR>
- Conviction 8a
<BR>
- Gibouleè assis 7c
<BR>
- Tristesse 7c
<BR>
- Respire 7c+
<BR>
- Le Zebulon 7c
<BR>
- Sale gosse assis 8a
<BR>
- De vitae beata 8a
<BR>
- Plates tonique 7c
<BR>
- Atresie 8a
<BR>
- Big golden 7c+
<BR>
- Big boss 7c
<BR>
<BR><BR><BR>
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://instagram.com/p/zna_Gus0yf/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top">Partage (8a+), Buthiers. So happy to had the chance to climb this thing today. The quality of this one is pretty hard to describe. Unique. @salewa @lasportivagram #fontainebleau #bouldering #rockclimbing #france</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">Una foto pubblicata da Niccolò Ceria (@nk_ceria) in data: <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-02-27T19:14:19+00:00">27 Feb 2015 alle ore 11:14 PST</time></p></div></blockquote>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://instagram.com/p/zagNkUM04T/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top">Finally a sunny day in the #forest. Managed to flash this cool problem "Ubik assis" (8b) in the peculiar sector of les mammouths, just behind the museum. Great problems of underclings, pinches and body-tension. @salewa @lasportivagram #fontainebleau #bouldering #rockclimbing #france</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">Una foto pubblicata da Niccolò Ceria (@nk_ceria) in data: <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-02-22T18:49:51+00:00">22 Feb 2015 alle ore 10:49 PST</time></p></div></blockquote>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://instagram.com/p/zS3tcrs08E/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top">The first week of the trip is over. It has been quite humid and rainy in these days and the next week seems to be even worse. Fortunately today we had the first day of really good condition and the forest is able to surprise me time after time with the weirdness of the climbing. Here in the screenshot is the ascent of today, "hip hop assis" (8b), in the wild wood of Boissy aux Cailles. Brilliant problem with brilliant moves. @lasportivagram @salewa #fontainebleau #bouldering #rockclimbing #france</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">Una foto pubblicata da Niccolò Ceria (@nk_ceria) in data: <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-02-19T19:41:15+00:00">19 Feb 2015 alle ore 11:41 PST</time></p></div></blockquote>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://instagram.com/p/zQdERqM01F/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top">Every day out in the forest is a learning day for me. The kind of holds made by this sandstone are basically unique and specific. Nothing is easy and every move need a high dose of tecnique, where just a little balancing can make different between falling hundred times or sending. The line between success or fail is sometime really thin. This is "Plates Tonique", a hidden cool wall in the centre of bas cuvier. @salewa @lasportivagram #fontainebleau #bouldering #rockclimbing #france</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">Una foto pubblicata da Niccolò Ceria (@nk_ceria) in data: <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-02-18T21:09:58+00:00">18 Feb 2015 alle ore 13:09 PST</time></p></div></blockquote>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://instagram.com/p/zDcV_QM0-F/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top">Completed all the big five boulders this afternoon in #cuvier Rempart. They are beautiful to climb. I remember I set this little goal in the spring of 2009, the first time I have been in that sector. It was warm, just after the easter. During the years I often looked at these huge #sandstone balls and I always postponed the attempts to wait for good temperatures and for the realistic possibilities to send them in a single session. Fortunately the day came and the waiting made this afternoon sweet. #fontainebleau #bouldering #rockclimbing #france</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">Una foto pubblicata da Niccolò Ceria (@nk_ceria) in data: <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-02-13T19:53:31+00:00">13 Feb 2015 alle ore 11:53 PST</time></p></div></blockquote>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-44721243708401166562015-02-03T16:40:00.001+01:002015-02-03T16:42:47.181+01:00The last two months<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Here we are with my first blog spot of the year 2015. The period riding December and January has been quite busy and many days were spent inside for training and preparation. Like usual, training has a double face; a bad one and a good one. Once I got the training mood, I always know that I sit the rock climbing out for a while. This is a negative part and sometimes it is even dangerous as you lose the rock feelings and technique. The positive side is that once I got into this process I am just damn focused on training and nothing else; I like this thing and I love to do it despite sometimes rock climbing misses a bit. During 2014 I basically had only 3 weeks of training during all the year, then I got injured and I had 3 more weeks in autumn where I made a kind of soft/keeping training just to recover well and prepare my wrist for hard climbing and for the though moments would come next. Late in autumn, I felt it was time to start again and I opted to buy an online training program from two well known trainers of Teamof2. The program provided 10 weeks of daily schedules. Since the Christmas holidays were in the middle of the deal, I split it in 3 different sections: 3 weeks of hard training, two weeks and a half of rock climbing/rest/soft training and 3 more weeks of full training again; all this package would have made a flew from December to the beginning of February. I was excited.
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At the first look, the program seemed to be interesting and mostly new for me. In fact, it was. Many workouts that I wasn't used before had been added. While the schedules I already did before underwent modifies using other systems or other recovering time. It has been curious and newsworthy to follow a program set by every day of to-do's. Before this, I just planned what I should have done in the whole week, giving no matters to the order of sessions or the days when I had to push hard or not. Moreover it is the first time that I followed a program made by someone else and not planned with a self-setting. New stuff like I said, new ways and new workouts. For example I had Cardio sessions where I was completely green, TRX workouts for the core and the shoulders and other cool exercises. Since I do only bouldering I often underestimated the Cardio aspect and its importance and aftermaths. I knew I was bad and it deals of one of my biggest lack, but I didn't think that it could be so useful for bouldering. Definitively it will be a part of my future training.
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The graphic of my shape made a lot of ups and downs during the period. At the beginning I felt gorgeous. Between the first and the second week I had a really high peak, I managed to do my first 1-5-9 ever on the personal PG, I could try V14 in the wall and I sent different hard problems in the gym. Then I started to be tired, weak and a bit sick from training. The last few days of the third week I had a big cliff, my muscles hurt but I was mentally serene, since the drops are obviously normal. I went to Ticino for few days; I rested, I climbed a bit and I enjoyed the fresh winter air. I felt pleasure, joy and I got relaxed in being out instead of close into a stinky and dirty pigeon house or into a fitness gym where I could read the sameness of the usual customers riding on a static bike. They seemed stupid and I also was. One day I felt bored and faint, while the day after I ticked "ninja skills" off. This is to say how the ups and downs can change and the shape can evolve, dropping or rising. I came back home and I came up again few days during the holidays. I tried hard on "big kat" and I finished this line after 4 days of war. I tried "the story of two worlds" and I felt everything was going down again. That day I perceived a intensive dose of tiredness which followed me for days. I reached the lowest point during the middle of Jan, where I sensed fatigue and I had to fight to make 1-5 on the rungs of my PG. My shoulders didn't answer, my body was off and what I had was only a bit of finger strength that allowed me to go on. Sometimes I skipped the daily workout; I felt insane trying something when your body or your instinct don't feel good and positive. On the last week I came up again. The skin raised up, the shoulders seemed to be better and day after day I added a piece of mine to the full package. The core strength missed again, and it is missing right now as well. The motivation came and the line of my imaginary graphic probably is reaching the medium values. Now I finished, I felt I need rest and recovering days, I need to find a way to link all the skills together and make one unique well-working piece. The time will say if it has been worthy and useful for myself, or just a kind of "keeping" training and the hard times was vain. I am confident, we will see.
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJqfjpLAD6CsJr69O6pGKG0TxHJZ44bHk11fbJgUdBUfSgQE3n9g3MUo5KdkbgIgjE55PYC6oHAjwz4KkarpkTJAUgZYgunvyCWflNSVvRW7YT2A5CjLyOZthBHMi5Hu1gqLJYt4bGRZc/s1600/Kuerzi150105-0346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJqfjpLAD6CsJr69O6pGKG0TxHJZ44bHk11fbJgUdBUfSgQE3n9g3MUo5KdkbgIgjE55PYC6oHAjwz4KkarpkTJAUgZYgunvyCWflNSVvRW7YT2A5CjLyOZthBHMi5Hu1gqLJYt4bGRZc/s1600/Kuerzi150105-0346.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ninja Skills 8B+, Sobrio (CH). Photo Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://instagram.com/p/xhMkcus05g/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top">4th day on the line. Finally sent "Big kat" 8b+ this morning, in Chironico. It could probably be my hardest climbing so far. The mental setting it required me is pretty high and this is not only due to the physical first part but to the mantle which I felt extreme coming from the bottom. Well done @jwebxl for the FA. @salewa @lasportivagram #chironico #switzerland #ticino #bouldering #rockclimbing</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A photo posted by Niccolò Ceria (@nk_ceria) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-01-06T16:10:06+00:00">Jan 6, 2015 at 8:10am PST</time></p></div></blockquote>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://instagram.com/p/ymWJY2s09i/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top">The last week of training is over. Thanks to @teamof2training for the support and for the great workouts you suggested me. @salewa @lasportivagram #climbinggym #dyno</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A video posted by Niccolò Ceria (@nk_ceria) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2015-02-02T12:41:23+00:00">Feb 2, 2015 at 4:41am PST</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>
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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="4" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAAGFBMVEUiIiI9PT0eHh4gIB4hIBkcHBwcHBwcHBydr+JQAAAACHRSTlMABA4YHyQsM5jtaMwAAADfSURBVDjL7ZVBEgMhCAQBAf//42xcNbpAqakcM0ftUmFAAIBE81IqBJdS3lS6zs3bIpB9WED3YYXFPmHRfT8sgyrCP1x8uEUxLMzNWElFOYCV6mHWWwMzdPEKHlhLw7NWJqkHc4uIZphavDzA2JPzUDsBZziNae2S6owH8xPmX8G7zzgKEOPUoYHvGz1TBCxMkd3kwNVbU0gKHkx+iZILf77IofhrY1nYFnB/lQPb79drWOyJVa/DAvg9B/rLB4cC+Nqgdz/TvBbBnr6GBReqn/nRmDgaQEej7WhonozjF+Y2I/fZou/qAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://instagram.com/p/whNi63M045/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_top">Almost at the end of the second week of the training program. 2014 has been pretty poor under the training aspect and I had just few weeks of this during the spring. Now that my wrist seems to be totally recovered, I opted to start an online program together with @teamof2training I am really psyched to try all the things where I am weak like cardio and core workouts.</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A photo posted by Niccolò Ceria (@nk_ceria) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2014-12-12T19:47:14+00:00">Dec 12, 2014 at 11:47am PST</time></p></div></blockquote><script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-72644969836491967172015-01-07T19:57:00.000+01:002015-01-07T19:57:11.056+01:002014 - Top 10 problems<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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When a new year begins, it comes pretty usual
to think what has been done and what is coming next. I always analyze the good
moments from the past, trying to remember them as deep as I can, reading the mistakes,
setting new goals and dreaming new glory moments of bouldering and travelling for the next future.
Since two occasions, I am used to make a kind of top 10 list of the best lines I climbed
during the past year. Conversely to 2013, I opted this time to share it
on my blog. The list basically includes the best things I did in 2014; it
classifies them following what are for me the most important 7 aspects of
bouldering: quality of rock, pureness of the line, quality of the holds, the
aesthetic aspect, the natural landscapes
around, the kind of movements/sequences and the personal experience on the
line. Here it is.<br />
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<b><span lang="EN-US">- 10th. "Rust in Peace"</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (FA), Champorcher (ITA). Definitively
one of my proudest first ascent ever: tall, huge, massive, physical and the
climb on it is awesome. It probably deserves to be in the top 10 milestone of
2014 for its pureness and for the good quality of rock, which stands out in all
the valley for me. It is characterized by a slopy pinches sequence in the roof,
to get out in a slightly overhang easy finish with cool moves as well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjdi4jRikpAPgYfOFhIjG1e_5X2JQD0ZYZu2rXhL7jXo-wPm8In7snT6A6sLsFrIHdOGUWffh8j0BAo4sG9SHXb2OYhn-yK7G12jYSuVGIL_6bgYdPEyePDrqN4cXVsubXCjiB6Fca62M/s1600/The+ship+project+in+Champorcher.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjdi4jRikpAPgYfOFhIjG1e_5X2JQD0ZYZu2rXhL7jXo-wPm8In7snT6A6sLsFrIHdOGUWffh8j0BAo4sG9SHXb2OYhn-yK7G12jYSuVGIL_6bgYdPEyePDrqN4cXVsubXCjiB6Fca62M/s1600/The+ship+project+in+Champorcher.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+(1).jpg" height="640" width="462" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Rust in Peace", Champorcher. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US">-9th. "This side of Paradise"</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (FA Matt Wilder), Bishop (US). One
of the best highball I have ever seen during the years; It is a kind of perfect
and tall arete which makes you small like an ant. Located up in the wild
Bardini's boulder sector, it stands up on the hill in a perfect position like a
true king. The experience had been quite mystic, scary and proud at the same
time. The only thing that don't let this gem go higher is probably quality of
the rock. It has been great sharing this ascent and my fear together with
Giulia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-LZILFHhsY6sicX-sjsKNOqAnFZc5MhuzWHIJMbO30YOPmrG4AQktXEqnLMt3dlLs330uHcUHMS4WcxRgWeTnVhHenfxVGOQcp-m8LB5D_zyt3_unRznw8HZ7PJsuBnykfRHpRQbtD_0/s1600/1620802_10203109500687999_1008734185_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-LZILFHhsY6sicX-sjsKNOqAnFZc5MhuzWHIJMbO30YOPmrG4AQktXEqnLMt3dlLs330uHcUHMS4WcxRgWeTnVhHenfxVGOQcp-m8LB5D_zyt3_unRznw8HZ7PJsuBnykfRHpRQbtD_0/s1600/1620802_10203109500687999_1008734185_n.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking the move on "This side of Paradise", Bishop. Photo Robert Rundin</td></tr>
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<b>-8th. "Gliese
581"</b> (FA), Champorcher (ITA). <span lang="EN-US">The direct way to climb "Zarmina", which has the beginning
sequence in common with this. Definitively much less proud and pure than that
previous two ones, but the moves make this piece incredible like the experience
I had. I Felt so on my limit that day and the ascent was something like epic
and unforgettable. It probably has one of the best pinch I have ever used to
make a perfect jump to the slopy good lip. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju88SKcMd8niDmlltV2-07N6HzcU9SxMi6Zyk0yePPZG0UP66WRe4KzmLAFHPYyCaV2FeH-kUMUcmhwl2WQ3_YV_DWlNHCDvAe3Wk6tXqKXhzMrXoFMG_8xU20WiURWDFOEOGj6zSidJQ/s1600/Schermata+06-2456838+alle+13.12.10+(2)%2Bcopia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju88SKcMd8niDmlltV2-07N6HzcU9SxMi6Zyk0yePPZG0UP66WRe4KzmLAFHPYyCaV2FeH-kUMUcmhwl2WQ3_YV_DWlNHCDvAe3Wk6tXqKXhzMrXoFMG_8xU20WiURWDFOEOGj6zSidJQ/s1600/Schermata+06-2456838+alle+13.12.10+(2)%2Bcopia.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Gliese 581", Champorcher. Pic from the Video of Andrea Cossu</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">-<b>7th. "Atlas Shrugged" </b>(FA Jon
Cardwell), Red Rocks (US). Black velvet canyon is an unique sector of Red
Rocks; together with Fontainebleau, here I found my favorite rock ever and the
shape of this one is awesome. Compression roof climbing at the beginning,
followed by the upper part (The Fountainhead) with great holds and tricky
mantle to get out. Exciting. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Atlas Shrugged", Red Rocks. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US">-6th. "Lamiche a Mitges"</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (FA Tony Lamiche?), Albarracin (E).
Here we came back to the pride of the first two lines in my opinion. Its
highness is perfect to me, not excessively high but with incredible development;
great experience with my friend Nils.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Lamiche at mitges", Albarracin. Photo Vivi Monteiro</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">-<b>5th. "Nitro" </b>(FA), Aland
Island (FIN). If I would have made a list of the best climbing moments, this
one it would have been the 1st. I Looked at this line during the short trip I
had and I just tried to wonder if it would have been possible or not. At the
end of my stay<s> </s>I decided to brush it and clean it up, to see how it
would have come out. The result deal of one of the best experience I have ever
had in climbing. Brushing new stuff, dreaming about it and realizing that it is
possible goes after goes discovering the real beta is unique. The boulder
itself is amazing for me, like a big egg of rock to squeeze with the movements
I have always looked for. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Nitro", Aland. Photo Riccardo Monetta</td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US">-4th. "Elysium"</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (FA Randy Puro), Bavona (CH). Another
good day of climbing together with Nils, in my favorite place of all Ticino.
Here the rock is great and this masterpiece is the proof. Around this
difficulty, it might be the best line in Ticino. Immaculate, fine granite and
beautiful climbing in a perfect mix of strength/technique/balance. Great rock
and perfect holding shapes. Totally worth to be in the best things of the year.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Elysium", Val Bavona. Pic from the video</td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US">-3rd. "Meadowlark Lemon"</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (FA Paul Robinson), Red Rocks (US).
Epic moment again. The first day when I tried I didn’t want to believe at its
beauty and perfection. The experience had been quite though under the mental
aspect, since I would not come back from the states without this tick. it has
basically been the reason which lead me to Vegas and I had a kind of personal
pressure which pushed me to finish this beautiful arete. Sent on the last
couple of days of my trip, leaving a weighty stress and taking a gorgeous lines
like this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Meadowlark Lemon", Red Rocks. photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US">-2nd. "Des roses en Hiver"</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (FA Reto Hartman), Val Ferret (CH).
Thanks a lot to Marco to have showed me this piece of paradise. Since I saw it,
back in 2011 fall, I desperately love it. A sharp and perfect overhang, with a
kind of rare rock quality in all the Swiss, more similar to the sandstone than the
granite. Excellent moves, weird positions, lovely holds.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"des roses en hiver", Val Ferret. Photo Max Buvoli</td></tr>
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<b><span lang="EN-US">1st. "Wet dream"</span></b><span lang="EN-US"> (FA Ethan Pringle), Red Rocks (US).
The most complete boulder problem of the year. Stellar rock, imposing aspect,
beautiful moves in a long high development, crazy full package holds:
crimps/cracks for the start, jugs, pinches, rails, finger lock, brick pinch
with a really high quality rock and shape. Not the best one I have ever
climbed, but definitely the number one for what concerns the last year. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Wet dream", Red Rocks. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-5338660131194016172014-12-28T17:36:00.000+01:002014-12-28T17:38:28.966+01:00Ninja Skills - Sobrio (Ticino)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption">Ninja Skills 8B+, Ticino. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">When I was
in Albaraccin I started feeling my shape reviving a bit, especially on the very
steep boulders. Getting the positive feelings back was simply a wonderful
emotion. After the week spent in Spain, I set a little goals-list I wished to
complete before the end of the year. My plan was to complete a couple hard sequences;
they would have been special and gorgeous as I desired. The list included 5 problems to work and the goal was to finish
two of them before 2015. Since I have to work them more than usual, I had to
chose something not so far from home. The 5 names came up quickly: The big
project in Bavona, "From dirt grows the flowers" and "Big
paw", both in Chironico, "The Story of two worlds" in Cresciano
and "Ninja Skills" in Sobrio. I previously had other sessions on
these problems during the years like one session in From dirt and ninja skills,
eight days on the story in Cresciano, four ones in the Bavona project and an
endless number of working days on Big paw. Something like ten or more for this
last I guess. Frustrating. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">One point
where I have a lot to learn and a lot to understand is to set the working days
closer and to dedicate a long period to work on a single hard project. This approach
would sound better than trying one single line for a full day and then come
back to attempt it one year later or six months later. Using this manner, I
basically feel that the previous session almost didn't count and the work I
dedicate before is almost useless. It doesn't need to be a genius to understand
this process, but after years I am still not getting used. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">So in this
period I was really thinking to start this process, but at the beginning of
December I felt it was time to go into the training mood and for this reason I
hadn't time to go on the rock. Anyway, I had few sessions before the program in
the month of November. I started with FDGTF in Chironico. The session went much
worse than last spring, when I was able to climb it in 3 parts. This time I was
no more capable of finding the beta and the good feelings I had. Moreover, the
sweating troubles increased a lot and all my finger thrown out water after few
goes. Seeing how the skin is bad in these months, I immediately set aside this
one: The holds are sharp, small and incut so it is not the best if you have
soft and wet skin. Big Paw was the same story of years ago. In 2011 I was
getting really close, but after that incredible and positive session I was not
even able to repeat the single moves. I opted to work it with another big beta,
skipping some moves and going directly to a hole when the right hand is still
really low. I have never been able to stick the move; I went close a couple of
time, but never stuck it. In the same
time when December started, I began to follow teamoftwo training program where
I do just indoor climbing, gym, trx and other stuff. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Just before
Christmas, I had a couple of days off from training and I went up to continue
the selection of the problems to work. I went again to big paw, but the bad
feelings went on, without any kind of progress. Seeing the bad and poor
results, I decided to set aside this one as well, together with From dirt. Ninja
skills would have been the next to try. For this problem I was more positive.
Together with Giulia, during an afternoon of rest, I went to check it out again
with one pad only. Fortunately, I was able to remember the path correctly and
after just 15 minutes of hiking I was under it. I let the pad for the day
after, it was supposed to be a great day since Nils and other couple of guys
wanted to check it. On December 23rd we woke up with great temps: not to cold,
dry, sunny and the feelings of the winter in our veins. I met up with Nils in
Nivo, to get warm before going up to Sobrio. The warming up went good, I felt
positive, free and focus to start a session of work in "Ninja Skills".
I really hoped to find a boulder to work for more than one day, without having
bad feelings like on "big paw". <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The picturesque
village of Sobrio was still in the sun. It is crazy to see how this peculiar
place is far from the society and it is located in such a cool mountain. The
hiking was memorized good; I reached Ninja in 10 minutes or so, walking down quickly
for the excessive motivation we had. The sun was still hitting it; so we took
profit to sign the holds, put the chalk on, remember the beta I tried in 2011
and eat a bit after the downhill. Ometz brothers reached us when the shade came
and we started to try it all together. I figured out a smart and good beta for
the finish. I did the ninja move on the first go this time, while years ago it
required me something like 15 goes. The first two moves compose in my opinion
the hardest part of the line: big move to a bad sloper and then a "go-again"
action to a pretty positive edge. These two moves can be considerate around
V11/12, which lead you into the second part of the same difficult but really
longer, composed by 12 moves where endurance and precision can make the
difference between sending it or not. I started working from two moves into the
start and I quickly reached the top, climbing the hardest move of the upper
section. Feelings were great. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">After a
quick break I tried again the first moves; I was able to do them singly. This
was awesome too, since 4 years ago I was not even able to hint none of them. I
felt I could start to work the line from the proper start and see what would
happen. Surprisingly I linked the second move from the bottom, I got the easier
part and I felt on the ninja move, missing the correct sloper to use for the
jump. I felt immediately stupid since it was a great occasion. If I would have
taken the proper slopy pinch, I would have probably had opportunities to
complete it or at least to stick the crimp in the ninja move. A bit
disappointed I rested and I reset my mind. The skin suffered a lot from the
slipping, since the wrong hold slipped fast. But I was trying to not think
about it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Rest time
was over and I went into another go. With more troubles than before I got again
into the ninja move, this time with the proper hold but more tired than before.
The attempt was vain. I opted to rest again and to do another session of
working in the upper moves to get even more confidence, since I felt to have no
chance from the start. Baptiste figured out an interesting beta for the ninja
move, basically skipping it. From the same two holds, instead of going up with
the right hand to the positive crimp, he tried to go with the left one, using a
left heel hook on the rail. After few attempts I managed to do the move using
this beta. It looked to be big and as hard as the other way, but it
definitively requires less precision on your feet and less body coordination. I
repeated the single move for 3 or 4 times, then I rested. I felt it was the
last possible shot from the start, hoping that the new way could have given me
the last chance. Surprisingly I grabbed for the 4th time the second hold and I
ride the rail which leads into the third crux. Using the new beta I grabbed the
good crimp and I started to think about finishing the whole line. The only
thing that could have stopped me was a flash pump, but the breathing helped my
mind to believe in the sending and together with this "mate" I sent
it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Climbing
"ninja skills" was awesome. The problem is gorgeous and the feelings
at the top were sweet. I complete this goal, but not the main one. I wanted to
search for a line to work hard and falling in its obsessions, but I was not
able. Fortunately, during the Christmas day I started for a solo mission to
Chironico again and I probably found two problems where to invest time and energies,
testing my skills under this aspect that I felt is missing in my climbing life.
The first line is called "The great shark hunt" in Nivo, while the
second seems to be "Big kat" in 101. Moreover, I would still have to
check the project in Bavona and "The story of two worlds". I will
still have other few days to go up in Ticino before the 7th on Jan, when I will
start the program again. If the skin and the weather will help me, I will go to
attempt them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOSYg9hKsxe3SiPIS_Osx4BfZ7IiuIOQ4qzZ9kiNo1pF5Jxh5MRKTxAP2M1N4r7bKNSZs7p6ATGPo85wLtiGYoi7I66vwL2skpmcNiGcLkEK-u0N9NIQfuuHWbppaHin3gGJKcUsoPILU/s1600/Ninja+Skills+8B+,+Sobrio+(CH).%2BPhoto%2BGiulia%2BPaoletti%2B(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOSYg9hKsxe3SiPIS_Osx4BfZ7IiuIOQ4qzZ9kiNo1pF5Jxh5MRKTxAP2M1N4r7bKNSZs7p6ATGPo85wLtiGYoi7I66vwL2skpmcNiGcLkEK-u0N9NIQfuuHWbppaHin3gGJKcUsoPILU/s1600/Ninja+Skills+8B+,+Sobrio+(CH).%2BPhoto%2BGiulia%2BPaoletti%2B(3).jpg" height="640" width="422" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ninja Skills 8B+, Ticino. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-39573471485109765132014-11-11T17:41:00.000+01:002014-11-11T17:41:53.981+01:00Albarracin (Spain)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_ygFpTWxR8SeGMBpuiYCOGdvi8_6kP-moNwePTa61vpjKTk2wQkNhrAWE_z1xPvZwKBNdbpmSmp2qrZgJoGFgtnHkZlVbcOxOnyTl_ltPe2xTz122Do3nDk8KCUvbzQ_Z1GxIFTLPRs/s1600/Checking+out+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BVivi%2BMonteiro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ_ygFpTWxR8SeGMBpuiYCOGdvi8_6kP-moNwePTa61vpjKTk2wQkNhrAWE_z1xPvZwKBNdbpmSmp2qrZgJoGFgtnHkZlVbcOxOnyTl_ltPe2xTz122Do3nDk8KCUvbzQ_Z1GxIFTLPRs/s640/Checking+out+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BVivi%2BMonteiro.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking the forest of Albarracin (SPA). Photo Vivi Monteiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Many
magazines often speak about climbing destinations in Spain and a lot of images
and videos are scattered in all the web regarding the good places that this
country can offer. I have always heard stories from Spain; several climbers I
know have been there, checking the most famous cliff of Europe or the cool Spanish
bouldering areas. I actually don't know why, but before two weeks ago I have
never been to Iberian peninsula. This is probably due to the fact that I am not
so approachable with the Spanish atmosphere or with the Mediterranean culture
or I don't know, maybe I simply had other plans to do before going in a
bouldering area there. Anyway, I was pretty curious to go and I was totally
sure that soon or later I would have been to Albarracin, maybe the largest
known bouldering area of the country and probably the finest one too. In the
late summer of 2012, together with Giulia, we already considered to spend a
week in Aragon, but knowing about the high temperatures we opted to postpone in
the future. That time we went to Wallis, a southern region of Swiss. It was an
amazing week, but Albarracin was still missing in our list. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Despite the
long 6 weeks that we spent in US at the beginning of the year, Giulia was lucky
enough to get another week off at the end of October. At first, we thought to
go to check the boulders around Helsinki, a place where both would be glad to
go one day. Unfortunately it was a bit too expensive for our current resources,
so we fell back to a cheaper trip. Albarracin was another big area that tickled
the desires of both, it was economic, the climate at the end of October supposed
to be dry and we were both sure to find tons of boulders to satisfy our
requests. Moreover, after the long time I took to recover my injury, I knew I
would have not been able to reach a good shape before October. For this reason
Albaracin seemed to be perfect; I would have had a lot of stuff where to climb
and it seemed to be an ideal area where to take confidence back with the rock
and with the climbing gesture. This concept looked to be much smarter than
going somewhere to dedicate energies only to hard projects. Just before
leaving, Nils told me he would have been there in the same days of us and we
were both motivated to climb together again after long time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Obviously a
week ran away quickly; but once we were back home, Giulia and I discovered to
have done the right choice about the crag. We were both satisfied, the desire
had been paid off and the quality of the place was definitively up to our
expectations. The rock is simply superb and every boulders has a medium-high
quality. The marvelous thing about the place in my opinion regards the mix of
the features. It can be consider like a perfect mix between the best sandstone
places where I have been to. You can find the mantle and the technical stuff
typical of font, the roof and the athletic lines of Rocklands and some holds
similar to Red Rocks. It didn't seem real. For this reason the factor I mostly
prefer was the climbing style of the area, probably the favorite one I have
ever met. The Small town of Albarracin is also beautiful and characteristic,
with its ancient walls and the autumn colors of the period. The wood is also
pleasant, rich of pines, characterized by the Mediterranean atmospheres and the
pre-historical rock paintings. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Once we got
in the wood, I obviously couldn't wait to check all the problem I had in my
mind and, despite the temperatures weren't the best, I was really glad to be there.
In fact, for all the week the temperatures kept on 20 degrees, without the wind
that we expected so much. But since the rain didn't come, I think it is not
fair to complain the "warmness" but rather we should thank the dry climate
we found all the days. Taking a day off turned into an intricate thing. I was
able to rest just one day when I opted to brush and to check the exit of
Zartako, a huge red sandstone pillar 8 meters tall that I was not capable of
trying for a scare excess. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I had a lot
of lines in my mind as I said, but the top three project were
"Esperanza", "Indian secret garden" and "zartako".
The first one was the most beautiful one of the three: a perfect font style
egg, totally red with awesome sandstone features, tricky moves and incredible
slopers. It looked like a font's best, but with red sandstone. The sweating
troubles accompanied me for all the week and, especially on Esperanza and Bindu,
I had to fight a lot to try to overcome this negative side which I can't
currently resolve. After a full morning of attempts I opted to rest until the
evening, in order to get my skin dry as much as I could. Just before the
attempts, the temperature dropped down of 2/3 degrees. I knew I had just one
possible go, after of that my skin would have been like in the morning and I
would have not finish it. The slightly colder evening, together with a lotion
of alcool and pine resin, helped my skin a lot; I was searching for everything
to get over the fucking high sweating. I started leaving the troubles out of my
mind and I reached the crux where I fall off in the morning. The "colder"
skin and the harder right shoe gave me a good help to get into the last easy
part where I knew that I couldn't fail anymore. Thanks to these little
precautions I was able to send.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6iNsKI2_jrNPwCIb0QagycpGMVB-emae9C6XnFCArWYWw5g5fP6dz93QKFoR4v_WTKNRTMtUnBXr2mvw0K4AERItrGbDXLc1meD8vHjz0amrIqXf_KiTY2d7t2NfHu8StVUz-gzQcdME/s1600/+Indian+secret+garden+8B,+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BGiulia%2BPaoletti%2B(5).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6iNsKI2_jrNPwCIb0QagycpGMVB-emae9C6XnFCArWYWw5g5fP6dz93QKFoR4v_WTKNRTMtUnBXr2mvw0K4AERItrGbDXLc1meD8vHjz0amrIqXf_KiTY2d7t2NfHu8StVUz-gzQcdME/s640/+Indian+secret+garden+8B,+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BGiulia%2BPaoletti%2B(5).jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Indian secret garden" 8B, Albarracin (SPA). Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9DgycnQ414DAenUhM0Jwq6TkD3vbXQ1bc9CvgOufd99rO8nsUr4sWl9MiGvH5ozDi9dH9OUgUzupKsvmbCnZzT1gkdnIKIScoC_JRG6Bsa8s6GA_PRHXPu30qngJlk2wfNzzTSHUAUsU/s1600/+Indian+secret+garden+8B,+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BGiulia%2BPaoletti%2B(4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9DgycnQ414DAenUhM0Jwq6TkD3vbXQ1bc9CvgOufd99rO8nsUr4sWl9MiGvH5ozDi9dH9OUgUzupKsvmbCnZzT1gkdnIKIScoC_JRG6Bsa8s6GA_PRHXPu30qngJlk2wfNzzTSHUAUsU/s640/+Indian+secret+garden+8B,+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BGiulia%2BPaoletti%2B(4).jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Indian secret garden" 8B, Albarracin (SPA). Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Even Indian
secret garden was mentally pretty tough. Having just a week, the time to work
the lines you want to climb is really short, for this reason you have to
optimize as much as possible all the processes, the sessions and the details.
The first day on it I was really on the limit during the attempts. It destroyed
me completely and I was pretty afraid to not rest enough before the
subsequently session. Just to give a presentation of the line, it is 70 degrees
steep, with pure wide compression moves and an ending sequences of great toe
hooks which I immediately loved. The FA is signed by Christian Core and it is
definitively awesome despite the two little sins. The first one deals of the
stone on the right which is really close, while the second one is that you have
to drop off once you reach the top. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The second
day on it was challenging too. When I
was getting warm my thoughts were totally dedicated to this goal. Damn, I
really wanted to climb that problem. I needed and I wanted to feel my body and
my mind on the limit after the bad period I had this summer. I got under the
boulder around quarter past nine, ready to try it. The skin was awful, but I
knew that it could be decent for one attempt. I wanted to reach the upper part
(where I failed the first day) with good skin in order to don't fail for the
high sweating. During the first attempt this thing could happen, while other more
goes would have been unuseful. Since I had just one more day left, I should
have done on the first go and I was pretty tense. I tried to focus my mind on
the climbing days I had last spring; in that period I probably had a step in my
mental approaching and I tried to get into the most positive mood. Fortunately
on the first go it went down and the biggest effort of the week was paid off by
the nice climbing style.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The day of
Indian secret garden got to the end in the best way; Giulia grabbed the ascent
of the wonderful classic "Spider pig" 6C after the climbing of the
day before, ruined by a dub caused by me. Zartako, the other main goal I had,
is postponed to the next visit. After the big fall I had in September, the
feelings on the highest stuff are still timid and conservatory.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The
positive effect of Albarracin is still alive. During the last week of bad
weather I thought a lot about the few days we had there and I felt a bit
melancholic. The climbing style and the features of that place surprised me a
lot and I can't wait to go back.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I
fortunately had enough time to finish other masterpieces in the forest, but
there is not enough time to tell about. Here a list of the problem I did in
order of beauty (in my opinion). The grade opinion are personal like always.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Lamiche at mitges 8A</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
El Apeadero sit 8A</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Esperanza
8B<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Homo
Ergaster 7C Flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Klem's
traverse 8A Flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Zombie
Nation 8A/+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Supernafamacho
7B+ Flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Indian
secret garden 8B<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Dizdira 7C Flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Revenge 7C+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Helicopter
on the beaches 8A+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Zarzamora 7C+</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Zarzaparrilla 8A+</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Zatoichi 7C Flash</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">El Varano
7C Flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Cosmos 8A
Flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Helicopter 8A</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
El Orejas de la Regletas 7C+</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; margin-bottom: 0.0001pt;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bindu 8A+/B</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #222222; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fDtI_XPteASGeXhtiAG3QRuWqFi4gnnehv0x5WV0dcc8sFS_UeyKqFcxasYDT42tMo1GSGfVJs6NXeLQH7KxijC4cxFd2uMlhhwEUPxNs8PfLgKATysbY7sRDhC_Mgv48GmgUo9l8Bg/s1600/Giulia+Paoletti+on+Spider+pig+6C,+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BVivi%2BMonteiro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fDtI_XPteASGeXhtiAG3QRuWqFi4gnnehv0x5WV0dcc8sFS_UeyKqFcxasYDT42tMo1GSGfVJs6NXeLQH7KxijC4cxFd2uMlhhwEUPxNs8PfLgKATysbY7sRDhC_Mgv48GmgUo9l8Bg/s640/Giulia+Paoletti+on+Spider+pig+6C,+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BVivi%2BMonteiro.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giulia on "Spider pig" 6C, Albarracin (SPA). Photo Vivi monteiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRwlpQNTKFjKoGe1HGA1js9KF3LuEO8A6NOlJNUEbFSZtGRF1dOm1GBj9SWbOc0th4_eAjEs8ROlaG98k13RUwqdmUKijrfCIh5g4nR-8M3l5B7VNDA4tpPenoI8W67Dd1IOilBXc87Q/s1600/Lamiche+a+mitges+8A,+Albarracin+(SPA)%2BPhoto%2BVivi%2BMonteiro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMRwlpQNTKFjKoGe1HGA1js9KF3LuEO8A6NOlJNUEbFSZtGRF1dOm1GBj9SWbOc0th4_eAjEs8ROlaG98k13RUwqdmUKijrfCIh5g4nR-8M3l5B7VNDA4tpPenoI8W67Dd1IOilBXc87Q/s640/Lamiche+a+mitges+8A,+Albarracin+(SPA)%2BPhoto%2BVivi%2BMonteiro.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Lamiche at mitges" 8A, Albarracin (SPA). Photo Vivi Monteiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf2EophchGKihJBpx2MNdOALh34rg-Yk14PyJH3ycvpATG4jw5BTf7CcfZ4SN9XZWgqjPknE7Th-aBfiB_k95vdcxehmxXrnbDIp71mmB127d2b1OxGn2YkDAPWN-8EHIRi4TN4lAQAPo/s1600/Zombie+Nation+8A,+Albarracin+(Spain).%2BPhoto%2BGiulia%2BPaoletti%2B(4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="354" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf2EophchGKihJBpx2MNdOALh34rg-Yk14PyJH3ycvpATG4jw5BTf7CcfZ4SN9XZWgqjPknE7Th-aBfiB_k95vdcxehmxXrnbDIp71mmB127d2b1OxGn2YkDAPWN-8EHIRi4TN4lAQAPo/s640/Zombie+Nation+8A,+Albarracin+(Spain).%2BPhoto%2BGiulia%2BPaoletti%2B(4).jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Zombie Nation" 8A, Albarracin (SPA). Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJ8OMNMDz8-k98Wm1fMxVvNsfIHExVn2VFko2JorqCHSuZW2RlLD2t6AzTNBC2weAmRFcccZLSEH-4Wr8IRb7mJ6MgsMdCpdiP1-FvK_nSyCctRAH76ya2IKwojdwdE3PeYLE1szTj_I/s1600/El+apeadero+sit+8A,+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BVivi%2BMonteiro%2B(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtJ8OMNMDz8-k98Wm1fMxVvNsfIHExVn2VFko2JorqCHSuZW2RlLD2t6AzTNBC2weAmRFcccZLSEH-4Wr8IRb7mJ6MgsMdCpdiP1-FvK_nSyCctRAH76ya2IKwojdwdE3PeYLE1szTj_I/s640/El+apeadero+sit+8A,+Albarracin+(SPA).%2BPhoto%2BVivi%2BMonteiro%2B(3).jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"El Apeadero sit" 8A, Albarracin (SPA). Photo Vivi Monteiro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="color: #222222; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: IT;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-27953183148606958022014-10-02T15:29:00.001+02:002014-10-02T15:30:50.063+02:00September 2014 - New projects<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The last
months has been pretty busy under different aspects and my mind has been invaded
by a big wave of projects. The wrist had a positive trend for all the month,
but the tendons and ligaments are still weak. I felt they are not ready for a
hard training period, but at least they don't give me troubles when I climb on
the rock. As I mentioned the month has been various, rich and a bit confused
too. First of all I had a wide list of boulders I would have liked to brush. At
the moment, I am feeling quite excited about going to search awesome lines around
and the discovering side of climbing is providing me always bigger and bigger
satisfactions. The top boulders I wanted to brushed are all situated in the
north west of Italy; few of them are in Valle dell'Orco, others in Valle
d'Aosta, and a couple of cool projects are even present in a valley close to my
home. During this period I was able to brush just four of the many projects and
three of them required me one day and a half only for cleaning up the holds and
making a safe landing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">One of them
is up to Champorcher, an area whose potential is probably getting to an end.
This was maybe the last thing I was interested in developing here. Since the
beginning, It looked to be a really weird line: you have to climb a little easy
stone and then grab the starting holds in the roof above your head. From there the
climb begins in an imposing overhang and it gets out in a slightly overhanging
wall with compression moves and heel hooks. The hardest part was the first
section on the roof, where everything seems to be tricky and pretty physical.
During the second day of attempts, I tried this problem together with Max. He
got a really smart heel hook beta which looked to be the best; but
unfortunately neither of us was able to link the moves with what it seemed to
be the most obvious way. I opted to work another system, based on body tension
and specific points where to grab the holds. After many attempts where I was
getting closer and closer I finally got the big triangle pinch at the end of
the roof and I linked the first part to the easier finish, putting up the first
ascent.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIwv0Y9TAfh2UtrxyrtBwDDfCItwGcYWIhjxf8LJ4uqb1Qk7Dy4xbO_RxivopFEoFHEJxkdmCjwNzjI5Xklcytf0fS3bG7mNSWHvgX8b7coYfsO8IU8EZxaU-PAgD1fn27UXbjCk987GM/s1600/10681578_10152264296705178_969829791_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIwv0Y9TAfh2UtrxyrtBwDDfCItwGcYWIhjxf8LJ4uqb1Qk7Dy4xbO_RxivopFEoFHEJxkdmCjwNzjI5Xklcytf0fS3bG7mNSWHvgX8b7coYfsO8IU8EZxaU-PAgD1fn27UXbjCk987GM/s1600/10681578_10152264296705178_969829791_n.jpg" height="640" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rust in Peace V11/12, FA. Champorcher. Photo Max Buvoli</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5_FS67zXQb0xqTE_J3_AzJVOmshOqk1LPeNtKxyC15ifKKq7_XhteOxuZtp5m4vBASZgGXd_IkR3MBKDNZZkbE_rqqJyrO1MhUmjjx19hW-CQ22CtfUN6Gy_0ovd7LASnbZylAntkLE/s1600/The+ship+project+in+Champorcher.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk5_FS67zXQb0xqTE_J3_AzJVOmshOqk1LPeNtKxyC15ifKKq7_XhteOxuZtp5m4vBASZgGXd_IkR3MBKDNZZkbE_rqqJyrO1MhUmjjx19hW-CQ22CtfUN6Gy_0ovd7LASnbZylAntkLE/s1600/The+ship+project+in+Champorcher.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+(2).jpg" height="640" width="440" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rust in Peace V11/12, FA. Champorcher. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The other
two main projects I was interested in, were the big diamond I discovered in Noasca
and a great river stone in a valley close to my home. The first one is huge; It
is an impressive granite diamond with some slopy rails and a long climbing to
reach the top. Once the day of brushing was over, I decided to come back with
Ricky who helped me a lot to make a good landing. Meanwhile, the dirty residual
of the brushing was drying up and the grip started to be better than the first
time I touched the holds. The first intro part is pretty easy and the taller
you are the easier it becomes. Instead the upper part results really strange
with a big dynamic move to the lip. It is definitively a wonderful move, where
from two slopy pinches and a really high left foot you should grab the final
lip and you'll probably remain with only one hand hung. Considering the height
of the boulder, I tried that move with the rope only. After this, I decided to
postpone the attempts when the temperatures will be colder and the grip on the
holds will be much better. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrfFNf5TfLHAeTAKu3ZeokmK2V1p1KwnoWKv9hEosqAdEOzrexFhW8nnodORIVBCwRzzD7Yws8zj-oPVNL3LlZt6IJ1N5KsNrSajW2dSaiSKmaRc74BaqqrsJ77NpeBKyDyno03VYeZvc/s1600/Proj+(5).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrfFNf5TfLHAeTAKu3ZeokmK2V1p1KwnoWKv9hEosqAdEOzrexFhW8nnodORIVBCwRzzD7Yws8zj-oPVNL3LlZt6IJ1N5KsNrSajW2dSaiSKmaRc74BaqqrsJ77NpeBKyDyno03VYeZvc/s1600/Proj+(5).jpg" height="428" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The diamond. Valle dell'Orco</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The third
one is probably the project I am most inspired for. It is 40 minutes up to my
home and the feeling to have a project so close is an unique sensation, since
it is never happened to me. I can get up in the morning and I can basically see
the valley where the proj is. This thing makes the question sweet. I brushed
the line on this big egg last spring and
I got a quick session in April without any good successes, despite my best
shape ever. I love this project for two main factors; the first reason, as I
said, is to have something so cool and so close to home; while the second one
is due to the beauty of the line and the good rock it has, especially in the
second part. For September, it was at the top of to-do list but I have been a
bit unlucky with this problem. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The first
time on it, I brushed all the last slab
again, since it became dirty during the heat of the summer and just before the
dark I tried a bit the upper moves with the rope. After few tries it became too
dark and I quitted. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">2nd day on.
The first part was damp so I could just attempt the second easier section.
After having put the chalk and tried the moves, the rain came and I
had to leave once again. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">3rd day on.
The sky looked to be clear. I put the chalk on the exit again and I dried up
the third hold which makes the crux part. I finally could try it seriously.
Thanks to Ricky who helped me a lot in trying the moves with big push ups, I
could understand the right sequence. The sessions got over positive. The crux
move was still missing, but I did it with 4-5 kilos of push-up. The other move
that missed was the 5th, but for this one I had positive sensations because it
looked easier, I had just to try it more. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">4th day on.
I went up alone just to dry up the crux hold and to be sure for the day after
(it usually remains wet for few days). Surprisingly it dried up faster than
what I expected and I decided to try it a bit. I was alone with three smashed
pads, but it was enough to try the bottom. I couldn't expect what it happened; I
grabbed the damned holds and I failed on the move after. I opted to quit and to
rest for the day after. I started to know that I was close and that probably
the crux move would have been the 4th, since the 3rd one looked to be hard but in
the end it is totally position depending. Once you get the right body position,
you can do it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">5th day on.
I went up with Ricky again. The friction looked even better, but in the end it was
the same or even worse than the day before. I was anyway motivated and focused
on the proj. I felt some possibilities to finish the rig the same day. I put the chalk on the exit for the nth time
and I repeated the final moves over and over. I knew them perfectly. I rested
until the evening, when the "colder" temps came and the skin got harder.
I made good tries. I managed to grab the third hold again, but I failed on the
4th moves. I tried that part with the push up and I did it. I felt I was going closer
and closer. On the other side, I also felt my skin sweating a lot, so I rested
for ten minutes or so. I finally perceived my hands a bit colder and I decided
to go. I took the third hold perfectly and I did the hardest move after. I
linked this one to the 5th and I grabbed the jug with a bit of fatigue and a
strong shout. A shout which meant effort, but even a shout of possibility to
complete the whole line. I was out of the hardest part. I got into the central sequence,
where the overhang becomes a wall with wonderful pinches. I did it and I got
the good pinch-jug; I was tired. From there the wall become a slab and there is
a possible rest. From that point to the top is something like 6b composed by a
little mantle into the slab and the slab itself. I rested and my hands were
damp, cold and totally pink. I thought about the chalk, but I hadn't the bag
with me. I tried to dry up the fingers on my pants, and they started to be
numb. I put the hands close to my neck to warm them up and the feelings started
to be slightly better, but not enough. There were two possibilities: to go on
in the slab, or dropping off and trying it again hoping to get into the upper
part in better conditions. The last option seemed to be far from my
possibilities, because I felt tired. By knowing what there was between me and
the top I decided to attempt; the boulder was done and I just had to do the
last easy part. I breathed and I went. I started and once my body was totally
on the slab and my feet still under in the wall, my right foot slipped and I
fall down. I got scarred and I totally missed the pads, falling on a bunch of
stones. Fortunately my heel hit a flat stone and I got just a really hard hit.
It was done, but not at all. I have to come back to finish this beautiful problem
but for the moment I have to recover a bit the foot and to get back in a good
mentality for this gem.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Beyond
these great projects, In my mind there is also another 5 starts arete to get
free; A line I brushed last march in Donnas (Valle d'Aosta) which is incredible.
A perfect vertical arete which is probably the biggest project of the year. For
the moment the temperatures are still too high and I have to wait for a while;
but once the temperatures will drop and the heel will be ready, this project
will probably be at the top of the list.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVJ7C9ZQoVVB76p-IBSq7frJOFhKtrdIONU4FnNsSXuNfE_qi0BFHG7ekZ6wqXXuNS0ng4CXuJaMcyiIkf-uJxAMxZBasl8gMPE16dcTv1RtdDThupma9CVwtVJJTVpa-c1J7uUPUjaxs/s1600/10710521_10202837973926690_2822369818166287362_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVJ7C9ZQoVVB76p-IBSq7frJOFhKtrdIONU4FnNsSXuNfE_qi0BFHG7ekZ6wqXXuNS0ng4CXuJaMcyiIkf-uJxAMxZBasl8gMPE16dcTv1RtdDThupma9CVwtVJJTVpa-c1J7uUPUjaxs/s1600/10710521_10202837973926690_2822369818166287362_n.jpg" height="640" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crux move of the project. Valle Cervo. Photo Ricky totò Monetta<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_N8XXwDujImLeefFep5SofhdlBYah9xRPYK19sZIxuFUGAv2IJSBt7AGpRaiHIFLy2LT03RATxRJK5s67VlcMg_IiHlz0HbL2FJWLJOaYv9Jj2QtUaFFQjh2-E48D4uAc4Z6ZZOtiUs/s1600/..._2+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_N8XXwDujImLeefFep5SofhdlBYah9xRPYK19sZIxuFUGAv2IJSBt7AGpRaiHIFLy2LT03RATxRJK5s67VlcMg_IiHlz0HbL2FJWLJOaYv9Jj2QtUaFFQjh2-E48D4uAc4Z6ZZOtiUs/s1600/..._2+(2).JPG" height="640" width="410" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The arete project. Valle d'Aosta.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Beyond
exploring new boulders in the north west of Italy, two weeks ago I began
training again. I started a short program which includes some sessions using
different systems of training and the goals are to equal the right side of my
body to the left one, since the right arm is really weak. Secondly, I decided
to include different sessions in order to get the confidence back on the
systems I usually use for training. I set 2 sessions in the climbing gym, 3 of core
works, 5 of stretching for the flexibility, 2 of campus training (fingerboard
and PG), 2 sessions with overweight and 2 sessions of rock bouldering in the
projects I mentioned before. But in the second week, since my heel was painful
after the fall, I needed to stop and I could just climbing outdoor. I went a
couple of days in Averstal with Rudy. I
was also excited to work some boulders, leaving the tall projects aside for a
while and feeling again the peculiar sensations of the place. Unfortunately,
none of us completed the own goals; no achievement for both after the weekend.
He went really close to grab the ascent on "Morgenlatte" 7B and he
made huge progresses on "Man of a cow" 7B+; Instead, I worked one day
on "Ill trill", making every moves except the exit and I missed the
ascent on the top out of "Muttertag". We are both motivated to come
back soon, trying to complete something before the snow comes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-74460441909296356082014-09-03T21:37:00.000+02:002014-10-02T15:38:25.114+02:00Summer is almost over<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">August is
now behind us and the first days of September are always exciting because of the
first moments of Autumn. My favorite seasons are still quite distant, but the
sultriness of the planes is making more and more space to a clear sky and fresh
days. The desire to come back bouldering is actually lofty, but the wrist is
not totally ready yet for every move or every hold and I think I should give to
it more time to recover. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In fact, for
the second week in a row, I postpone the beginning of a training program; the
feelings are not so bad, but at the same time I am not feeling sure and
positive at 100%. I opted to take another week of rest, to go climbing other three
or four days, to make something soft at the fingerboard and to see how the
issue will roll. This plan sounds to be the best for me since I should avoid
the rush and leave the mind to take more and more confidence to get in shape
again. Moreover, this week I should have the outcomes of the second RMI so I
will understand better how the injury has reacted to the first days of
climbing. I have got nine days of bouldering since I restarted climbing (12th
of August) and the wrist didn't give me big troubles except the last Friday
when I perceived a bit of painful. So, I think that the problem is not
acquitted, but it is going better than this spring or summer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">As I said,
the last three weeks have been devoted to get confidence in climbing gesture. I
mainly went to Champorcher, an area where I climbed many problems and I knew
them pretty well. I repeated some moderates lines I put up during these years
and the feelings with the rock is growing up time after time. I started to work
a connection which links two problems: "Under the carpet" and
"Q*bert". The middle section is awful, since it passes through some bad
jugs, but the traverse itself results funny for the good moves it offers.
Despite I knew that I wasn't under the best line, the challenge for the mind
and the body was quite stimulant and I was curious to see how the process would
have developed. I felt I should have fought to win it and I felt that I could
climb hard since the holds weren't painful. After three sessions, two of which
got to the end fast cause of skin
troubles, I was able to send it. The first "hard" test after the
resting period had been approved.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The day
after I went with a couple of friends to Noasca (Valle dell'Orco), to see a
place that I wanted to check since few months. I knew that Bernd Zangerl put up
different problems in this valley and many of them looked to be good. As I
imaged, the lines I watched on the video are really impressive and even if the
rock is not my favorite, the shapes are really stunning. Especially two of
them, "self aperto" and "El Salvador", take delight of a
remarkable beauty. Unfortunately, the combo between my worst skin ever and the
sharp rock let me climb just half an hour; after this, every hold I grabbed
became moist and every effort<s> </s>seemed to be vain. I took profit by the drawback
to make a check in a stony chaos up to the road, where I supposed to discover
some virgin lines. Fortunately, I found some of the things I hoped to see and a
bunch of boulders seems to be worthy and good. The most impressive one deals of
a big diamond which quickly got into the list of the lines I want to brush. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The
week later I decided to come back with my dad, hoping in a better skin. I tried
the sit start version of "Temenoi" 8A/+, which is characterized by a
hard heel hook intro and a cool tensioning climbing at the end. Surprisingly I
got the first move quickly and I found myself in the upper section before the
top. There, I felt my hands soaked again, I grabbed every holds wrongly and I
missed the ascent. I was frustrated by the skin issue which was continuing to
give me problems, but on the other side I thought about the normality of it,
due to many days without rock. Thanks to some toe hooks and a comfortable
position I found, I was able to take chalk in the middle and accordingly I had
dry hands in the top sequence. This thing has been crucial to complete the line
and to get another dose of happiness at the top.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">In the
afternoon I went up to the chaos to brush the big diamond I checked the
previous time. I was quite stoked by the thing that came out. The line looked
to be amazing and gorgeous as I hoped.
The main line I wanted to brush is still waiting, since it is quite hard to
reach the hold, even with a rope. While the other two ones are now chalked and
I hope to come back soon to make a good landing and to attempt them seriously.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Always
thinking about some projects, last week I was finally able to brush another
line I saw last May in Champorcher, which I never started to clean since I
thought that was necessary to cut two branches of a big tree. I was a bit
disappointed by this fact, since I really care about the trees and I think they
have the priority on the climbers. Fortunately, while I was dropping down with
the rope, I discovered that the tree wasn't a problem and there was enough space
to climb the roof avoiding to remove the branches. I started to be actually
fascinated by the big line which was taking shape while I was brushing. Four
hours were sufficient just to get ready the upper part, while I had to wait the
day after to clean up the bottom sequence, which looked to be tricky, hard and
physical. Ricky came up that day as well. Together we arranged the lower roof, the
starting stone and we began to try it. We weren't close to understand the beta,
but if the first holds didn't break I am positive about the possibilities to
climb the imposing rig. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAGW_xmiTTUELU1VrTJShyphenhyphencnkQ5KG4uvExOYPIupc7AZkRgQ1zGTqdw5ze_81IvtJ4i5sfuoybeNCJ1123nD75ydpSx2PsARY1S9LMm8lgtSuZAldlk1dZ7EioLfkvdm2qdOov0X_B_Q/s1600/The+ship+project+in+Champorcher.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAGW_xmiTTUELU1VrTJShyphenhyphencnkQ5KG4uvExOYPIupc7AZkRgQ1zGTqdw5ze_81IvtJ4i5sfuoybeNCJ1123nD75ydpSx2PsARY1S9LMm8lgtSuZAldlk1dZ7EioLfkvdm2qdOov0X_B_Q/s1600/The+ship+project+in+Champorcher.+Photo+Giulia+Paoletti+(1).jpg" height="640" width="462" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working on the ship project, Valle d'Aosta. Photo Giulia Paoletti</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxKl91BO3DIGNe0GEtK0Bt_LKCZX0nNVsRZAI8JYXkoeGwmfk0ZxsyAZ1k7NjLNTNtuESdaLD9TVHlUwA3BPrGBkrLnheDZw2lEZRRcaOFFl92m5icwI4d3e0BRVZOM01ohU37lxIIVjc/s1600/Me+under+Bravirabi,+Noasca+(Valle%2Bdell'Orco).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxKl91BO3DIGNe0GEtK0Bt_LKCZX0nNVsRZAI8JYXkoeGwmfk0ZxsyAZ1k7NjLNTNtuESdaLD9TVHlUwA3BPrGBkrLnheDZw2lEZRRcaOFFl92m5icwI4d3e0BRVZOM01ohU37lxIIVjc/s1600/Me+under+Bravirabi,+Noasca+(Valle%2Bdell'Orco).jpg" height="610" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking at the beautiful sequence of "Bravirabi", Valle dell'Orco.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZVWvwn6F9KfdNLDgamQgRWrXyR1C983F1WT2Xs8iZzCPN4fksn4cHOs_btzCx4ASXIlFp86bIeJk8zaAV52wovn0aNGSmcQNqQ6HAdSbzq4PXkqBg92S9ezmLrD9st_gqTF2E3bZJ1nQ/s1600/Temenoi+8A-A+,+Noasca+(Valle%2Bdell'Orco)%2B(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZVWvwn6F9KfdNLDgamQgRWrXyR1C983F1WT2Xs8iZzCPN4fksn4cHOs_btzCx4ASXIlFp86bIeJk8zaAV52wovn0aNGSmcQNqQ6HAdSbzq4PXkqBg92S9ezmLrD9st_gqTF2E3bZJ1nQ/s1600/Temenoi+8A-A+,+Noasca+(Valle%2Bdell'Orco)%2B(2).jpg" height="428" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temenoi 8A/+, Valle dell'orco.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJU3F_8W83xUtbCfRJABd1K5AQ9BqJJ0bDWDyVMvy2ocRBxHHfQN9BiXB34eN6JM4nIJJTlWg3txH6uSQDxjjoK-JoFVIMis1TiZaP5He0xdVA4nG09jT04eHVpSeHtTeKhsWmz2-XA6A/s1600/Temenoi+8A-A+,+Noasca+(Valle%2Bdell'Orco)%2B(5).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJU3F_8W83xUtbCfRJABd1K5AQ9BqJJ0bDWDyVMvy2ocRBxHHfQN9BiXB34eN6JM4nIJJTlWg3txH6uSQDxjjoK-JoFVIMis1TiZaP5He0xdVA4nG09jT04eHVpSeHtTeKhsWmz2-XA6A/s1600/Temenoi+8A-A+,+Noasca+(Valle%2Bdell'Orco)%2B(5).jpg" height="336" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temenoi 8A/+, Valle dell'orco.</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-45998919514150411182014-08-17T20:39:00.000+02:002016-04-07T10:14:04.653+02:0040 days<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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By checking the second-last blog spot I wrote, I can realize that something went wrong respect my thoughts. In fact, the title of it said "little injury" and it should have suggested what I supposed to have in my wrist. Seventy more days are passed from that post, and four full months are spent from the beginning of the issue. Nowadays I started to set aside the term "little", using maybe a more serious adjective. The clearness of the problem came out with a MRI, at the end of July: Lesion of ligament, lesion of the triangular cartilage and inflammation around the capsule. The suggestion has been clear like painful: a minimum of forty days of rest without any kind of climbing or training. During these days, it has been quite hard to keep the motivation high and to try to lose as less as possible from the physical and the mental shape. I opted to dedicate more time to some aspects I usually don't look after like body tension exercises, stretching and one arm fingerboard with the left hand. Fortunately, bouldering is not only composed by body tension and one arm hangs, but by infinite things and by a specific way to link all of them in a unique system. In this way, unfortunately to me, I could just keep good a very small package of skills. For this reason, I was doubtful that the few qualities I trained could be helpful once I re-started climbing, since the other parts of the system would have been weak.
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Last Monday (two day after the ending of the resting period) I got the first pull-ups and the day after I went out to check how my wrist would have answered to some efforts. I was quite tense and pretty negative. Fortunately the first feelings were pretty good and the first day was completed. Results: no pain in the wrist (even in some crucial position of the hand), troubles in the capsule of the medium finger, absence of any kind of climbing coordination, worst skin ever and wearying in my right arm. Now; I guess that the last three things could be pretty normal after a month and a half without rock, but the second gave me some care while the first one let me to keep on hoping. On Wednesday the right arm was really painful, probably due to the day I had; while the wrist presented some acute pain to the higher part. The day after, this problem looked to be over and I opted to a fast evening session on the rock. I decided to go to a really known area, just to try to repeat some known problems until V8. The second day went better than the first; the wrist seemed to be pretty good, the finger capsule slightly better as well as the pain in my right arm. Yesterday was the third day of climbing and the feelings went even better: I could climb different styles of problems, put up new easy and cool lines and enjoy a great day with Marco in Champorcher.
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Finally after forty days I can have some positive feelings, keeping the motivation and the love for climbing as high as always and dreaming about my future. The thoughts in this long period have been pretty various; I think it could be hard for everyone to stop what you love and many people can understand. Sometimes you realize how hard it is, other times you try to think not and to be positive, thinking about the best things you did in the last months. Now the situation is still really delicate. My next goal is to manage the next week climbing and texting again the trend of the pain. Subsequently I will maybe try to make a little program of recovery and come back as soon as possible, but giving the highest priority to the feeling of the body.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwmA0ggxZx1wRS9SfJL84eh6dTG3OwI7waTBMtF0hYONbhrB5svrJbS4tghuEABA7cnKdpAvRn2E5NjFU7SEOYdllUfNVX9pBoWnulZ8N9_jdYNFD1Xbrq7u-arN-9264xJtOzU_2WaSw/s1600/New+champ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwmA0ggxZx1wRS9SfJL84eh6dTG3OwI7waTBMtF0hYONbhrB5svrJbS4tghuEABA7cnKdpAvRn2E5NjFU7SEOYdllUfNVX9pBoWnulZ8N9_jdYNFD1Xbrq7u-arN-9264xJtOzU_2WaSw/s1600/New+champ.jpg" width="636" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New problem in Champorcher. Photo Marco Pelle</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8731620431904553147.post-1113315254677174092014-06-29T21:48:00.002+02:002016-04-07T10:14:42.719+02:00Gliese 581 - A new gem in Champorcher<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span lang="EN-US">The injury
which I am bearing from April is still alive and the wrist has reached a condition
of stability where it doesn't improve but at the same time it is not even
getting worse. I have recently been in a medical sportive center, where they diagnosed
two possible options about the issue: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">1)
Inflammation or problems related to the tendon (lower possibility)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">2) Lesion
in the triangle cartilage of the little articulation (higher possibility)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">They
advised me a check with a MRI; Tomorrow
morning I will finally know the real problem I have and the possible ways to
recover. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Obviously
when you have an injury you als</span>o have a little negative period and this is what
happened to me. I cannot go training as I want, I cannot climb on many things I
have planned and the motivation goes often down. But fortunately not every
aspect is bad, I am catching all the positive situations and sometimes I feel good.
I started training different things which I have always left out, like
abdominal sessions, push up and stretching. I am doing them 3 times per week
instead of 1 or 2 I usually did and this helps me a lot under the mental side,
since I can train different parts without pain. This is simply great.</div>
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<span lang="EN-US">For what
the climbing concerns, everything depends on the kind of holds I have to use.
Crimping is out for the moment as well as every holds where I have to twist my wrist.
Fortunately, some lines have positive features for my issue and I can climb
hard without pain. Few weeks ago I went to try the direct way to "Zarmina",
a line in Champorcher I put up last September. The original way is simply
awesome for me, especially for the sequence of particular movements and holds
that the overhang presents. I remember that when I brushed it up I remained
pretty amazed by how all the sidepull holds are on the straight line and how
the sequence seemed to be interesting. The more logical way for the simplicity
was to climb the wall until the second half and then to move towards the right
good sloper, by getting the top to the right on a slab. This year I gave a more
significant look to the straight line where instead of getting the good hold,
you keep more to the center wall with a perfect slopy pinch to do a big dyno,
grabbing the summit edge and going out directly. It looked to be a bit
arbitrary because of the easier version, but for the line itself I guess it is
a better way. The principal reasons which inspired me in this version were
absolutely the kind of movements and how all the holds from the start until the
last edge are on the same straight imaginary line.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The first
goes this season gave me positive feelings for my injury, since no holds were
painful and I could try it really focused and really hard. This was great for
me: I could keep positive thoughts and I had a goal despite the hot season and
the problem of the wrist. The first day of attempts I reclimbed the original
"Zarmina" and I started to get confidence on the big jump move; I
understood that it was possible, but I was quite far to stick it. The second
day I brushed it perfectly and some tickmarks helped me to go in the right
position on the edge. I grabbed it in many attempts, without keeping my body
on. The third session of the same day I went down with the rope again and I
fortunately understood micro differences which allowed me to hit the single
move. Great moment for the short effort, I felt so excited for this move I
really love.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">The third
day (fifth in total counting the past year) had pretty nice conditions for the
holds and my skin seemed to be better than the last period. After four hours of
tries from the bottom I grab the first ascent of this direct way. It has been
great for me, especially in this period where I couldn't have so many positive
feelings in climbing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Since Zarmina
is a "friendly" name of a far planet, I called it as the name of its
star, i.e. "Gliese 581".<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThRX8oVqzVob34AyOkovg_MRiKzR0ZISjOC0nkB7E5OvbQ5mcC2l3Bu4gyrxnaRsdruXGgT9Wd-uEBDQLrUrOeXTp4DSuKl7OAu20b8_chlLG6fRGUzH-OydgDIB3T40nnClcU8RgKwA/s1600/Schermata+06-2456838+alle+13.12.10+(2)+copia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhThRX8oVqzVob34AyOkovg_MRiKzR0ZISjOC0nkB7E5OvbQ5mcC2l3Bu4gyrxnaRsdruXGgT9Wd-uEBDQLrUrOeXTp4DSuKl7OAu20b8_chlLG6fRGUzH-OydgDIB3T40nnClcU8RgKwA/s1600/Schermata+06-2456838+alle+13.12.10+(2)+copia.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Gliese 581" FA, Champorcher. Pic from the video by Andrea Cossu</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEr3ZW9NPsxI5Uu1P5NxX2qVXVUo9zDxfc4anHrq6dDo0hspvj9v602cACpTh6QiUOYvaXqn3NhBkdwJjvBgj2JAha4STPwMNyTXzeLs1REzSBh_enhWGP7i0n4hXDWM2YQnQgS7-l7E/s1600/Schermata+06-2456838+alle+13.16.06+copia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpEr3ZW9NPsxI5Uu1P5NxX2qVXVUo9zDxfc4anHrq6dDo0hspvj9v602cACpTh6QiUOYvaXqn3NhBkdwJjvBgj2JAha4STPwMNyTXzeLs1REzSBh_enhWGP7i0n4hXDWM2YQnQgS7-l7E/s1600/Schermata+06-2456838+alle+13.16.06+copia.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Gliese 581" FA, Champorcher. Pic from the video by Andrea Cossu</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13809358994698089902noreply@blogger.com0